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Old 07-27-2013, 04:44 PM   #6
Spinnaker
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 735
OK, here is the final installment.
If you have been having problems with condensation on the inside of the trunk lid, even after changing the coolant tank cap to the updated one, it might be the O-ring seals under the bleeder valve. I could see a lot of white and pink dried residue around the base of the bleeder valve even after rinsing it off occasionally. After you take the bleeder valve cap off, you have to pry up the lower housing to get to the O-rings. When I first took off the cap, the housing looked like part of the whole assembly that contains all of the filler caps since it was the same color. I found a post on RennTech that explained what was going on. The O-rings that I took out were soft and mushy, so we will see if this will solve the condensation issues.
If you decide to do this job, be careful when you put the screws back in. You are threading them back into plastic and you can strip and or cross thread the screws very easily. A trick I learned a long time ago to to help avoid cross threading a screw in soft material, is to turn the screw backwards until you feel the first thread pop into place, then start tightening it. The coarse thread self tapping screws have a tendency to start biting into the plastic wherever they are started and end up crossthreaded, which will weaken the plastic and lead to a stripped out hole. You don't want to have to change a coolant tank also. The posts about changing the tank out don't sound like something you want to do unless you absolutely have to.


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