Oil Change twice yearly? With Low Mileage

[Bladecutter]

Originally Posted by mptoledo

Here is the question, Do you change it before or after winter(in cold climates)?

It should always be changed right before being stored, so it would be done in the winter. There's no need to change it again in the spring, simply from the fact that the new oil poured in has 100% of its acid neutralizing properties, and since there isn't any combustion events occurring when the engine isn't running, the oil isn't having any new acids being produced to cope with.

Basically, the last drive in the winter should look like this:

Take car to shop and have oil change performed.
Drive car home.
Put car in garage.
Pop hood, and hook up the battery tender.
Turn out lights, and lock garage.

BC.

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by Bladecutter

It should always be changed right before being stored, so it would be done in the winter. There's no need to change it again in the spring, simply from the fact that the new oil poured in has 100% of its acid neutralizing properties, and since there isn't any combustion events occurring when the engine isn't running, the oil isn't having any new acids being produced to cope with.

Basically, the last drive in the winter should look like this:

Take car to shop and have oil change performed.
Drive car home.
Put car in garage.
Pop hood, and hook up the battery tender.
Turn out lights, and lock garage.

BC.

With an internal battery, like the Boxster, I prefer to pull the battery from the car.

The Boxster uses a vent tube to vent away any accumulated Hydrogen or Oxygen gas. There can also be minute amounts of sulphuric acid in this vapor as well. Normally, the air rushing past the open end of the vent tube creates negative pressure (vacuum) pulling these gasses out of the tube and away to the atmosphere.

But, when the car is not running, no air is rushing past the vent tube and so no gasses are extracted and can buildup to the point, over a several month storage peiod, where they accumulate under the hood. The Hydrogen and Oxygen pose a fire and explosion risk, but the sulphuric acid can condense on cold metal parts (hood, firewall, electronics, etc.) and can lead to corrosion - rust. Also, the battery maintains it health better in a warmer environment than in the cold car.

The downside, besides actually having to disconnect and carry the battery away, is that the DME, Tiptronic Control Module (if equipped) and Radio lose their memory functions (and security code in the case of the radio - pre-'03) and will have to re-learn once the car is put back into service. But, this is a minor inconvenience and these things re-learn after just a couple drive cycles.

[mptoledo]

Originally Posted by Lil bastard

With an internal battery, like the Boxster, I prefer to pull the battery from the car.

The Boxster uses a vent tube to vent away any accumulated Hydrogen or Oxygen gas. There can also be minute amounts of sulphuric acid in this vapor as well. Normally, the air rushing past the open end of the vent tube creates negative pressure (vacuum) pulling these gasses out of the tube and away to the atmosphere.

But, when the car is not running, no air is rushing past the vent tube and so no gasses are extracted and can buildup to the point, over a several month storage peiod, where they accumulate under the hood. The Hydrogen and Oxygen pose a fire and explosion risk, but the sulphuric acid can condense on cold metal parts (hood, firewall, electronics, etc.) and can lead to corrosion - rust. Also, the battery maintains it health better in a warmer environment than in the cold car.

The downside, besides actually having to disconnect and carry the battery away, is that the DME, Tiptronic Control Module (if equipped) and Radio lose their memory functions (and security code in the case of the radio - pre-'03) and will have to re-learn once the car is put back into service. But, this is a minor inconvenience and these things re-learn after just a couple drive cycles.

I am considering the optima battery. This wouldn't be a concern with a sealed battery would it(gas issues not dme)?

RE OIL CHANGE: Before winter was what I was thinking but I needed to hear it for a definate answer. Thanks Guys!!

[vath2001]

Originally Posted by Bladecutter

Basically, the last drive in the winter should look like this:

Take car to shop and have oil change performed.
Drive car home.
Put car in garage.
Pop hood, and hook up the battery tender.
Turn out lights, and lock garage.

BC.

You missed the part about running the tires up to 50 psi+, throwing on the car cover and having a cold one.

And I normally need to pull out the snow blower, clean the plug and get it started.

[Flavor 987S]

Originally Posted by vath2001

You missed the part about running the tires up to 50 psi+,

The owner's manual states 58 PSI.

[Samson]

So you guys actually store your cars over the winter? As in you don't drive it for a few months? I live in an area with a typical midwest winter of snow, ice, and negative degrees, but when a dry day comes along...

Anyway, Porsche says 15,000 miles or one year on the changes, if I recall correctly. I've yet to drive my Boxster 15,000 miles in a year, so I just stick to annual changes of Syntec 5w40. Only done two, and they have both been in the spring. Changing the oil before storage is a probably good idea if your storage period is longer than a month or so. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it. What I'd do instead is drive it more often.

[Jake Raby]

For my updated engines I require oil services every 5K miles or every 3 months. Fuel and coolant intrusion into the lubricant has negative effects on these engines, even if they don't see much service time.

