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Old 11-30-2008, 06:05 PM   #1
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Recall on Coolant caps

Just a heads up. Porsche issued a recall on coolant caps. I went through 3 of them and they were all defective. I received the newest one that was fixed and it works.

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Old 11-30-2008, 07:32 PM   #2
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A little more detail please.
Do you mean there is a new part number and the caps have been updated or just a bad run of caps?
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Old 11-30-2008, 07:46 PM   #3
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The caps should end in 03. But there was a bad batch as well with caps ending in 03. I f you care having problems buy a new one and make sure they sell you the newest ones otherwise you will be in the same place
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Old 11-30-2008, 07:48 PM   #4
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Recall usually means you bring in your car and get a new cap, no charge. Is this true? I'm calling my dealership in the morning to confirm.
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Old 11-30-2008, 08:00 PM   #5
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Thanks man, good to know.
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Old 11-30-2008, 11:11 PM   #6
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Thanks. I've been going nuts trying to figure out why mine is seeping.

What symptom did your failed caps exhibit?
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:38 AM   #7
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Here is some more information on the new caps, there doesn't appear to be a recall:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=23830

Does anyone know if updating the cap is necessary?
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:30 PM   #8
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I replaced my coolant cap last month with a new one from my local dealer. The price was $24. The part number on the bag ended with 02 but the part number stamped on the cap in the bag ended with 03, meaning they have updated the part again.

I got the distinct whiff of coolant three separate times in the last few months so I just figured it was time... my cap was the original with part number ending in 00. This is on an 2000 S with 35K miles. So far, so good. I'm just hoping its not my coolant tank going bad.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick3000
Does anyone know if updating the cap is necessary?
You don't absolutely have to update it. If you don't it might seep... not a huge deal. But hey it's relatively cheap insurance that will keep your trunk dry and it's a 0.002 second install! What I did is just waited until I had to order something from Sunset Porsche and had them throw a new cap in with the order.

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Old 12-01-2008, 09:25 PM   #10
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Thanks, I'll just buy one from Sunset for $12 with my next order which should be soon. I have to replace my hardtop latch cover because the prongs keep breaking off.
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:08 AM   #11
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What years are effected by the bad radiator caps? I have a 2003 and it doesn't seem to have a problem.

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Old 12-02-2008, 10:04 AM   #12
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I know I asked this before but I am still trying to figure out the coolant level question. I got the new cap and no more spraying coolant or leak. But when the car is cool over night the coolant level is to the top. when I drive it and the car reaches the 180 level temperature. the coolant level shows about 4-5" bellow the low line. Some one mentioned about airin the system. I assume this is very true because when I open the cap after driving a ton of air escapes and the coolent level starts rushing upward and over flows. but if the car is cool this does not happen. If I let it seep out slowly then the level rises slowly but won't overflow.

Does this mean I still need more coolant. and if so can you end up putting to much coolant in the tank. Is this bad.

The temp light comes on after a drive for a while. this happens when the coolant level drops after getting hot
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:14 AM   #13
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The coolant level will change as it expands with the temperature, and as it is used by the car. Your coolant level will drop when you drive because the coolant is being run up the radiators, then when you park the coolant returns to the tank. (That's what the dealer told me anyway.)

Opening your tank right after driving is very dangerous. You need to let the coolant return to room temp before you open the coolant tank, and if nothing happens when the tank is at room temp. then there is probably nothing wrong.
Adding too much coolant can be bad because the tank will use the overflow above the passenger side rear wheel and leak the excess coolant out and possibly leak all of your coolant, which happened to me.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:21 AM   #14
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Cool. good to know. Any idea why the temperature light goes on when the coolant enters the radiators when the car warms up. That is why I thought maybe it needs more coolant?
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:15 AM   #15
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Joji-

First off, the coolant comes rushing back up when you remove the cap b/c you are releasing the pressure in the system. When the pressure is released, you are also decreasing the boiling point of the fluid in the system. Not a good idea to do.... especially quickly. Anyhow, sounds like you definitely have air trapped in the system. You might also have an issue w/ t-stat or water pump.

