10-14-2009, 06:12 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 726
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How long between oil changes?
my car is a weekend/fun car, not a daily driver.
2000 2.7L.
the last oil change, before I bought the car fromm my dad - was at 70k miles. that was in late 2007.
the car now has about 76000. so it's averaging 3k/year.....
i know the book says I can go 10k between oil changes, but is there any "general" rule that most of you here follow for cars that don't get driven a ton?
do you recommend changin teh oil much sooner, not as soon???
this is my first POrsche, and now that I've put about 6-7k miles on the car, i'm wondering if I should change the oil now, or wait one more year / 3k more miles to do it???
my oil level is fine, and has not needed any added oil since it was last changed...
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Cars:
2007 MDX - Wife's mommy mobile
2006 RL - My daily driver
2000 Boxster - Ocean Blue Base 5spd on Black Full leather. 18" wheels and M030.
Boxster mods I've added: Rear speaker kit, Painted Calipers, Painted Bumperettes, Painted Center Console, 987 Shifter Assembly, 3 Spoke Steering Wheel, Clear side markers, 03+ rear lights, de-snorkeled.
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10-14-2009, 06:21 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 173
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I definitly would change it every year.
I have always done this on my Porsches in the past. If it's a daily driver, do it at least twice a year. Cheap insurance ...
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2002 Boxster S Seal Grey
2010 Ford F150 FX4 Luxury
Retired after 38 years with the same company.
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10-14-2009, 07:00 PM
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#3
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Porsche "Purist"
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,123
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Porsche once specified once a year if driven less than 9500 miles.
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1998 Boxster with 7.8 DME, 2005 3.6 liter/325 hp, Variocam Plus, 996 Instrument panel
2001 Boxster original owner. I installed used motor at 89k.
1987 924S. 2002 996TT. PST-2
Owned and repaired Porsches since 1974. Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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10-14-2009, 07:58 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 218
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I do it at 1 year or 5k miles whichever comes first. There are definitely some things, like oil and brake fuid, that need to be changed on a calendar basis. The owner's manual is pretty good about letting you know which ones those are.
Spark plugs are another one. Porsche says you can run them for 60k miles, but also recommends changing them out after 4 years. That meant I did mine at 20k miles.
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2003 Boxster S
1995 Ferrari F355 Spider
San Francisco, CA
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10-14-2009, 09:16 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 247
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You should change it more often than you are. Its not just mileage that you have to keep an eye on, but time. A byproduct of combustion is acid and it sits in the oil along with fuel residue, carbon, etc. Its not good for the engine parts to sit in this for prolonged amounts of time. If you only do 3k a year, change it every year or so.
Its also an excuse to drink beer and work on the car.
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10-14-2009, 09:34 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 526
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I change mine every year before I put it away for the winter(1yr or 5k miles). Throw porsche's recommendation out the window. $60 DIY oil change per year is a cheap alternative to a new engine!!! I use catro syntec 10w40 and napa gold filter. If your too lazy to change it once a year, buy a HONDA!/!(no offense, but seriously change it once a year)!!
Last edited by mptoledo; 10-14-2009 at 09:39 PM.
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10-14-2009, 10:08 PM
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#7
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Engine Surgeon
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Cleveland GA USA
Posts: 2,425
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Three times a year or 5K miles..
Extended oil service intervals are what kills hydraulic lifters, hydraulic chain tensioners and timing chain wear pads!
Purging contaminated lubricant is the key to so many aspects of the M96 engine.
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10-15-2009, 06:37 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 726
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Mechanic said 150 to change oil. I believe they use mobile 1. If I do it myself, sounds like it's not that hard. I don't have a lift or oil drain pan , but have floor jack and jack stands. I can do it I'm sure, just need time to do it and then dump my oil. Where do most of u take the oil to get rid of it? Will parts storesor oil change places take it for a fee?
I'll change the oil! Thanks for the advice!
__________________
_____________________________
Cars:
2007 MDX - Wife's mommy mobile
2006 RL - My daily driver
2000 Boxster - Ocean Blue Base 5spd on Black Full leather. 18" wheels and M030.
Boxster mods I've added: Rear speaker kit, Painted Calipers, Painted Bumperettes, Painted Center Console, 987 Shifter Assembly, 3 Spoke Steering Wheel, Clear side markers, 03+ rear lights, de-snorkeled.
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10-15-2009, 06:47 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby
Three times a year or 5K miles..
Extended oil service intervals are what kills hydraulic lifters, hydraulic chain tensioners and timing chain wear pads!
Purging contaminated lubricant is the key to so many aspects of the M96 engine.
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I would go with Jake on this one. He does the autopsy on many engines.
I do think if one uses Red Line or Amsoil top of the line, you could extend that just a bit.
