No problem.
What you really need to do at this point is remove the 4 drivers side seat rail bolts and get to the immobilizer (these bolts are male star heads, but you can remove them with a standard socket - I don't recall which size fits, just make sure it is not a loose fit). The catch is that you need to keep the battery connected for testing, so you don't want to disconnect the seat electrical harness.
If you remove the bolts and fold the seat back forward, you can raise the front of the seat and prop it up with a board so you can get to the immobilizer without taking the seat all the way out (if you disconnect the seat harness with the battery connected, it will trip the airbag light).
Once you have access to the immobilizer, you'll need to find the red/black wire and repeat test 3 to determine if the immobilizer is outputting 12V+ on that line. That line is the "consumer switched off" circuit which provides power to devices that need it with ignition off, like the interior lights.
Once the ignition is shut off and the door has either been closed for a few minutes or the car is locked, that circuit is switched off to prevent battery drain, which is why I said to close and open the door before checking the voltmeter (this reactivates the circuit and turns the 12V+ back on).