[vath2001]

Originally Posted by Flavor 987S

The owner's manual states 58 PSI.

I know the manual states 58.... I get a little quesy about running car tires up that far. Bicycle tires: no problem.

And Samson, yes I store it over the winter. When I get more than 4 inches in the drive, its kinda hard to pull out... even harder to get back in.

[Samson]

Originally Posted by vath2001

I know the manual states 58.... I get a little quesy about running car tires up that far. Bicycle tires: no problem.

And Samson, yes I store it over the winter. When I get more than 4 inches in the drive, its kinda hard to pull out... even harder to get back in.

I'm with you on not driving in the snow - the SP Sport Maxx isn't exactly a snow tire. If/when I drop my other cars and have the Boxster as my DD, then it will most definitely wear some winter rubber. I'm talking about those random 30-40 degree sunny (or cloudy) days when the roads are clear and dry...

Jake - do you have any more detailed information on why you recommend 3 month intervals? Not saying that Porsche is always right (obviously...), but why such a dramatic change? Why do these engines differ from cars where 6-8 month intervals have no tangible negative effects on anything?

[Flavor 987S]

Originally Posted by vath2001

I know the manual states 58.... I get a little quesy about running car tires up that far.

Don't be quesy, Vath. Every October, the past 3 years, I drive about 1 mile away and over fill my 19" PS2's with 60 PSI (2 PSI extra since I figure I'll lose that much by Dec/Jan's bitter cold) of Nitrogen (no nitro wars please!).

I gingerly drive home, and even cross railroad tracks, and then park in the garage on top of dense rubber matts, like you'd find in a healthclub weightroom. No problems and never had a flatspot when taking the car out in March/April.

My car sits for +5 months, on the battery maintainer, never started, in a slightly heated garage.

[mptoledo]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

For my updated engines I require oil services every 5K miles or every 3 months. Fuel and coolant intrusion into the lubricant has negative effects on these engines, even if they don't see much service time.

OK, Mptoledo is scratching his head???

Is that for the break in period or are you talking your permanent maint schedule? I get the 5k miles for an oil change, but i don't quite get the 4 times a year. I will store mine for 4 to 5 months out of the year so that would be about 2 times a year which "might" equate to 10k miles(more like 6k of non track, joy riding/road trippin). Is that for a special kind of oil?

[Boxster33]

Thanks everyone for your replies. I will probably just change the oil once a year right before storage. Jake's response about changing every 3 months worries me since he is the Boxster engine guru :dance: . He did mention his updated engines, not sure if it applies to the original engine.

[Boxster33]

Steve Tinker:
I live in Toronto, Canada and gas usally comes in 87 Regular, 89 Medium, 91 Premium. Only Sunoco has higher (Gold 94) but contains 10% Ethanal (This is what I was previously using). I know the preferred Octane level for the Boxster is 93 but the car is running great with the Shell 91.

[mikefocke]

I know you do oil analysis so help us understand the basis of this interval.

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by mikefocke

I know you do oil analysis so help us understand the basis of this interval.

It is impossible to "Over service" an engine...

The more we see lifters that are filled with crud and worn variocam components from low mileage engines, the more frequently the oil services seem to be necessary.

The ring tension of the M96 is very low, this makes for fuel intrusion into the oil and that fuel is not lubricant, its a solvent..

Anyone can see how I have come to these conclusions.. Do the oil services at different times and compare the used oil analysis.

[orange260z]

I live in Ottawa, Canada. I drive the car from April to November putting on 5-10,000kms, and change the oil & filter immediately before storing the car (once a year).

I typically use Ultramar 91 octane or Sunoco 91 octane fuel. Is Shell 91 supposed to be any better?

Thanks,
Ayan

[Paul]

Very compelling post, Paul - thanks for sharing that. You live in a cool climate, and service and drive your car regularly, which has kept the acid levels down, and your chemicals "in suspension".

The only argument against changing it more often is the extra 80 bucks it costs...which for me, isn't a good enough reason. (no need to call Al Gore, Pep Boys loves my used oil). If it were any other engine, any other car, I might be inclined to extend it, but having had two engine failures in less than 80k miles I'm more than happy to spend the money and take the time to change it. Maybe not for everyone, but it works for me.

[JFP in PA]

One major flaw in the argument: We run Castrol Syntec 10W-40 oil in our customer’s cars, and collect UOA’s to determine the correct change interval. The exact same oil in one car had a TBN of 6 after 8,000 miles; another had a TBN of 3 after 5,000 miles……….. How the car is driven matters (and varies) more than most think, and can significantly shorten the oil’s expected life; so basing your oil change interval on someone else’s UOA is wishful thinking at best. If you do not have data on your car, change the oil more frequently, no more than 5-6 K miles…….………

[Brucelee]

What is this WINTER you speak of???