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Steve Tinker · 03-01-2014, 05:44 PM

Potty......
Changed mine last year and depending how supple or what tools you have makes a difference.
The removal is not difficult (I used 101 Projects for your Boxster manual) as you can loosen the old tank and pull it forward to loosen the connection hoses.
The installation is somewhat more difficult. Lots of people in the US buy the special tool that can remotely open / close the steel springs that retains the coolant pipes. Nowhere in Australia had anyone even heard of these tools, so I had to use pliars to remove the original clamps & then reinstall with screw type S/S clamps.
The only way I could push on the hoses and hold the clamps to tighten was from the bottom which means you have to remove the 2 x diagonal cross members and alloy plate under the gearbox. This was the knuckle grazing, sweat inducing part which took over an hour in 35 deg C temps just to connect the pipework.
Some people can get the clamps / pipes on from the boot (trunk), but I couldn't get enough play on the pipes to accomplish this.
Notes:
1) Be carefull with the oil filler and dipstick pipes - they become brittle with age & break easily.
2) You have to drill out the new coolant tank where the dipstick goes through - 20mm hole I think.
3) It may be a good time to check all the other coolant componants (pump, T.stat, coolant, drive belt etc) while the system is empty.
4) A helper is advantageous when replacing the pipework.
5) It took me over 5 hours to install & fill with coolant, but if I were to do it again with the right tool, maybe half that time.

03-01-2014, 05:44 PM	#4
Steve Tinker Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Queensland, Australia Posts: 1,522	Potty...... Changed mine last year and depending how supple or what tools you have makes a difference. The removal is not difficult (I used 101 Projects for your Boxster manual) as you can loosen the old tank and pull it forward to loosen the connection hoses. The installation is somewhat more difficult. Lots of people in the US buy the special tool that can remotely open / close the steel springs that retains the coolant pipes. Nowhere in Australia had anyone even heard of these tools, so I had to use pliars to remove the original clamps & then reinstall with screw type S/S clamps. The only way I could push on the hoses and hold the clamps to tighten was from the bottom which means you have to remove the 2 x diagonal cross members and alloy plate under the gearbox. This was the knuckle grazing, sweat inducing part which took over an hour in 35 deg C temps just to connect the pipework. Some people can get the clamps / pipes on from the boot (trunk), but I couldn't get enough play on the pipes to accomplish this. Notes: 1) Be carefull with the oil filler and dipstick pipes - they become brittle with age & break easily. 2) You have to drill out the new coolant tank where the dipstick goes through - 20mm hole I think. 3) It may be a good time to check all the other coolant componants (pump, T.stat, coolant, drive belt etc) while the system is empty. 4) A helper is advantageous when replacing the pipework. 5) It took me over 5 hours to install & fill with coolant, but if I were to do it again with the right tool, maybe half that time. __________________ 2001 Boxster S (triple black). Sleeping easier with LN Engineering/Flat 6 IMS upgrade, low temp thermostat & underspeed pulley. 2001 MV Agusta F4. Last edited by Steve Tinker; 03-01-2014 at 05:48 PM.