View Single Post
Old 06-03-2017, 09:26 PM   #476
Gelbster
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S.California
Posts: 2,029
Late to Ben's Party ......

I just installed Ben's Short Shifter and am grateful to have one of the last he will make/sell.
I was late to the party because my shifter did not have much play. When I removed the center console I saw why - the P.O. had greased it some years ago and I presume that helped.
Removing the old Bushings:
Clamp the ball of the shifter shaft in a vise -very tight.It is junk anyway.Use a sharp wood chisel that has a steel shank.Ben's video shows a screwdriver. A sharpened ,all steel chisel would also work.This tool removes each tang of the bushing with a single hit. Precise,targeted force - always good mechanic work.
While you are in there:
I dithered about bothering to install Ben's but I also needed to replace the Parking Brake switch(interlinked with the top operation). This should be a 'while you are in there' suggestion ?
Photograph and mark all the fiddly little parts. Use a spatula to gently pry off the pieces.Look for hidden screws - no force !
Upgrades to Ben's shifter:
I had smoothed the pennies and filed the adjuster bolts square and flat. Totally needless ! I used red sticky grease on every moving surface and adjusted where possible for zero clearance.
Precaution:
Do not apply Loctite until you have completed your tests.Then you can use Wicking grade green. If you use blue or red (!) and then need adjustment you will be in trouble !
When adjusting the set screws and then locking the nuts after using Loctite(not the best sequence, but it happens!) - use a long hex wrench as a counterstay in the end of the set screw.If you just tighten/loosen the the nut with a long wrench but without the countertay, you may be inadvertently twisting the entire bushing in the shifter cradle.This is because the setscrew threads have locked(with Loctite) inside the bushing This bushing is located by a small tang of plastic. If you shear off that tang you will need a new cradle ...... Just use a hex key/wrench as a counterstay.
Results:
Test drive result - I am absolutely astonished by the reduction in play. Magnificent. No more rowing the lever. Now you must use a little more muscle(good) but no need to finesse it. And no doubt about 3rd or 5th !
If you notice the handle is a bit loose on the new shaft (before you tighten the set screw) -slip in a length of shim.I used a piece of stainless steel from a tie wrap intended for cv boots.It made the handle a snug fit.
Next step?
The remaining task is to reduce the play in the large white oval plastic piece on the driver's side of the gear change assy. It is located by a plastic pin that has some play. The pin is at the rear of this plastic piece and is not very significant to shift quality.I lubed it but of course that does not eliminate the play! Ben's part addresses most of the issue but that one last remaining wobble is a challenge.
This video has some ideas but he misses Ben's idea of using ball bearings !Look at 1.58. Lots of fiddly fabrication that is trial and error.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJv0wI72aRg
Thank you Ben:
Grateful to Ben for sharing his creativity. Porsche should have made this assy. like Ben did. It would have been a legendary gear shift.

Last edited by Gelbster; 06-10-2017 at 09:45 AM.
Gelbster is offline   Reply With Quote