So you fought your way through fitting a new coolant tank. But it won't fill correctly,it spews hot coolant .You use Airlift,ramps - nothing works. And then the new tank splits and
floods the trunk,engine overheats....
Here is one explanation that is easy for 986 Forum members to check BEFORE you fit the new tank. Check the 3 nipples shown in the photos with a piece of soft wire or some slightly compressed air.
Yup, all 3 are blocked !
But why?
The tank is a top and bottom half glued together. The nipples are in the lower white half.The nipples are aligned with & connect to ports in the top,black half of the tank. Or ,they
should connect.
If the top and bottom halves are
not correctly aligned when they are glued together, all 3 ports are blocked. And no, you can't just drill out the blockage because the nipples are not aligned with the ports.
The new tank looks perfect but it is junk.
Worse the lack of venting and drainage means it will prevent your cooling system from functioning correctly and prevent complete filling of coolant. This may cause overheating/engine failure/flooded trunk.
The solution? Don't buy a tank from anywhere except Pelican imho. I shall offer Pelican the tank pictured for their 'show & tell' of why the Pelican tank is worth a few extra dollars.
And if you do have a problem - Pelican actually help you :-).
The vendor of this bad, new tank " SVB IMPORTS ", aka "ARBOSHA" - not at all.
While you are in there :
1. Oil filler tube- it becomes brittle
2. Buy a Mayhew remote hose clamp tool+set of hose clamp pliers. UView Airlift or similar.Channellock #GL6-small ,angle -for the spring clamps.
3. AOS ?
4. change all the coolant
5. inspect & test wp bearing for wobble.
6. drill a drain hole through the trunk floor- directly beneath the coolant tank so any leakage of oil or water causes minimal problems.
7.Updated coolant cap - check for correct part #.
8.Be very careful with the coolant LEVEL sensor