986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners - View Single Post - Cam deviations

steved0x · 02-13-2015, 12:06 PM

So up until just recently I thought that my Cam deviations were holding steady. Each time I monitored them with the Durametric (with car fully warmed up) they were rock steady, but I didn't really realize that over time they have been moving. I only recently started recording them, and I found these records:

8/31/2014....113,019.....Bank 1 -5.61...Bank 2 -6.25
12/25/2014...114,898....Bank 1 -6.06...Bank 2 -6.37
2/8/2015.......115,696....Bank 1 -6.19...Bank 2 -6.38

Bank 1 looks like it is moving pretty fast. In my previous oil changes with the old canister style filter I never found anything when I cut and spread out the filter, and I do have an oil change in October 2014 with the spin on type that I haven't gotten around to opening, and I wonder if I will find some stuff there. (I am doing it this weekend) I dropped the sump pan in May 2014 and found a tiny bit of plastic bits and one slightly bigger piece in the oil pickup filter, and some silicon strands but otherwise it was very clean.

I talked with a couple of shops today and they are reviewing my options.

Shop 1 is reviewing my service history, deviations, etc and is going to get back to me with a recommendation but it will probably be replace the variocam pads and inspect everything related, and then decide from there. The lead from this shop has been through Jake's classes and is highly recommended.

Shop 2 says it is usually around $1800 to get in there and replace those pads, but for $4800 they will take the engine out, open it up, replace all pads, seals, gaskets, etc and inspect/clean everything while they are in there... I talked with him and he seems very knowledgeable as well. A difference I guess between the two would be that this shop prefers a roller bearing type IMS (IMS Eternal Fix?) Here is the list (I may be leaving some out, typing from my notes):

They drain and save the coolant as well as the power steering fluid unless instructed otherwise.
Remove crank shaft and inspect and measure clearance.
Inspect the pistons and rings for any kind of damage and clean the groves .
Replace the connecting rod bearings and wrist pin clips.
Remove cam shafts then disassemble cam chain tensioner and replace the chain rails
Remove valves and cut seats if needed ,then lap all valves
Replace all gaskets and seals
Install a roller bearing type IMS bearing .
Remove oil pump and inspect for wear.
Test the oil pressure relive valve and drill a hole into center of shaft in order to provide oil to the IMS bearing. [??? Has anyone ever heard of this, is that a typo from my notes?]( This will only be done when we use their IMS bearing)
Reassemble engine and perform a leak down test on all cylinders.
Install a new oil separator and the cross over hose that attaches to it.
Replace the vacuum fittings, lines and check valve.

I have a new waterpump, thermostat, and LN Dual row bearing installed around 12,000 miles ago so that stuff would not be changed so there would be some discount. On one hand if I am going inside the engine I feel like it would make sense to go all in, which is a lot more than $4800. Heck for $4800 I could probably get another engine and just drive the heck out of it... I could almost get a whole other Boxster for that. But if $4800 totally gets in there and cleans everything out, inspects, and replaces the items described above... That actually doesn't seem too bad, especially if it catches something and prevents a future blow up.

Any thoughts?

And when I do the variocam pads, is there anything else that is a no brainer to replace while in there? (Timing chains? I have a 5 chain motor?)

Thanks,

Steve

02-13-2015, 12:06 PM	#1
steved0x Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 4,143	Cam deviations - Variocam tensioner pad time... So up until just recently I thought that my Cam deviations were holding steady. Each time I monitored them with the Durametric (with car fully warmed up) they were rock steady, but I didn't really realize that over time they have been moving. I only recently started recording them, and I found these records: 8/31/2014....113,019.....Bank 1 -5.61...Bank 2 -6.25 12/25/2014...114,898....Bank 1 -6.06...Bank 2 -6.37 2/8/2015.......115,696....Bank 1 -6.19...Bank 2 -6.38 Bank 1 looks like it is moving pretty fast. In my previous oil changes with the old canister style filter I never found anything when I cut and spread out the filter, and I do have an oil change in October 2014 with the spin on type that I haven't gotten around to opening, and I wonder if I will find some stuff there. (I am doing it this weekend) I dropped the sump pan in May 2014 and found a tiny bit of plastic bits and one slightly bigger piece in the oil pickup filter, and some silicon strands but otherwise it was very clean. I talked with a couple of shops today and they are reviewing my options. Shop 1 is reviewing my service history, deviations, etc and is going to get back to me with a recommendation but it will probably be replace the variocam pads and inspect everything related, and then decide from there. The lead from this shop has been through Jake's classes and is highly recommended. Shop 2 says it is usually around $1800 to get in there and replace those pads, but for $4800 they will take the engine out, open it up, replace all pads, seals, gaskets, etc and inspect/clean everything while they are in there... I talked with him and he seems very knowledgeable as well. A difference I guess between the two would be that this shop prefers a roller bearing type IMS (IMS Eternal Fix?) Here is the list (I may be leaving some out, typing from my notes): They drain and save the coolant as well as the power steering fluid unless instructed otherwise. Remove crank shaft and inspect and measure clearance. Inspect the pistons and rings for any kind of damage and clean the groves . Replace the connecting rod bearings and wrist pin clips. Remove cam shafts then disassemble cam chain tensioner and replace the chain rails Remove valves and cut seats if needed ,then lap all valves Replace all gaskets and seals Install a roller bearing type IMS bearing . Remove oil pump and inspect for wear. Test the oil pressure relive valve and drill a hole into center of shaft in order to provide oil to the IMS bearing. [??? Has anyone ever heard of this, is that a typo from my notes?]( This will only be done when we use their IMS bearing) Reassemble engine and perform a leak down test on all cylinders. Install a new oil separator and the cross over hose that attaches to it. Replace the vacuum fittings, lines and check valve. I have a new waterpump, thermostat, and LN Dual row bearing installed around 12,000 miles ago so that stuff would not be changed so there would be some discount. On one hand if I am going inside the engine I feel like it would make sense to go all in, which is a lot more than $4800. Heck for $4800 I could probably get another engine and just drive the heck out of it... I could almost get a whole other Boxster for that. But if $4800 totally gets in there and cleans everything out, inspects, and replaces the items described above... That actually doesn't seem too bad, especially if it catches something and prevents a future blow up. Any thoughts? And when I do the variocam pads, is there anything else that is a no brainer to replace while in there? (Timing chains? I have a 5 chain motor?) Thanks, Steve Last edited by steved0x; 02-13-2015 at 12:08 PM.