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Old 05-27-2016, 08:25 PM   #11
jb92563
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
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DRGETZ forgot to consider/mention that the coolant system is under pressure ~5-15psi and that the Radiator fluid itself is also increasing the boil temp and decreasing the formation of steam bubbles.
https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/how-does-radiator-cap-work.htm

Honestly if you do end up boiling the coolant then you are already in deep trouble and your gauge would be flashing long before that.

Note that your temp guage is centered at 185 F and if it got to 200 you would definitively be thinking of starting to bring her down gently and still have at least a 40F or more margin before boiling.

The higher the coolant velocity the more turbulence and more drag so if you were to measure the actual difference in coolant velocity through the system, I doubt it would be much different with the UDP and perhaps may even prevent pump damage by not having the pump cavitate at high rpms.

Its all speculation and theory so us mortals just learn from the racers empirical results and take their word that UDP's work and cause no ill effects.

I have a Tarret UDP and although not raced much it has been working fine and I feel like I'm saving wear and tear on the accessories and gained some faster responsiveness when hitting the throttle.
I noticed a postive change immediately when switching to a UDP
Perhaps a bit of torque increase at the low end as I'm feeling like a rocket launching from 1st to 2nd as the rear is gripping hard and thrusting me back in the seat. Love that feeling in my S.
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Last edited by jb92563; 05-27-2016 at 09:27 PM.
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