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Gilles · 06-11-2016, 07:23 AM

Hello JPC763,

A few weeks ago I had an electric power loss that drove me nuts trying to solve, all started with the engine dying and no electric power (no dash lights, could not remove the key, etc.) but after disconnecting the battery cables you would get the power restored until you tried to start the engine and heard a loud click (from the starter) and all power was lost again cycle…

Location for the Master Connector on dashboard..?

I ended replacing the starter relay and assumed that that was the cause because it ran for one month when the same thing happen, and after going to the dealer to buy another relay I stepped into the service bay and explained my failure but the technician told me that based on the symptoms the relay failure was a result of a power failure on the system and suggested to start the troubleshoot procedure first by disconnecting and cleaning the two grounds (battery and engine), then start at the battery following the power flow with a simple light tester, (battery to power distributor, PD to fuse box, etc.) But I didn't went too far because the connection of the positive cable from the battery connects to the power distribution box was the culprit…

The Power Distribution Box is located above the passenger foot wheel and has a long rod (about 1/8" diameter) that goes through the firewall and connects to the battery power cable with a weird "friction type connector" that does not use a nut but goes with pressure and has a 'coffin shaped' plastic enclosure to protect it and keeping it from touching the body (ground).

I have to pull hard the coffin shaped plastic (with the help of a large screwdriver) to get it unplugged and found out that the metal rod had a bit of corrosion, which I cleaned with an old toothbrush and electric contact cleaner as well as the inside of the cable connector, and assemble it back with a good amount of dielectric grease to help avoid further corrosion.

Now the car starts great and I am not sure (probably my imagination) but it seems that the engine runs smother and better than before.

This may not be related but worth checking.
Good luck!

06-11-2016, 07:23 AM	#6
Gilles Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 1,848	Perhaps something else than the battery and alternator? Hello JPC763, A few weeks ago I had an electric power loss that drove me nuts trying to solve, all started with the engine dying and no electric power (no dash lights, could not remove the key, etc.) but after disconnecting the battery cables you would get the power restored until you tried to start the engine and heard a loud click (from the starter) and all power was lost again cycle… Location for the Master Connector on dashboard..? I ended replacing the starter relay and assumed that that was the cause because it ran for one month when the same thing happen, and after going to the dealer to buy another relay I stepped into the service bay and explained my failure but the technician told me that based on the symptoms the relay failure was a result of a power failure on the system and suggested to start the troubleshoot procedure first by disconnecting and cleaning the two grounds (battery and engine), then start at the battery following the power flow with a simple light tester, (battery to power distributor, PD to fuse box, etc.) But I didn't went too far because the connection of the positive cable from the battery connects to the power distribution box was the culprit… The Power Distribution Box is located above the passenger foot wheel and has a long rod (about 1/8" diameter) that goes through the firewall and connects to the battery power cable with a weird "friction type connector" that does not use a nut but goes with pressure and has a 'coffin shaped' plastic enclosure to protect it and keeping it from touching the body (ground). I have to pull hard the coffin shaped plastic (with the help of a large screwdriver) to get it unplugged and found out that the metal rod had a bit of corrosion, which I cleaned with an old toothbrush and electric contact cleaner as well as the inside of the cable connector, and assemble it back with a good amount of dielectric grease to help avoid further corrosion. Now the car starts great and I am not sure (probably my imagination) but it seems that the engine runs smother and better than before. This may not be related but worth checking. Good luck!