You can try either the short cut bleed method or the long one. Either way, w/o proper coolant or coolant flow, you're running the risk of creating hot spots in your motor - definitely not good!

Short cut method of bleeding the system of air:
Not 100% guaranteed effective but...
Open the bleeder valve (and leave open). Drive around w/ some random accelerations, upto 5K RPM, for about 15min. Close valve and test - make sure both radiator fans are working when at operating temp.

Prescribed method of bleeding the system of air: (from Bentley)
- For tiptronic, remove fuse B1 in fuse panel to disable ATF cooler shut-off valve)
- remove filler neck trim cover
- open up bleeder valve locking clip
- fill w/ coolant to bottom edge of filler neck
- run engine at idle. Top off w/ coolant until no more can be added when engine idle is raised sharply
- replace coolant cap and tighten. Warm up engine for about 10 min at approx 2500 rpm until coolant thermostat opens. To be sure engine is fully warmed up, check to see that radiator cooling fans in front wheel wells are on.
- allow engine to run addl 5 minutes at 2500 rpm. Every 30 seconds briefly rev engine to 5000 rpm
- open reservoir cap, relieving coolant pressure w/ extreme care. Top off coolant, close cap and repeat process of intermittently revving to 5000K rpm for 5 minutes
- allow engine to idle until radiator cooling fans cycle on and off once. Shut off engine and open reservoir cap, relieving coolant pressure w/ care
- top off coolant until level reaches max
- flip down bleeder valve locking clip
-replace filler neck trim cover and cap.
- If tiptronic, replace fuse B1

The cooling system is pressurized to 19psi and has a total capacity of 18 liters (~ 4.5 gal) so don't be afraid of adding just distilled water (entire system ratio s/b 50/50 water:approved coolant).

Good luck!
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:43 AM   #16
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joji,
Go back and read your Bleeder Tab thread.
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Old 12-06-2008, 05:59 PM   #17
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All right I am making some progress. I finally have the coolant level right below the max line when the car is cool. The Temperature light above 250 is off now. The new cap I ordered from Sunset works with no hissing and leaks. The only thing I notice now is when I open the trunk after a drive it sounds like the coolant is boiling. Far as I know coolant can't boil. Is it the water mixture boiling? do you think it is boiling at all.

Also if it is wouldn't the coolant tank melt since it is plastic

I also smell a slight burning smell now. not sure if it is related

thanks
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:04 PM   #18
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Joji,

Quote;
Q-"Far as I know coolant can't boil." A-Yes it can, adding anti-freeze raises the boil point of water (212 degrees). The radiator cap is set at a certain pressure (8-15 psi) this pressurization of the coolant system also raises the boiling point.
Q-"Is it the water mixture boiling? do you think it is boiling at all." A- Not possible, the water and anti-freeze is a mixture. If it was the engine would be so hot that you would be getting an idiot light and the temp gauge would be well above 230 degrees.
Q-"Also if it is wouldn't the coolant tank melt since it is plastic." A-The melting point of the tank is well above the boiling point of the coolant. If the tank ever melted, you would have bigger problems on your hands than the tank.
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Old 12-06-2008, 11:59 PM   #19
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Are your cooling fans coming on? Boiling suggests something is really wrong with your cooling system, like a stuck thermostat or cooling fans that fail to come on.
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Old 12-07-2008, 04:23 AM   #20
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I checked the 2 in the front. I hear them come on. But the wierd thing is that 6 months ago I heard the left fan in the front sound like it was miss aligned. it was making a bizare noise. I was just about to bring it in but it went away. I did have the thermestat chaned recently when the water pump when out. but maybe it is a bad one or not instaled right. How do I check that?

How do I check the fans if they are spinning the rigth amount. Any type of tool or way of testing it
thanks

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