Oil Change twice yearly? With Low Mileage

[mptoledo]

3 months sounds rediculous. Heck you might wear out the threads on your oil pan plug. Once a year or no more than 7500 miles(what ever comes first). If you do it every 3 months I am calling al gore on you!!

Here is the question, Do you change it before or after winter(in cold climates)?

[Flavor 987S]

Boxster33:

Congrats on the new car!

Once a year oil change is fine, just before winter hibernation. FYI- there are some great old threads here about winter storage. Search them out.

Good decision on the Motul oil. Porsche approved and high quality. You may also consider Mobil 1's 5W50. This is a very hard oil to find in the USA, but you guys are lucky in Canada because I have seen it in your Wal Mart stores. This is the only Porsche approved 5W50 weight oil.

If you can continue to purchase fuel without alcohol, that would be my choice too. Even 91 octane over 93. I use to be able to buy 93 octane without alcohol in small towns in Wisconsin last year. But no more. Federal regulations mandate the addition (up to 10%) ethanol for "clean air requirements". This use to be a big city issue, so small towns still have 100% gas. Now everyone has to use the blends. Too bad, the Boxster loved the 93 with 100% gas!

[Bladecutter]

Originally Posted by mptoledo

Here is the question, Do you change it before or after winter(in cold climates)?

It should always be changed right before being stored, so it would be done in the winter. There's no need to change it again in the spring, simply from the fact that the new oil poured in has 100% of its acid neutralizing properties, and since there isn't any combustion events occurring when the engine isn't running, the oil isn't having any new acids being produced to cope with.

Basically, the last drive in the winter should look like this:

Take car to shop and have oil change performed.
Drive car home.
Put car in garage.
Pop hood, and hook up the battery tender.
Turn out lights, and lock garage.

BC.

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by Bladecutter

It should always be changed right before being stored, so it would be done in the winter. There's no need to change it again in the spring, simply from the fact that the new oil poured in has 100% of its acid neutralizing properties, and since there isn't any combustion events occurring when the engine isn't running, the oil isn't having any new acids being produced to cope with.

Basically, the last drive in the winter should look like this:

Take car to shop and have oil change performed.
Drive car home.
Put car in garage.
Pop hood, and hook up the battery tender.
Turn out lights, and lock garage.

BC.

With an internal battery, like the Boxster, I prefer to pull the battery from the car.

The Boxster uses a vent tube to vent away any accumulated Hydrogen or Oxygen gas. There can also be minute amounts of sulphuric acid in this vapor as well. Normally, the air rushing past the open end of the vent tube creates negative pressure (vacuum) pulling these gasses out of the tube and away to the atmosphere.

But, when the car is not running, no air is rushing past the vent tube and so no gasses are extracted and can buildup to the point, over a several month storage peiod, where they accumulate under the hood. The Hydrogen and Oxygen pose a fire and explosion risk, but the sulphuric acid can condense on cold metal parts (hood, firewall, electronics, etc.) and can lead to corrosion - rust. Also, the battery maintains it health better in a warmer environment than in the cold car.

The downside, besides actually having to disconnect and carry the battery away, is that the DME, Tiptronic Control Module (if equipped) and Radio lose their memory functions (and security code in the case of the radio - pre-'03) and will have to re-learn once the car is put back into service. But, this is a minor inconvenience and these things re-learn after just a couple drive cycles.

[mptoledo]

Originally Posted by Lil bastard

With an internal battery, like the Boxster, I prefer to pull the battery from the car.

The Boxster uses a vent tube to vent away any accumulated Hydrogen or Oxygen gas. There can also be minute amounts of sulphuric acid in this vapor as well. Normally, the air rushing past the open end of the vent tube creates negative pressure (vacuum) pulling these gasses out of the tube and away to the atmosphere.

But, when the car is not running, no air is rushing past the vent tube and so no gasses are extracted and can buildup to the point, over a several month storage peiod, where they accumulate under the hood. The Hydrogen and Oxygen pose a fire and explosion risk, but the sulphuric acid can condense on cold metal parts (hood, firewall, electronics, etc.) and can lead to corrosion - rust. Also, the battery maintains it health better in a warmer environment than in the cold car.

The downside, besides actually having to disconnect and carry the battery away, is that the DME, Tiptronic Control Module (if equipped) and Radio lose their memory functions (and security code in the case of the radio - pre-'03) and will have to re-learn once the car is put back into service. But, this is a minor inconvenience and these things re-learn after just a couple drive cycles.

I am considering the optima battery. This wouldn't be a concern with a sealed battery would it(gas issues not dme)?

RE OIL CHANGE: Before winter was what I was thinking but I needed to hear it for a definate answer. Thanks Guys!!

[vath2001]

Originally Posted by Bladecutter

Basically, the last drive in the winter should look like this:

Take car to shop and have oil change performed.
Drive car home.
Put car in garage.
Pop hood, and hook up the battery tender.
Turn out lights, and lock garage.

BC.

You missed the part about running the tires up to 50 psi+, throwing on the car cover and having a cold one.

And I normally need to pull out the snow blower, clean the plug and get it started.

[Flavor 987S]

Originally Posted by vath2001

You missed the part about running the tires up to 50 psi+,

The owner's manual states 58 PSI.

[Samson]

So you guys actually store your cars over the winter? As in you don't drive it for a few months? I live in an area with a typical midwest winter of snow, ice, and negative degrees, but when a dry day comes along...

Anyway, Porsche says 15,000 miles or one year on the changes, if I recall correctly. I've yet to drive my Boxster 15,000 miles in a year, so I just stick to annual changes of Syntec 5w40. Only done two, and they have both been in the spring. Changing the oil before storage is a probably good idea if your storage period is longer than a month or so. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it. What I'd do instead is drive it more often.

[vath2001]

Originally Posted by Flavor 987S

The owner's manual states 58 PSI.

I know the manual states 58.... I get a little quesy about running car tires up that far. Bicycle tires: no problem.

And Samson, yes I store it over the winter. When I get more than 4 inches in the drive, its kinda hard to pull out... even harder to get back in.

[Samson]

Originally Posted by vath2001

I know the manual states 58.... I get a little quesy about running car tires up that far. Bicycle tires: no problem.

And Samson, yes I store it over the winter. When I get more than 4 inches in the drive, its kinda hard to pull out... even harder to get back in.

I'm with you on not driving in the snow - the SP Sport Maxx isn't exactly a snow tire. If/when I drop my other cars and have the Boxster as my DD, then it will most definitely wear some winter rubber. I'm talking about those random 30-40 degree sunny (or cloudy) days when the roads are clear and dry...

Jake - do you have any more detailed information on why you recommend 3 month intervals? Not saying that Porsche is always right (obviously...), but why such a dramatic change? Why do these engines differ from cars where 6-8 month intervals have no tangible negative effects on anything?

[Flavor 987S]

Originally Posted by vath2001

I know the manual states 58.... I get a little quesy about running car tires up that far.

Don't be quesy, Vath. Every October, the past 3 years, I drive about 1 mile away and over fill my 19" PS2's with 60 PSI (2 PSI extra since I figure I'll lose that much by Dec/Jan's bitter cold) of Nitrogen (no nitro wars please!).

I gingerly drive home, and even cross railroad tracks, and then park in the garage on top of dense rubber matts, like you'd find in a healthclub weightroom. No problems and never had a flatspot when taking the car out in March/April.

My car sits for +5 months, on the battery maintainer, never started, in a slightly heated garage.