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Old 10-17-2010, 08:49 PM   #1
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 13
Power window stuck and fixed

I've been through a lot of threads on power windows. Here's my story.

My 1997 drivers window got stuck in the full up postion. Door handles and console switch had no effect, and window glass would not physically push down one bit. Could not open/close the door without top interference. Passenger window remained fully operational.

Power window fuse OK, as expected since there is only one fuse for both windows.

Took off drivers door panel. (Mirror switch cover - pull out bottom, then lift top corner. Handle cover - pop the bottom, push down hard on top rear, wiggle and hope the internal tab survives. As panel comes off disconnect microswitch, door lock cable and light socket.)

I then ran a felt pen along bottom inside seal and scratch awled regulator feet positions. Removed 4 plugs. Removed glass. Removed regulator/motor assembly. Separated motor from regulator.

Regulator had full tension and drive wheel rotated freely manually. Plugged motor into its 8 pin plug but it did not turn. 8 pins feeding door motor showed various voltages. Switching the console switches had no effect.

This is where many are inclined to replace the motor. At $300 I chose to remove the passenger panel and plug in the driver's motor into the passenger side 8 pin plug. Motor ran.

Took apart the driver's A pillar wiring harness junction block. This finely engineered waterproof 4 piece multiplug assembly released a small cup of long accumulated water. Consequently, a bottom female pin had corroded and separated from its red/grey positive power wire.

Repaired the broken pin and reassembled - window behaving normally.

My repair cost - 10 cents and 6 hours (over several days) versus what might have been a $1000 plus invoice.
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