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Old 09-01-2008, 10:30 AM   #1
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After removing the lower clamp (I used the same small Channel locks as above) the AOS will slide up and out of the engine compartment. You will have to twist it and pay attention to things it could get caught on while coming out. FYI: There is a special tool for those clamps you see. I choose not to reuse those clamps and instead, replace it with something MUCH easier to deal with during the process of installing the new AOS





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Old 09-01-2008, 10:34 AM   #2
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I go back in with a factory hose clamp





Stock spring clamp is on the left, factory hose clamp on the right! This hose clamp does NOT need 400lb. ft. of torque on it. Just snug. You'll find that trying to put the spring clamp back on with your arms fully extended from the wheel well will prove to be nearly impossible (unless you manage to locate the proper locking pliers that hold CLOSED on the clamp) I find it MUCH easier to stick a 7mm nut driver up there to a regular hose clamp and MOVE ON!


Here is the factory part number for the clamp I used. It is a "fluid" hose clamp meant for BoxsterS 3rd radiator hoses. Feel free to use any hose clamp you feel comfortable with. I choose factory parts as much as possible in my builds/repairs.


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Old 09-01-2008, 10:36 AM   #3
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Slide the new AOS back down into the same hole you removed the other one from smile.gif I like to place a little oil on the rubber O-ring that goes into the block, and place a little oil on the bellows that slips down onto the steel tube protruding from the block. Make sure you watch the O-ring go into the block!!





This is the AOS installed with the new hose clamp. MUCH MUCH easier with the clamp. I preset the clamp so it *just* moves around the bellows. This allows me to "locate" it for easy access of the 7mm nut driver. You can also see I put the bracket back for the O2 sensor! AFTER tightening the new clamp for the bellows.


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Old 09-01-2008, 10:37 AM   #4
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Once I get everything done on the bottom, I move back to the top where I "snap" back in the upper breather line, and snap back in the lower breather line. The lower breather line can give you fits. I use a HONKIN long flat blade and gently press against the plastic elbow until I hear it snap. You can see it from up above IF you moved the wiring like I showed. Once you hear the "snap" for both breather lines, put the wiring loom back into place and locate the shifter cables (if you moved them out of the way)





VOILA!! NOW.. clean the damn engine. It is probably nasty





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Old 09-01-2008, 10:39 AM   #5
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It should take someone who does not wrench on a regular basis, about an hour. I did one not too long ago for a BoxsterSpec guy up at Thunderhill on his lift. I *should* have put the car down and performed 70% of the removal from above, and only went under the car to remove the spring clamp and to tighten the hose clamp. The rest can all be done from above.



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Old 09-01-2008, 03:08 PM   #6
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Thumbs up Thank You

Wow Brad, thank you for the How to. Nicely done!
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:16 PM   #7
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I had to go back and shoot some of the pics.. I didn't think to document the install until I already had the engine cover off..

I'll create a .pdf and ship it with the AOS's I sell.



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Old 10-07-2008, 04:05 PM   #8
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awesome write up.

how did you get your engine bay so clean? did you steam clean it, or just spend a lot of time with a rag?

i recently had my engine cover off so the car could be smogged/visual exam - and it looked all dirty like yours and I seriously had the urge to clean it..even though it's all under a cover - i know it's all dirty and the anal side of me wants it to be clean, even though no one can see it.... we are sick people!!
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Old 09-01-2008, 03:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

VOILA!! NOW.. clean the damn engine. It is probably nasty

great write up - many thanks.

now, WOW, how did you clean that engine??????


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Old 12-23-2008, 08:22 AM   #10
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broken clamp on lower hose for AOS

Great write up on the AOS. While removing the lower breather hose (not the accordian one) from the AOS I broke the clamp not realizing it is actually part of the hose! Now that the AOS is back in I cannot trace the hose to where it ends.

Is this a hose that I can replace somewhat easily if I remove the AOS?
Is there another fix for this clamp where I wouldn't need to replace the hose? It seems a daunting task.

Thanks!
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:18 PM   #11
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Idle after doing the AOS swap

I noticed that the main sign of this part going bad was pulling the oil cap while running. I tried it after the swap and my car almost died the idle went so low. I could also hear a loud hissing "air suction noise" coming from the part. Did I crack a hose or no lock it in properly? Have any of you heard this? I am afraid to drive it until I can figure if it is done correctly. At least I found the cause of my major oil leak when I swapped this part, I hope that was it, loll. If anybody could give me a sign that it’s okay the noise is normal and the idle drop is normal, it be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:37 AM   #12
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Awesome writeup & photos Brad, thanks for posting this. The AOS for my 2000 S did not come with a O-ring just sealant on the tube, do I need the O-ring also to seal the tube going into the block??
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Old 01-19-2010, 04:06 PM   #13
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[QUOTE=BYprodriver]Awesome writeup & photos Brad, thanks for posting this. The AOS for my 2000 S did not come with a O-ring just sealant on the tube, do I need the O-ring also to seal the tube going into the block??[/QUOTE

Pulled the original out of the trash & realized new AOS -04 version has improved seal on the tube & original had single O-ring.
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