986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners - View Single Post - Need help diagnosing suspension clunk and steering wobble

jedblanks · 08-25-2016, 06:05 AM

Cliff Notes: Check the shock pinch bolt that the top of the drop links go through (63 fit lbs)

So I found this thread and a few others since march when I got my 2001 Boxster S with 58k miles . I had a some clunks and a wobble, wandering steering on bumps.

The very first service I did on the car was a oil change and a brake job - new pads and change fluid. Rotors looked on as far a thickness. Pretty much my standard items when getting a used car.

After a month or so I started to drive more with the top up and on the freeway and I noticed the clunks around town and the wobbly steering at speeds over 60 mph

The next item I replaced was inner and outer tie rods on both sides. This made almost no difference at all.

After a month or two of clunking over small bumps at low speed, I replaced was the front and rear track arms. New TRW units cost around $400 total from elephant racing (front) and summit racing (rear).

That pretty much solved the loud rhythmic clunks around town, but the wobbling steering and occasional random clunk when unloaded after a bump remained.

I had a rattling exhaust baffle, so I changed that out and wasn't sure if the clunking was related to new exhaust.

The next items I replaced were front sway bar bushings. I did a few adjustments to bring more toe-in on the front end alignment.

Random clunks remained around town 10- 20. Wobble/ unstable remained Especially over 60 on the freeway.

So I ordered new drop links all around, rear swaybar bushings and engine mount insert,.

I was beginning to think I would have to go all the way and replace coffin arms, shocks and rear toe links.

When I changed the droplinks on one side, there was no change.

A week later the parts for the other side and rear sway bushings came in.

This time I made sure that I torqued the top bolts on the sway bar drop links to 63 ft lbs and the bottom bolts to 37 ft lbs (~450 in lbs as my large torque wrench wouldn't fit).

I was "shocked" and how many turns I got on the top bolt after it was tight with a 15mm and a 17mm backup. When I finally got it to 63 ft lbs, I realized that the other side probably wasn't tight either.

I think this was the problem all along -- one stinkin' bolt not tight. Its the same bolt that pinches the bottom of the shock to the hub knuckle.

So for those reading this in the future:
1) check the pinch bolt for the bottom of the shock - torque it to 63 ft lbs
2) change the front and rear track control arms.

What a hassle this was to track down!

08-25-2016, 06:05 AM	#31
jedblanks Registered User Join Date: May 2016 Location: Texas Posts: 25	Cliff Notes: Check the shock pinch bolt that the top of the drop links go through (63 fit lbs) So I found this thread and a few others since march when I got my 2001 Boxster S with 58k miles . I had a some clunks and a wobble, wandering steering on bumps. The very first service I did on the car was a oil change and a brake job - new pads and change fluid. Rotors looked on as far a thickness. Pretty much my standard items when getting a used car. After a month or so I started to drive more with the top up and on the freeway and I noticed the clunks around town and the wobbly steering at speeds over 60 mph The next item I replaced was inner and outer tie rods on both sides. This made almost no difference at all. After a month or two of clunking over small bumps at low speed, I replaced was the front and rear track arms. New TRW units cost around $400 total from elephant racing (front) and summit racing (rear). That pretty much solved the loud rhythmic clunks around town, but the wobbling steering and occasional random clunk when unloaded after a bump remained. I had a rattling exhaust baffle, so I changed that out and wasn't sure if the clunking was related to new exhaust. The next items I replaced were front sway bar bushings. I did a few adjustments to bring more toe-in on the front end alignment. Random clunks remained around town 10- 20. Wobble/ unstable remained Especially over 60 on the freeway. So I ordered new drop links all around, rear swaybar bushings and engine mount insert,. I was beginning to think I would have to go all the way and replace coffin arms, shocks and rear toe links. When I changed the droplinks on one side, there was no change. A week later the parts for the other side and rear sway bushings came in. This time I made sure that I torqued the top bolts on the sway bar drop links to 63 ft lbs and the bottom bolts to 37 ft lbs (~450 in lbs as my large torque wrench wouldn't fit). I was "shocked" and how many turns I got on the top bolt after it was tight with a 15mm and a 17mm backup. When I finally got it to 63 ft lbs, I realized that the other side probably wasn't tight either. I think this was the problem all along -- one stinkin' bolt not tight. Its the same bolt that pinches the bottom of the shock to the hub knuckle. So for those reading this in the future: 1) check the pinch bolt for the bottom of the shock - torque it to 63 ft lbs 2) change the front and rear track control arms. What a hassle this was to track down!