95% of your paints appearance is how well you prep it. Claying, compounding, polishing etc. The other 5% is the wax/sealant you put on. Keep that in mind before you spend a ton of money on a boutique wax.

It should be a crime, but I have never polished my 986. It never really needed it until now, but the swirls are really starting to bother me, so I am planning to do a multi-day detail, including paint correction. I have chosen to top the sealant with a coat of Collinite 845 wax, which seems to be a favorite among detailers. In the past I have used NXT 2.0 liquid wax, which provides a nice shine, but doesn't last very long. I will report back once I finish!

Clay bar, and a decent swirl remover will make any polish and wax like Turtle Wax from Wal-Mart look nearly identical to any overpriced boutique brand multi step product line.
The only caveat is the amount of carnauba in your wax. But even that is a stretch because a well maintained surface does not need all that much carnauba your basic retail wax will git er done. What you should be spending your money on is the highest quality towels that you can get your hands on to keep the swirls and clear coat wear to a minimum.

Everyone has their favorite brands and products for ease of use and durability myself included. But don't buy into the hype of expensive vs cheap retail. It takes an extremely well trained eye to tell a Turtle Wax car from a Zaino car (just as an example) if both have had the same prep. Believe me (hmmm who says that a lot?) I have tried them all, the "core" ingredients are nearly the same in all no matter the price. There are a few products that do have some proprietary ingredients but we're talking a handful in a sea of hundreds of products.

I had to do paint correction on swirled oxidised water spotted dull paint this spring & am really happy with my results. I basically used griots complete coumpound & a porter cable dual action polisher for correction & then klasse all in one paint sealant topped with p21s carnuba wax. after that work when it gets dirty a little water & meguires car wash soap & it looks as good as the day I did all the work

Porsche paint can apparently be pretty tricky.

If your interested detail & before/after pics of my project can be found here

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/108548-help-me-fix-my-black-2004-porsche-paint-pictures.html

100% Agree, although I don't think a towel will wear clear coat.

If you are using anything other than microfiber, stop right now and go buy some microfiber towels. I recently discovered The Rag Company (no affiliation), their microfiber is much more reasonably priced than other car care stores, and the quality is top notch. I have spent more than I care to admit buying microfiber towels, but I think it makes a big difference. Also, never mix wheel/engine towels and drying/paint towels.

I don't even touch the paint while drying anymore, $25 Costco mini leaf blower :)

A brand new right out of the bag microfiber towel?
Indeed it will not swirl the clear coat.

The problem is that those prickly hooks are extremely stubborn at releasing what they pick up once soiled. The reality is that 99% of auto store microfiber towels are nothing more than rebranded janitorial towels used to clean floors. That is insane overkill for a well maintained surface like an enthusiast car.
There are microfiber towels specifically made for expensive car paints, like the Griot's Garage high loft green towels. My experience is that a quality detailing towel is rarely sold for less than $4-5 per towel. If it comes in 40 pack for $20 at Costco or Wal-Mart don't use these more than once in the paint unless you run them at least 3 times in the wash on the hot setting with a very aggressive detergent.

Excellent tips!

Anything that causes beading is bad, IMO, you want the rain to flow smoothly off the car to avoid spotting. I never wax a car.

You're kidding right?

Not at all, even Mequairs tried to convince people, but no one listens.

You want the effect on the top of this hood.

http://www.meguiars.co.uk/meguiars-tech-what-is-water-beading/

http://www.meguiars.co.uk/blog/wp-co...1-682x1024.jpg

Wax/sealant makes your car:

-look nicer
-easier to clean (dirt/dust sticks less)
-easier to dry (water blows right off with a blower)
-more resistant to bird poop and hard water etching
-more resistant to contamination (iron/brake dust and sap won't bond as easily)

Why you would not want any of these things is beyond me. But hey, its your car.

Has worked on hundreds of cars I've owned since the 60's.

Do products like the Aquawax (which i like for the ease of application) protect the clearcoat against UV / sun damage?
Or are the benefits mostly about the appearance?

My wagon stays a portion of the day in the sun and I'd like to protect its paint as much as possible.

Rejex !!!! :-o
 

So all of my friends with supercars and classics use this stuff... I found it through my Porsche mechanic. I find it to be hands down the best product I have ever used on a car's paint. I have waxed a lot of cars in my lifetime. My dad was a wholesaler when I was growing up... Anyways, the whole group of guys in my area who actually wax our own cars use this stuff... Just wanted to put it out there.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1500824026.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1500824040.jpg

Has anyone tried a ceramic wax treatment ?

Amazon reviewers report Rejex allows water to flow in sheets off the car instead of beading like wax does, almost like RainX on a windshield.

Is that a good thing?

Also, it says to remove surface grime and Oxidation. What's best to use to remove that?

I think there is some confusion in this thread over the correct terms for different types of paint correction and care products. A quick run down:

Correction
Compounds are used to correct heavy scratches and swirls
Polish is used to correct light scratches and swirls, and after a compound to remove an residual haze
Glazes are temporary fillers that mask paint defects like scratches, but do not last very long and do not resolve the underlying issue of a scratch or swirl.
Clay is used to remove contaminates imbedded in the paint, it is an abrasive and should only be used when necessary. If you keep the car protected with sealant and/or wax, you should not have to clay every often.

All In One's
Cleaner Waxes, or All In One types products are have some mild polish in them to remove light defects and leave behind a layer of protection. They work reasonably well, they are kind of like all-season tires okay for most, not the best at anything.

Protection
Sealant is normally a polymer, which is longer lasting than wax, but does not shine as much.
Wax is used to add shine, but does not last very long.
*A lot of people put wax over a sealant to get the advantages of both, both provide some UV protection. The longevity of sealant and wax depends on the conditions (sun, rain, etc).
Coatings are a relatively new development, and permanently adhere to the clear coat (at least for several years). Coatings primarily add protection and can change the way water reacts with the surface of the paint, for instance causing it to bead or sheet. You can put sealant and wax over a coating. There are different types of coatings, like ceramic or "glass". The top layer will dictate the hydrophobic properties of the paint, so if you put sealant or wax on a coating you will lose those properties until the sealant or wax wears away.

Temporary Protection/Other
Spray Wax can be used in between waxing to add some extra shine. It does not have the same protective ability as a coat of wax, but can help "boost" an existing coat of wax and extend its life. I use spray wax to lubricate the paint when drying it after a wash to add shine, and avoid grinding any residual dirt into the paint.
Instant Detailer is basically expensive water, and is used to lubricate the paint when spot removing something. I just use spray wax instead.

Hydrophobic Properties
Most people want beading because they know what that is, and think it is the best. Sheeting is actually better, because it will cause the water to roll off the paint instead of sitting on the paint as a bead, then evaporate leaving a water spot (unless you are using filtered water).