Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro
Thanks steved0x and BirdDog. I decided I will replace part number 8 as well. I removed one and it really seems pretty good but I figure as long as I am doing all this, might as well. I was going to get the 987 part but it is out of stock right now so will probably end up with the 986 one - who knows, maybe it will be in stock again by the time I get my order in. I have my list of parts but held off until I did a bit more dis-assembly. I'm glad I did as I keep finding more and more things wrong the deeper I get. Tonight I got the hub pulled off and the bearing removed. I was puzzled as the wheel hub seems to be "tapered" as it enters the inside half of the bearing. That didn't seem right to me so I got online and started searching for pictures. Sure enough it is not supposed to be that way so now I will need a new wheel hub as well. I can actually push the hub half way into the bearing without using a press!!!
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I just read a thread somewhere about this (from a different forum) - sometimes on the fronts the inner race can spin on the hub and gradually machine it away until the hub fails. The consensus on the thread was that this was mostly caused by inadequate torque on the stub axle. This same thread was talking about the need to repack sealed wheel bearings, like shown in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A5kf5pXl4w
I just replaced all 4 of my wheel bearings and did not do this... Ugggg. I was able to torque all my axle nuts to 300 ft pounds plus an additional pull, since the torque wrench I had access to only went up to 300#.