[Jake Raby]

There are a few things I don't understand here:

1) What is the nature of the load being put on the IMS? Is it bad for any engine component to apply a force opposite to this force?

Whats holding the IMS sideways in the bore is the timing chain for bank 1. That chain has load because at least one pair of cam lobes on that bank are opening valves. If you force the IMS sideways, you are stretching a chain thats already known to stretch and break. I have the only matter linked chains in the world, but they are far from cheap, if you ever need one. Also, never force anything within an engine, if it doesn't want to budge, you must find whats necessary and relieve the tension. If not, you'll be sorry.

2) Why is it important that the bearing is centered when rotating back to TDC?

Because rotating the engine ANY from the point you are at now will make the cam timing even worse, and you can crash valves into pistons. You can't get the flange back on to support the IMS, because its no longer centered in the bore, so rotating an unsupported IMS is a recipe for bigger disaster.

3) In my first post I proposed using the removal tool to center the bearing by overcoming the force from the cams. The large cylinder part of the removal tool could be used to keep the bearing centered while moving the engine back to TDC. What are the issues with this approach?

I invented and developed that tool, this was never its intended purpose. That said, you do not know how far out the cams are at the present, and you won't know if things will crash until you move the engine. Not saying this won't work, but I am saying that its not a smart approach.

Can you help me understand what exactly has gone wrong that requires retiming from scratch? Have I likely already let the chains slip (even with my 5-chain engine)?

The entire valve drive system has shifted when the flange was removed without the engine being at TDC and having the CAMS locked. Something had to move when the flange was removed, and its likely retarding bank 1. This means that the exhaust valves on that bank can crash into the pistons fairly easily, and you don't want to risk that.

Also, to "re-time from scratch," is it necessary to drop out the engine and take it apart?

No, it can be done in the chassis, engine assembled. Pull both cam covers, and have fun.

Now, do you guys see why we only sell our IMSR products through distributors supplying them to professionals? This sort of thing should be avoided at all costs, and this is not a job for the faint of heart. The learning curve is 90 degrees, and using a procedure that looks good on paper, is a lot different than one that was developed in the real world from trial and error.

I've made lots of errors, but thats what happens when you blaze the trail that leads to the super highway that everyone else decides to travel.