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Old 09-01-2008, 10:36 AM   #1
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Slide the new AOS back down into the same hole you removed the other one from smile.gif I like to place a little oil on the rubber O-ring that goes into the block, and place a little oil on the bellows that slips down onto the steel tube protruding from the block. Make sure you watch the O-ring go into the block!!





This is the AOS installed with the new hose clamp. MUCH MUCH easier with the clamp. I preset the clamp so it *just* moves around the bellows. This allows me to "locate" it for easy access of the 7mm nut driver. You can also see I put the bracket back for the O2 sensor! AFTER tightening the new clamp for the bellows.


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Last edited by Brad Roberts; 01-18-2012 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 09-01-2008, 10:37 AM   #2
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Once I get everything done on the bottom, I move back to the top where I "snap" back in the upper breather line, and snap back in the lower breather line. The lower breather line can give you fits. I use a HONKIN long flat blade and gently press against the plastic elbow until I hear it snap. You can see it from up above IF you moved the wiring like I showed. Once you hear the "snap" for both breather lines, put the wiring loom back into place and locate the shifter cables (if you moved them out of the way)





VOILA!! NOW.. clean the damn engine. It is probably nasty





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Old 09-01-2008, 10:39 AM   #3
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It should take someone who does not wrench on a regular basis, about an hour. I did one not too long ago for a BoxsterSpec guy up at Thunderhill on his lift. I *should* have put the car down and performed 70% of the removal from above, and only went under the car to remove the spring clamp and to tighten the hose clamp. The rest can all be done from above.



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Old 09-01-2008, 03:08 PM   #4
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Thumbs up Thank You

Wow Brad, thank you for the How to. Nicely done!
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:16 PM   #5
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I had to go back and shoot some of the pics.. I didn't think to document the install until I already had the engine cover off..

I'll create a .pdf and ship it with the AOS's I sell.



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Old 09-01-2008, 07:19 PM   #6
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Clean engine: Zep then wipe it down. I use brake clean on the engine case/throttle body/oil cooler. Try to keep the brake clean off the plastic. It will discolor it!! Took a whopping 4 minutes.

I have this weird issue of cleaning things before I work and after.



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Old 09-01-2008, 08:05 PM   #7
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Hi, Thanks nice DIY.

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Old 10-07-2008, 04:05 PM   #8
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awesome write up.

how did you get your engine bay so clean? did you steam clean it, or just spend a lot of time with a rag?

i recently had my engine cover off so the car could be smogged/visual exam - and it looked all dirty like yours and I seriously had the urge to clean it..even though it's all under a cover - i know it's all dirty and the anal side of me wants it to be clean, even though no one can see it.... we are sick people!!
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Old 10-07-2008, 04:12 PM   #9
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This was a customers car

I lightly "fanned" it with brake clean to help break up the dust/dirt on top then hit it with ZEP, then wiped it down. DO NOT spray a direct stream of brake clean at the plenum, it will discolor the black. You CAN shoot the brake clean directly at the top and bottom of the engine. Just be sure to put something down to catch it as it rolls off the sides. It will leave a ton of CRAP on your garage floor or driveway. I use cardboard.

If you ever have to take it in to somebody for work, they will greatly appreciate the fact that you made an *attempt* at keeping it clean. Promise.



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Old 09-01-2008, 03:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

VOILA!! NOW.. clean the damn engine. It is probably nasty

great write up - many thanks.

now, WOW, how did you clean that engine??????


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Old 12-23-2008, 08:22 AM   #11
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broken clamp on lower hose for AOS

Great write up on the AOS. While removing the lower breather hose (not the accordian one) from the AOS I broke the clamp not realizing it is actually part of the hose! Now that the AOS is back in I cannot trace the hose to where it ends.

Is this a hose that I can replace somewhat easily if I remove the AOS?
Is there another fix for this clamp where I wouldn't need to replace the hose? It seems a daunting task.

Thanks!
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:18 PM   #12
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Idle after doing the AOS swap

I noticed that the main sign of this part going bad was pulling the oil cap while running. I tried it after the swap and my car almost died the idle went so low. I could also hear a loud hissing "air suction noise" coming from the part. Did I crack a hose or no lock it in properly? Have any of you heard this? I am afraid to drive it until I can figure if it is done correctly. At least I found the cause of my major oil leak when I swapped this part, I hope that was it, loll. If anybody could give me a sign that it’s okay the noise is normal and the idle drop is normal, it be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:05 AM   #13
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Talk about convenience. I'm gonna be ordering a AOS today.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellysplanet
I noticed that the main sign of this part going bad was pulling the oil cap while running. I tried it after the swap and my car almost died the idle went so low. I could also hear a loud hissing "air suction noise" coming from the part. Did I crack a hose or no lock it in properly? Have any of you heard this? I am afraid to drive it until I can figure if it is done correctly. At least I found the cause of my major oil leak when I swapped this part, I hope that was it, loll. If anybody could give me a sign that it’s okay the noise is normal and the idle drop is normal, it be greatly appreciated.
Not sure I understand...
Are you saying that with the bad part, the cap being pulled off results in the car almost dying?
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:21 PM   #15
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AOS Replacement

Sorry for the confusion, before pulling the AOS it was very hard to get the oil cap off while the car was running. I guess from the back pressure and had the severe smoke. Now no smoke but when I pulled the oil cap off now the idle goes way down almost to a stall out. I can also hear a loud hiss noise coming from the part, has anyone else tried this yet or heard the noise. I just want to make sure I have the hoses on tight, tripple checked no leaks. I took it for a test drive tonight, ran alot quieter smoother, feels like has more power. While driving slow riding through the movie theater, sounded and felt like was going to stall out. Any guesses.

Thanks,
Kelly
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:37 AM   #16
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Awesome writeup & photos Brad, thanks for posting this. The AOS for my 2000 S did not come with a O-ring just sealant on the tube, do I need the O-ring also to seal the tube going into the block??
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Old 01-19-2010, 04:06 PM   #17
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[QUOTE=BYprodriver]Awesome writeup & photos Brad, thanks for posting this. The AOS for my 2000 S did not come with a O-ring just sealant on the tube, do I need the O-ring also to seal the tube going into the block??[/QUOTE

Pulled the original out of the trash & realized new AOS -04 version has improved seal on the tube & original had single O-ring.
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