06-30-2009, 12:35 PM
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#1
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Guest
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour
That explains a lot. Bill, the 987's no longer have a real temp gauge. It will rise to the right spot before the motor is truly up to temp and only climb when the computer says it should so you will pull over and get the motor looked at. It's now like the crappy ones found in American cars. If the car's not overheating, that needle in your 987 will not show any fluctuation at all.
Mark and I have checked this out on his 987 at the track when he's been absolutely brutal to the motor on the track and that needle should have moved a little and it does not move past the operating temp reading it is programmed to display.
The 986's have a temp gauge that moves around when you drive the car, hence all the guys freaking out because they've never owned a car with a fully operational temp gauge before.
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Randall, how is Mark doing?
My needle moves for sure, just not much once the engine warms up. And the engine bay fan will cycle on or off as needed, as does the multi speed fans up front.
I am surprised dealerships don't recommend this service to pry an extra $1,000 out of our pockets at say a 60K service.
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06-30-2009, 02:35 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,243
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Bill, Mark's doing fine. He's at the track every time the PCA opens it up for a HSDE. Some of the time he volunteers as a corner worker to get free entry on the next registration.
I gotta do that next to save $225.
Mark's needle moves up to "normal operating temp" rather quickly (actually TOO quickly if you ask Mark.) Then it sits right there no matter how the car is driven or operated... roll it down a hill in neutral with the AC off, turn the AC on full and sit in park, drive the piss out of it on a track, and that needle doesn't move unless the motor is overheating and then it shoots to the right and turns on the dummy light.
I too am quite surprised that dealerships don't offer this service. Lord knows they could make a pile of cash doing it.
My mechanic has told me more than once that I should take my house vac's crevice tool and tape it to the tube of my high powered shop vac and suck all the debris out of the front radiator through the grills from time to time. He's never recommended removing the bumper and separating the radiators though.
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06-30-2009, 02:44 PM
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#3
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Guest
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour
My mechanic has told me more than once that I should take my house vac's crevice tool and tape it to the tube of my high powered shop vac and suck all the debris out of the front radiator through the grills from time to time. He's never recommended removing the bumper and separating the radiators though.
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Yes, I have done this. Easy to do. Not much came out though. Leaf blower still worked better.
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06-30-2009, 03:44 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 730
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour
I too am quite surprised that dealerships don't offer this service. Lord knows they could make a pile of cash doing it.
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When I was but a newb, Park Place in Dallas said the radiators needed to be cleaned of debris at a price of $400 IIRC. It was suggested as annual maintenance.
__________________
2003 Boxster - Sold but not forgotten
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07-02-2009, 07:20 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Unionville, CT
Posts: 442
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There is some really good info here plus pics and vid. I had to replace a radiator last year, so I learned all this stuff then.
My advice....
- Have assistance when putting the bumper back on. It's a lot of lining up to do alone, and those rubbery intakes on the air scoops can be difficult to line up with the grill inserts.
- Do this job if it's been too many yrs to remember or you bought a 5-10 yr old car.
- Don't bother with this project if it's only 2-4 yrs, unless you have been experiencing cooling system problems.
- While you're in there it's a good time to consider rerouting the cable release for your trunk to the tow bolt hole area so it can be scagged easily by removing the snap on hole plug.
Question..........how are you guys cleaning this area with a leaf blower??? Sounds like a good alternative to use on a regular basis.
Personally, I've made a vac nozzle out of a piece of 1/2" copper tubing wrapped with duct tape that can easily reach the recesses through the grills. Cheap and handy.
Bob
__________________
2001 Boxster, GT3 console delete, lower stress bar, RoW M030 suspension package, painted bumperettes.
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07-13-2009, 02:25 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Use 2B NW Ohio, now NE Ohio
Posts: 563
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Clean Rads
Just got done cleaning the radiators. The UTube videos is really helpful. The shop vac did the job.
Here's a pic of the debris before.
__________________
My Porsche mechanic drives a Saturn.
'98 Artic Silver w/ Tip
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10-13-2009, 05:16 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 916
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I am going to clean my radiators in the next week or two. Very interested to see what is in there. They have not been cleaned for 9 years and 90K. When I have the bumper off I want to remove the grills and paint them as they have faded. Any advice for preping the grills for painting them black, type of paint to use or such would be appreciated,
Ed
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My Car Webpage
2000 2.7L Boxster 102K; TTP intake, headers, high-flow cats; Dansk high-flow muffler; Autothority ECU chip; TechnoTorque 2; Bilstein coilovers; Racing Dynamics strut brace; stress-bar suspension kit; Aasco lightweight flywheel, B&M short shiftkit; 18" wheels; spare tire delete; OEM GT3 seats; JL audio speakers and subwoofer; Alpine PDX-5/PDX-2 amps; Kenwood DNX8120 CD/DVD/Nav; litronics, deambered
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10-13-2009, 06:27 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Unionville, CT
Posts: 442
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by edevlin
I am going to clean my radiators in the next week or two. Very interested to see what is in there. They have not been cleaned for 9 years and 90K. When I have the bumper off I want to remove the grills and paint them as they have faded. Any advice for preping the grills for painting them black, type of paint to use or such would be appreciated,
Ed

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Be sure to get in between the AC and coolant radiators to do a complete cleaning.
Re painting, you can get real fancy, but no need to. Use a scotchbright type pad to roughen them and remove loose paint, and go to a home improvement store and look for spray that is designed for plastic without prime or further prep. I recommend a satin gloss. I forget the brand name that I used but it's a popular name. Easy to do and works well.
__________________
2001 Boxster, GT3 console delete, lower stress bar, RoW M030 suspension package, painted bumperettes.
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10-13-2009, 07:06 PM
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#9
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Porsche "Purist"
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,123
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Before painting them, try Vinylex, you may change your mind.
http://www.vinylexprotectant.com/
__________________
1998 Boxster with 7.8 DME, 2005 3.6 liter/325 hp, Variocam Plus, 996 Instrument panel
2001 Boxster original owner. I installed used motor at 89k.
1987 924S. 2002 996TT. PST-2
Owned and repaired Porsches since 1974. Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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