Window regulator permanent fix for stretched cable

[Dave S.]

I finally got around to opening up the door panel to install my (hopefully) permanent fix for the problem of too much slack in the window regulator cable. The sympton of my problem was that the window would not drop enough to clear the top when I opened the passenger side door. The window would still roll up and down properly, it just wouldn't drop enough to clear the top. The window had excessive play in the cable system, which could be felt by rolling the window 1/2 way down and then pulling up and down on the glass. The window would easily move at least 1/2 inch up and down. (Update: I used to think it was because the cable stretched, but someone in this thread pointed out that there is a small plastic guide that breaks causing the cable to have excessive slack. - So I now believe this is truly a permament fix if done before the cable frays at the motor.)

I used a $3.00 bicycle brake cable adjustment barrel to take up the slack and add some adjustability to the window regulator system. Hopefully this will be a permanent fix. It was pretty easy to install and did not require the window regulator to be removed from the door.
I had to drill out the front lower corner bracket a small amount and I had to remove the original factory end from the cable housing. All of this was easily doable while installed in the door. This what the final fix looks like:



You may remember my temporary fix from another thread:

[97 Boxster]

Nice DIY. Thanks for the update.

[schoir]

Very, VERY, ingenious!

You should patent this idea!

Thanks for sharing.

Regards, Maurice.

[Dave S.]

I can adjust the tension on the window regulator cable now by simply removing my aftermarket door speaker to gain access. Somebody shoulld send this thread to Porsche. Too bad for everyone that they didn't think of it.

[gschotland]

Interesting idea, though not terribly convenient. Having to screw around with one adjustment in a rain storm after going through a toll both, for example, would really piss me off. Then again, if I couldn't (or refused to) spring for a new regulator I'd probably be figuring out ways to avoid using toll roads and bridges, because everyone know what a gouge they are.

[Dave S.]

Originally Posted by gschotland

Interesting idea, though not terribly convenient. Having to screw around with one adjustment in a rain storm after going through a toll both, for example, would really piss me off. Then again, if I couldn't (or refused to) spring for a new regulator I'd probably be figuring out ways to avoid using toll roads and bridges, because everyone know what a gouge they are.

The window operates perfectly, like new again. I don't expect to ever have to adjust this again, but just in case, it's now a very easy task. I suspect that if the cable stretches more, I'll have to bite the bullet and replace the regulator. It will be interesting to see how permanent the fix really is. For the time being I'm very happy with the way it worked out. Took less than an hour total time to do it, and I got the adjuster barrel for free from a friend who's into bicycles, so not much of an investment.
Oh, and I'm not poor, just frugal ( - and not crazy frugal or I wouldn't own a Boxster in the first place). I thought I'd pass along this tip because of the huge number of these that fail early in the life of our Boxsters - mine had 20,000 miles on it. Why throw away $140-$200 when you don't need to, only to buy the same crappy part that will fail again in 20,000 miles?

[demick]

I think that's a great mod Dave. Very clever and simple. Thanks for posting!

[ppbon]

... stretch.
There's a plastic guide inside the regulator that breaks (with age) and lets the cable have a bit of slack.
That's why people tend to think that the cable has stretched.
I love your inventiveness.
I had done something similar with a ferrule cut to size, but it was not adjustable and it moved a bit.
Thanks for sharing your solution.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Originally Posted by Dave S.

I suspect that if the cable stretches more, I'll have to bite the bullet and replace the regulator.

[sb01box]

Just did the same on the passenger size window. Great DIY
Thanks
this is what I ended up doing.
when the window was up all the way, the slack in the cable was half an inch or more and the cable can be seen. but all the green end pieces were fine. so the pulley grove must be worn.
by removing the hair clip like pin by the motor drive, I was able to take the green end piece off and take the cable out of the pulley using the notch cut out on the pulley fence. (used photo from member bar10dah's entry in this thread)
purchased a bicycle adjuster with 1/4 inch barrel and similar size thread.
filed off roughly 50% of the thread and with light application of Teflon oil, threaded the adjuster into the green piece.
placed the green end (with the adjuster attached) into the window regulator and while compressing the spring by the motor, routed the cable back onto the pulley.
put back the pin by the motor and then adjusted the adjuster.
I did not have to take the regulator out of the door.
cable tie solution seems to be problematic in that the green piece would no longer sit flat onto the housing and on the motor end, would extend the spring-loaded plunger too far out of the cylinder.

[heavyevy]

Maurice,

Nice to know you are still helping 986 owners out. Followed you on Petes forum. My 1998 boxster was in storage for a couple of years. been changing out oil etc. Still have pax window down will not go up switch out drivers with pax switch. No go. 40,000 miles on car now engine lite on changed fuel cap still on.
Can you help out?

[chuckbh]

Thanks DaveS
I just saw your post and I had the same problem with my window. I had a cable adjuster from a bike laying around and I just screwed it into the blue plastic piece and it works GREAT !!! I didn't need to even to adjust it plus I checked the cable tension and it is not too tight and just a little slack.What would we do without the internet?

[Dave S.]

Glad you had the same results I did. Nice to fix for pennies as opposed to hundreds of $$.

Originally Posted by chuckbh

Thanks DaveS
I just saw your post and I had the same problem with my window. I had a cable adjuster from a bike laying around and I just screwed it into the blue plastic piece and it works GREAT !!! I didn't need to even to adjust it plus I checked the cable tension and it is not too tight and just a little slack.What would we do without the internet?

[embryoguy@mac.com]

was it hard to take off the door to access this cable?

[Dave S.]

Not too bad. I followed these instructions:

Boxster Projects | Power Window Motor Repair

[embryoguy@mac.com]

thanks Dave. any else try this mod? i called my local bike shop and going to pick up this brake cable piece tomm. im not very mechanically inclined though i did switch out the ignition switch

yeah my problem also, when opening the door, window does not completely go down so than i push glass down, shut it and it goes up tight.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by Dave S.

Not sure if this is the correct size or not, but it looks like it would work. You need to be sure to get a slotted one, so you can slip it over the cable:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Mountain-Lever-Adjusting-Barrel/dp/B000O5SR4W/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0B8CMN1NZESGVW7VVS13

Success using this piece on my 03 Boxster, but I could have used a bit more thread length. This part gave me just enough window movement for the window to clear.

Originally Posted by Dave S.

Not too bad. I followed these instructions:

Boxster Projects | Power Window Motor Repair

Following this guide I did not know what he was talking about when he says removed the C-shaped piece of plastic. This piece is what he is talking about.

[embryoguy@mac.com]

dave, how did you remove the green fact housing to keep the cable tension? just dremel it off? mine was intact.

[embryoguy@mac.com]

ok i tried it with the zip ties. no diff. the tension was def. a lot tighter but it didnt seem to make a diff. do you guys think i have a diff problem?

[Dave S.]

Originally Posted by embryoguy@mac.com

dave, how did you remove the green fact housing to keep the cable tension? just dremel it off? mine was intact.

The green end of the cable sleeve was intact on mine, but it didn't fit well with the barrel adjuster I was using, so I cut it off. I think I just used a plier-like cable cutter to break it up and get it off the cable.
If it fits into the barrel adjuster you are using, you might want to leave it on there.

[embryoguy@mac.com]

ok i added three zip ties to tighten the cable at the top of the spring. like in chucks original temp. fix. do you guys think this will hold up? will wait for advice before sealing up the door panel. thanks in advance!