Air/Oil Seperator write up?

[Brad Roberts]

Once you get the top "material" out of the way, you can pull the carpet off the top of the engine cover. There will be 4 plastic "twist locks". Flip one half of the locking mechanism up and simply "twist" It *should* be a counter clockwise rotation. It should take nearly NO effort for them to twist and release. They will break. Take your time.

This is the top material up and out of the way.. and the carpet up and out of the way. The engine lid itself has multiple "gold/cad" colored twist locks that hold it to the chassis. These have a small wire "hoop" on them. Flip the hoop up and "twist" it will release the engine lid, simply lift it off when you have all of them released.




Engine lid off:

[Brad Roberts]

Here is the location of the AOS:





You will need a 10mm deep socket, a pair of small channel locks, and maybe a 10mm zippy wrench (Gearwrench)

[Brad Roberts]

I start by removing the upper breather line, and moving the wiring harness out of the way. This requires nearly NO effort. Just barely squeeze and pull away from the AOS





Unclip the plastic wiring loom holder and move the wires back. Take the second loom you see that is NOT in the holder and move it up and over the fuel rail test port. This will give you more room later as you work

[Brad Roberts]

It should look like this when you get the loom unclipped and the second loom UP and over the fuel test port cover.





NOW you can see the lower plastic clamp that needs to be released!!!

[Brad Roberts]

From above and using the same Blue small Channel locks as I used on the breather line above, I reach down and carefully release the lower breather hose. I also move the shifter cables over and out of the way.

[Brad Roberts]

Now its time to visualize Take a look at the length and positioning of the stock bolts. I try to do as much as I can up on top prior to jacking the car up and getting underneath. I can easily remove the two M6 bolts (10mm head) from up top utilizing a short 10mm socket on a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and a Zippy 10mm wrench.

You will be removing these two small bolts. They thread into the block. Once you get them broke loose, use JUST the socket to unscrew them. They will come out pretty easy.





Use the 1/4 drive with 10mm socket on the top one, and the 10mm Zippy wrench on the bottom one. YOU CAN DO THIS from the top of the car. Just feel down the side of the AOS. I do my damnedest to stay out from under the car until I have too. I shot these pics from under the car, just to show everyone where the bolts where located.

[Brad Roberts]

I also go ahead (from the top) and remove this bracket seen here with the blue arrow pointing to it. This will allow you EASY access to the clamp we will remove later from the lower portion of the bellows.





In this shot, you can clearly see the bolts have been removed and the blue arrow is pointing to the clamp that needs to be removed NEXT!! You can also see in this pic, how I removed the M6 bolt for the bracket and moved the bracket out of the way. The bracket holds the plug for one of the O2 sensors.