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Old 08-17-2009, 04:32 PM   #1
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Oil filler tube DIY?

anyone on here change out their oil filler tube? if so any DIY's, I've tried searching but no luck. Thanks in advance..

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Old 08-17-2009, 04:51 PM   #2
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now why would you want to do that?
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Old 08-17-2009, 05:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluelagoon
now why would you want to do that?
Because they crack, and an oil leak ensues.
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:47 AM   #4
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I am also planning on swapping out my oil filler tube this weekend, any advice from those that have been there, done that, thanks,

Ed

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Old 09-22-2009, 10:35 AM   #5
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+1 on the info - would love to know how others have done this~
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Old 09-22-2009, 11:06 AM   #6
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Hi, Here you go kill 2 birds with 1 stone.


1. take out the carpeting and boards on the bottom of the trunk... the carpets are held in place by simple plastic fasteners. make sure to disconnect the trunk light before tearing out the carpet.

2. open the engine bay per the manual instructions.

3. drain the coolant in the reservoir tank. if you dont have a fancy machine to do this, you can use my ghetto method. i used two 1/8inch siphon hoses... take the longer hose and run it from the tank to a bucket on the ground and then place the smaller piece in the tank as well, and take a rag and cover the tank hole so that its realtively air tight with the two hose coming out... then take a bicycle pump and attach it the end of the smaller hose and start pumping really fast to blow air into the tank... this will force the coolant out in the longer line until it feeds into the bucket.. then you can stop pumping and take the rag out and let the tank drain.

4. take the plastic shield covering the top of the reservoir unit off. then you need to loosen the oil add unit by turning the plastic o-ring that attaches it to the reservoir counterclockwise. the ring should slide right off. you can also take the oil dipstick out and disconnect the oil dipstick tube from the unit as well.

5. start disconnecting the coolant hoses in the trunk. there are three hoses that run from the back of the trunk to the reservoir tank... disconnect the hoses from the reservoir making sure not to damage them at all... have a towel handy to catch any coolant that spills. also be sure to mark the hoses in case you forget where they run to.

6. loosen the bolts that hold the reservoir in place... there should be 4 10MM bolts. one at the top in the add fill area, one at the base of the trunk and two at the back of the trunk mated to that black plastic piece.

7. disconnect the coolant temperature sending unit beneath the reservoir and turn it counter clockwise to remove the actual unit.. be sure not to damage this piece.

8. now comes the hard part... working from the top of the car, find the big plastic tube that carries the oil from the oil fill to the engine.. mine was covered with a mesh sleeve but you can just trace the oil fill tube from the back of the trunk to the engine. unclamp the tube in the engine bay and disconnect the tube and move it aside.
9. there is a coolant hose adjacent to the oil fill tube in the engine bay. its a smaller hose, about 1/4 inch thick... if you trace it back to the rear trunk, youll find that this hose is the #1 hose, if youre counting from top to bottom. (there are three visible hoses in the rear trunk at this time, #1 is the hose im referring to and it runs to the engine, #2 runs to the radiators, and #3 is the boil-over hose that runs down the car by the right rear. the #4th hose (unvisible at this moment) runs from the radiator to the tank as well, its the main coolant line.)

10. after disconnecting hose #1, move it aside. now comes the really tricky part. you need to disconnect hoses #2 and #3 from inside the engine bay. move whatever hoses and lines are necessary to unclamp those pesky fasteners... its sounds simple, but given the limited working space this becomes your major task for the day... the clamps are on tight and this step requires lots of patience and pep talking to yourself that you can do it. hahaha... once you get those clamps loosened, youre home free. again be careful to note, which hoses run where so when you reinstall, everything will be fine.
11. the boil over line may be secured to hose #3 or #4 with zip ties to help guide it to the bottom of the car. unclip those zip ties to loosen the hose completly, to help provide some slack... slack is the key word here, as youll need to develop sufficent slack to help pull the reservoir free, in order to remove the oil fill tube from the reservoir end and the boil over tube.

12. by this point, all the necessary clamps have been unfastened and all you need to do is pull the unit out.. have an assistant tug on the reservoir unit while you work in the engine bay to unsecure hoses #3 and #4... with your assistant pulling the you twisting the hoses from inside, they should come off nice and gently without too much resistance.

13. at this point, you should have the reservoir half out, and the only thing connecting it is the oil fill tube and the boil over hose... remove those from the reservoir unit at this time. the oil fill tube requires a nice strong pull. after those are out, voila, you are practically done!!

14. installation is basically in reverse order.. some things to note are, the oil fill tube should have a cut off square at one end, indicating that this should be placed to the reservoir facing downwards.. this is important as the oil fill tube is not bendable. connect the boil over hose and oil fill tube and guide all the hoses back to their happy homes and resecure them tightly in place... reclamping hoses #3 and #4 are again your most daunting task... i was able to get all the clamps back to their orginal place except for hose #4. for this hose i clamped it down with a tradionial screw type clamp and made sure it was tight tight tight... screw clamps are so much easier to work with i think.. this clamp was a spare part from my old BMW.. so my porsche is officially not 100% porsche anymore.. theres one BMW part in there... oh well... after checking and rechecking that all hoses have been reconnected and are secure and back in original position, youre ready to put the new coolant in. put coolant in and run the engine and bleed the system and check for leaks.

there you have it...
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:44 PM   #7
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Thanks Franco,

Ed

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Old 09-23-2009, 09:51 AM   #8
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Semi-hijack?: I read on another thread that something rubbing on the bottom of the tube can cause it to wear and crack prematurely. Question: can the bottom of the tube be seen from above or does the car have to be jacked up and the tube bottom seen from below?

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