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Rich Belloff
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10-15-2009, 06:48 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 23109VC
Mechanic said 150 to change oil. I believe they use mobile 1. If I do it myself, sounds like it's not that hard. I don't have a lift or oil drain pan , but have floor jack and jack stands. I can do it I'm sure, just need time to do it and then dump my oil. Where do most of u take the oil to get rid of it? Will parts storesor oil change places take it for a fee?
I'll change the oil! Thanks for the advice!
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These days, just about everyone that sells oil has a recycling program; ask the store that sells you the oil. Second bet would be local repair shops that will often take it free of charge........
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10-15-2009, 09:38 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sanford NC
Posts: 2,533
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Why 3 times a year
I doubt I put 2k a year on my car, always 12 miles or more after start up before I stop so the needle does show 180. Never taken out when temps below 40F.
What is the science behind the 3 times a year recommendation?
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10-15-2009, 11:01 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefocke
What is the science behind the 3 times a year recommendation?
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More than likely, the fact that so many M96 owners continue to run 0W-40 Mobil 1; so the less time it is in there, the better the chance it has not totally crapped out yet………..
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10-15-2009, 11:42 AM
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#14
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Engine Surgeon
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Cleveland GA USA
Posts: 2,425
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I knew I never should have tried to offer an opinion. Thanks for reminding me that I should keep my mouth shut totally on this topic.
But changing the oil would not have kept this failure from happening.. The piston exploded at 70 MPH on the freeway.. Female driver..
We just took this one apart an hour ago. Mofde of failure #21
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10-15-2009, 02:20 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 1,675
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My, that isn't pretty. What would cause the piston to explode like that? As you say, oil wasn't the issue here, but frequent changes can help with the other 20 modes of failure.
I'm starting to save up for my IMS bearing replacement...
__________________
JGM
2002 Boxster S
1973 911 Green FrankenMeanie
PCA DE Instructor circa '95
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10-15-2009, 02:40 PM
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#16
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Engine Surgeon
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Cleveland GA USA
Posts: 2,425
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Component failure plain and simple.
This car was owned by a Female from day one, she never tracked it and it only has 40K miles on it.. You can see how slow she has driven it in the carbon thats built up on the pistons/ etc.
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10-15-2009, 03:02 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 726
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maybe i'll give this one a shot as a DIY. I have done brake pads/rotors on my own cars before, as well as suspension (shocks/springs). I'm no mechanic, but I can bolt/unbolt stuff and am not afraid to get dirty.
for me, it's the PITA / time factor. if it costs me $50 to do it myself and $250 to pay someone, and it takes me on ehour....i'd rather do it myself. if it costs me $50 to do ti myself, $100 to pay someone to do it, and it will take two hours and be a nasty dirty job, I'd rather fork over the $50 for some other person to get all dirty.
this job sounds like it's not too hard. i can do it myself in my garage. i just need that drain pain and the right tool to pull the drain plug out.
__________________
_____________________________
Cars:
2007 MDX - Wife's mommy mobile
2006 RL - My daily driver
2000 Boxster - Ocean Blue Base 5spd on Black Full leather. 18" wheels and M030.
Boxster mods I've added: Rear speaker kit, Painted Calipers, Painted Bumperettes, Painted Center Console, 987 Shifter Assembly, 3 Spoke Steering Wheel, Clear side markers, 03+ rear lights, de-snorkeled.
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10-15-2009, 03:29 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,997
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Just don't do what I did the first time. I got, I'm pretty sure, the exact same drain pan that mptoledo linked. It's got one hole in the center to catch and drain the old oil. When removing the drain plug (which was still hot), I managed to drop it and, of course, it went into that one and only hole.
Ended up with a pool of used motor oil roughly 6' in diameter on the driveway. It was a terrifically fun clean-up, sarcasm intended. Afterwards, got my electric drill and put on the biggest bit I had (1/2") and drilled about 8 holes in the top, around the center hole. Predictably, I've never dropped the plug into the center hole since.
I still (and would recommend to others) put down newspaper below and around the catch pan. When the oil comes out, it often hits the top of the pan (the part I drilled the holes in) and sends out this wave of used motor oil beyond the outer perimeter of the drain pan. Last time I didn't get a drop on the driveway, though I make no guarantees I'll always be able to achieve that.
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10-15-2009, 03:35 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby
Component failure plain and simple.
This car was owned by a Female from day one, she never tracked it and it only has 40K miles on it.. You can see how slow she has driven it in the carbon thats built up on the pistons/ etc.
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Jake, probably a dumb (or at least naive) question: Do you think there's a relationship between the carbon build-up and the failure of the piston? Worded differently, had this car been driven harder, would it have been less likely to experience such a failure? Or was it doomed to fail, sooner or later, the minute it was driven out of the dealership with a couple dozen miles on it?
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10-15-2009, 09:42 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 247
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There's nothing wrong with that motor.
That's the Porsche-Engineered "Inter-Cylinder Pressure Relief Air/Oil/Piston Separator" ™!!
It reduces crankcase pressure between cylinders and allows decreased rotational mass at higher RPM's.
HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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