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Old 07-23-2010, 05:57 AM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekam
People need to realize Porsches are not Hondas... if stuff breaks even if you fix it yourself, parts will cost you.

I see early model 986 as a $13-15k car... if you paid $9000 to buy it, it probably needs another $4k to fix. If it's $4k then you're probably going to spend more, a lot more to get it close to $13-15k.

Just ask our resident member RandallNeighbour...
Well, then, that makes me not feel all that bad about what I paid for my '97.
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:04 AM   #2
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Personally, if I was buying this kind of car, I would want the overall cost to come in well, WELL under the price of a sound example needing no immediate work, both in terms of having a little leeway in case unexpected costs appear and also because it's a hassle, so you it it to come at a discount. It's the sort of thing that I think rarely adds up but can make sense with models that are fundamentally robust. Boxsters are fragile even when pampered - that's the worry.

If you could pick the car up for a couple of thousand, that leaves you with quite a lot of budget to work with.
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:44 AM   #3
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I'll take a dissenting view from the other writers here and say you should grab it -- especially if you can take the car to a good independent Porsche shop that can tell you what the source of the oil is. And especially if you really like the car. $4400 is a good deal.

I bought a car with some of the same issues [water, brake pad & rotor replacement, top manual-only], and was able to get the repairs done for reasonable cost. Via the internet, you'll learn soon where to find used parts, acceptable aftermarket parts and how to work on the car.

A car is always a pig in a poke. As we read in nearly every thread here, the IMS failure & RMS issues and risks are present in nearly every 986 & 987 that hasn't had an upgrade. So this car is no different. All used cars need regular maintenance and replacement of parts.

The water issue will recur unless you either correct the leak or keep it out of the rain. Can you store the car in a covered place? If not, pick up a car cover on ebay. Also, it's unlikely a heat gun will eliminate the water, due to the thick, heavy foam that traps it under the carpets. The carpet must be removed and dried. Sounds like the computer can be saved, but you must remove that and dry it out. Fortunately in my car the computer was dry.
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:56 AM   #4
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THE CHEAPEST BOXSTER YOU FIND AND BUY WILL BE THE MOST EXPENSIVE CAR YOU HAVE EVER OWNED.

... and your wife or girlfriend or parents and buddies will remind you of this every freaking day.

Save more money and buy a 2003 or newer model S and you will be far happier with your decision.

Last edited by RandallNeighbour; 07-23-2010 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 07-23-2010, 08:59 AM   #5
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Thanks

I really like the car alot but am also very nervous. Its a blast to drive.


I went to start it this morning and it would not turn over or start ....... took heat gun too the electrical box again ........... and was able to get it started and running.

It idled a little rough and the check engine light came on and was blinking/flashing for about 40 seconds and then just stayed illuminated solid.

I just took it too autozone to have them run the codes.

apparently every cylinder 1-6 has a Miss-fire now and a oxygen sensor code also.


Im assuming the electrical box may be beyond saving and is causing the miss-fires and "check engine light too flash and then stay on ........... I dont know for sure.


Im going to see if the guy will take $3k for the car considering a new electrical box will need to be bought ...... for sure I think...... dont want to be left stranded becasue the electrical box issue.


Do these car typically have a sorta high pitch "exhaust note" sound at idle??
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Old 07-23-2010, 09:37 AM   #6
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don't ever buy a Porsche as project car if you don't realize you are buying a project car.

I just spent $6K on major maintenace with a barely any upgrades on my pampered 10 year old Boxsters with 69K miles. And that was with small shop rates and I still have to do the shocks ($2K).
Driving a 10+ year old Porsche will cost you at least $10K. You can pay now or later but you will pay.
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:25 AM   #7
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dirk, let me introduce myself first..my name is Gerry and I don't know much anything about car or about our Boxster except for putting the key to the ignition, drive it and bring to the indy shop that I trust to do all the maintenance work and other stuff..for short, I just drive, put gas and detail it every 6 months or when season change.

with that said...just reading thru all the things you've been finding out in the car, scares me IMHO...I won't touch it, even for $3K but that's me.

listen to Randall and PL..they've got experience about fixing our Boxster on their own pocket.
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:28 AM   #8
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Dirk, it's too painful to read what I know is going to be a nightmare decision on your part. I am going to click the "submit reply" button on this thread comment and then remove myself from the comment tracking on it so I am not forced to relive the ********************-storm of repairs and problems I encountered when I bought a Boxster that was in even better running condition than the one you seem to be working overtime to justify purchasing.

I'm rarely this forward with new forum members, but I just gotta put it out there for what it's worth.
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perfectlap
don't ever buy a Porsche as project car if you don't realize you are buying a project car.

I just spent $6K on major maintenace with a barely any upgrades on my pampered 10 year old Boxsters with 69K miles. And that was with small shop rates and I still have to do the shocks ($2K).
Driving a 10+ year old Porsche will cost you at least $10K. You can pay now or later but you will pay.
How does "doing shocks" equate to $2,000? Buying OEM units and paying to have them installed?
The whole RoW kit can be had for $1,100 at your door.
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:38 PM   #10
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Dirk,

My opinion on this car: view it as a roller parts car. 3K seems to be a good deal for a roller. Drive it until the engine pops. Then sell it for parts. You'll probably break even, and if you are lucky you get several months, perhaps a year, of driving enjoyment out of it. View that as a bonus.

DO NOT put money into it, trying to restore it... you will not get that money back. There is too much wrong with this car to justify fixing things. Don't fix the RMS. Don't install new shocks. Don't retrofit the IMS. Make sure the brakes and seat belts work

Remember, it's a parts car that also happens to run and drive.

Of course, just my opinion.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Fluellen
Dirk,

Make sure the brakes and seat belts work
that just made me laugh out loud.
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