[clickman]

It was a long time ago that I did this, but I found some old notes:

Take off the wheel and take out the wheel lining. Then look up in the wheel well and see the black plastic carbon canister with the hoses connected to it. The canister has to come out to allow access.

In addition to the hoses connected to it and one silver nut, it's just held in place with a compression fitting with two plastic prongs that go into two rubber grommets behind it. You just have to give the carbon canister a good tug. I was afraid I'd break something but you won't ... the rubber grommets are fairly tight, but a good tug and the canister comes straight out. Make sure you disconnect the various hoses and lines.

The only challenging part is getting to the two Torx screws that hold the fuel door lock actuator in place. They're at a 90 degree angle up at the top of the wheel well and you only have about 1-1.5 inches of clearance. I used a short #20 Torx fitting (the short one that goes into a screw driver head) and a box end wrench to unscrew the two screws. You might be able to do this with a 90 degree #20 Torx configured like an allen wrench. You DONT have to unscrew them all the way. They actually only have to be backed out a turn or so to release the U shaped fittings....and the actuator will drop down.

Make sure you feed the black emergency cable and ring thru the slot in the passenger's door frame...otherwise it will hang up the actuator when you try to drop it down. Look in the door frame with a flashlight, and you'll see how the ring can be turned and stuffed back thru the slot.

Don't lose the black plastic cap that feeds the actuator shaft thru the opening in the fuel door recess. It looks like a little round hat with a hole in it. It's used to line up the shaft so it hits the hole in the lock, and the shaft protrudes thru it when you lock the car.