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Old 10-06-2010, 01:20 PM   #1
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?? Condensation in rear trunk ??

I just wonder if this is a problem or if I am just paranoid.... After driving I see condensation under the trunklid where the coolant tank is. I don't think the coolant tank leaks, everything is dustdry, except this condensation. Normal? Any insight/advice?

Thanks!

Later,
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:15 PM   #2
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Step 1: Remove and reinstall the cap. Tighten the crap out of it.
Step 2: Replace the cap.

There are more solutions available if these two don't work out (search), but mine was solved after Step 1.
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:16 PM   #3
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Did you look below the carpet? May need a new coolant tank cap. What is the part number on your cap? Is the cap tight?
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:09 PM   #4
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Thanks for all your replies!

Cap is tight, carpet is dry, no coolant loss, I watch/check these things closely....

Cap part# is 996.106 447.01

Looks like a new cap to me?
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:31 PM   #5
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You have an old cap. There have been two versions since then to fix that very same problem. Look at the last two numbers...you have an 01. Look at this one; http://www.****************************************************.com/product/99610644703.html?Category_Code=986Cooling

You need a new one, this one fixed my problem.
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:01 AM   #6
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the latest cap version is .04 but generally speaking, the .01 thur .04 designs are very similar. The .00 design was vastly different and very weak (had a rounded inner flange).

If you've already checked under the carpet and barring any other signs of a leak, and if the cap is on tight (the p/n should be a the 6 o'clock position when standing at rear of car) you're in all likely-hood good to go. For the sake of argument though, remove the coolant cap, oil filler cap, and black cover plate below them (it'll pry right up) . Check the coolant tank bleeder valve (a black cap w/ what looks like 1/2 of a binder clip on top) and make sure it's in the down/locked (parallel to the road) position and there isn't any (more than a possible trace) white residue around it. If in doubt, you can have (almost any shop) run a quick pressure test on the cooling system (about 20min).

FWIW, I used to get similar condensation occasionally, depending on climate conditions, w/ my '99 Boxster but never had any issues.


Last edited by Burg Boxster; 10-07-2010 at 04:05 AM.
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:08 AM   #7
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AAAAHHHHH I love this forum, thanks so much for your feedback.

I will check as suggested and report back.

Later,
Andy
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Old 10-09-2010, 04:49 AM   #8
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It looks like a problem with the bleeder valve..... too much residue and fairly wet around that area, valve was/is closed.
I checked after a short drive, seems that the valve isn't holding.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Burg Boxster
the latest cap version is .04 but generally speaking, the .01 thur .04 designs are very similar. The .00 design was vastly different and very weak (had a rounded inner flange).

If you've already checked under the carpet and barring any other signs of a leak, and if the cap is on tight (the p/n should be a the 6 o'clock position when standing at rear of car) you're in all likely-hood good to go. For the sake of argument though, remove the coolant cap, oil filler cap, and black cover plate below them (it'll pry right up) . Check the coolant tank bleeder valve (a black cap w/ what looks like 1/2 of a binder clip on top) and make sure it's in the down/locked (parallel to the road) position and there isn't any (more than a possible trace) white residue around it. If in doubt, you can have (almost any shop) run a quick pressure test on the cooling system (about 20min).

FWIW, I used to get similar condensation occasionally, depending on climate conditions, w/ my '99 Boxster but never had any issues.

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Old 10-09-2010, 06:01 AM   #9
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In that case, you should replace the o-ring seal in the bleeder valve. When retorquing the bleeder valve bolts, don't over tighten them as they screw into plastic.
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Old 10-09-2010, 11:05 AM   #10
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Well, took the top of the bleeder valve off.

First of all, these screws were not really tight, barely handtight.

Everything inside looked totally ok, no rips, dirt or any other damage. I cleaned everything and screwed the top back on.

Judging by the residue and the coolant leaking it seems to me that the top simply wasn't tight enough.

After a short drive it looks like all is ok but I will report back later.
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Old 10-09-2010, 12:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyA6
Well, took the top of the bleeder valve off.

First of all, these screws were not really tight, barely handtight.

Everything inside looked totally ok, no rips, dirt or any other damage. I cleaned everything and screwed the top back on.

Judging by the residue and the coolant leaking it seems to me that the top simply wasn't tight enough.

After a short drive it looks like all is ok but I will report back later.
The bleeder valve comes in two parts. There's the part with the valve on it, and then there's a collar. The screws run through the cap and collar and "bite" into the tank. The collar has two o-rings that seal it to the tank. The're side seal, so screw torque doesn't effect their seal. When mine leaked, it only happened occasionally. If you take off the cap and tug and wiggle at the collar, you can get it off and replace the o-rings.
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:32 PM   #12
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Thanks! Makes perfect sense.

After cleaning / re-installing and another spirited canyon drive it seems to have made a difference, no leak/condensation
I was very careful with those screws, only tightened by hand.


Still keeping an eye on it.

Later,
Andy
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:25 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by AndyA6 View Post
Thanks! Makes perfect sense.

After cleaning / re-installing and another spirited canyon drive it seems to have made a difference, no leak/condensation
I was very careful with those screws, only tightened by hand.


Still keeping an eye on it.

Later,
Andy


OK, after this summer season I am happy to report that there is no more condensation. Dust dry.

I guess the best lesson here is "drive your car!"
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:02 PM   #14
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Here are a couple pics of the o-rings under the bleeder valve.

First remove the bleeder valve screws and take off the top part. The base with the screw holes looks like it's part of the tank but it's actually a separate piece. Take a big pair of channelocks and wiggle it a little, then pull it straight up.

This is what's under the base and where the two o-rings live. It fixed mine for a few months. No condensation but this past summer the tank cracked on the bottom so the parts you see are no longer on my car.
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