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schoir · 05-17-2012, 07:24 AM

Here is how to check the fuses, which, in this case are B6 (which allows power to go to the convertible top double relay) and D3 (which allows power to go to the electric motor):

Remove your fuse panel cover, which is the one located to the left of your left ankle as you sit in the driver's seat. Locate fuse B6, which is the sixth fuse from the left in the second row down from the top row of the fuse panel. Do the same for fuse D3 (fourth row from the top, third fuse from the left). If you look very closely at the fuse panel, you will see that the rows are numbered as well. Pull out one fuse and examine it to see if, across the top of it, the wire conductor is not broken (i.e., it is one intact piece of wire that bridges across from the left terminal to the right terminal). It's as simple as that.

Here is a photo showing the fuse panel and its location. For reference, you can see the "dead pedal" at the right of the photo. (BTW, you can use that little yellow tool that you can see in the bottom right hand corner of the fuse panel to pull out the fuses).

This second photo shows the location of the relay tray. The double relay in this photo can be seen in the top right corner. For reference, you can also see the top of the fuse panel at the bottom left of the photo.

Also, by pulling the fuse out and reinstalling it, that sometimes cleans off a little bit of the surface corrosion that can build up on the spades and that will sometimes make the connection.

Applying that same principle, locate the convertible top double relay (your "SmartTop" relay in this case). That one is located in the relay tray which is above that same fuse panel. It's the only double relay in the tray, so you can't miss it. Then pull the relay off and push it back on a few times (to clean some of the surface corrosion). If that doesn't work, pull the double relay off and give it a couple of whacks against a hard surface (similar to what people used to do with cigarette packs, but instead of smacking it against your hand, do it on a hard surface). That will sometimes revive a relay that has some very mild corrosion inside that is preventing contacts from opening or closing.

If neither one of the above work, if you have your old original relay, try inserting that one in the place of the SmartTop relay and see if you get any results.

If all of the above yield no results, apply 12 volts directly to the convertible top electric motor (located just forward of the the third brake light, in the convertible top well) to test whether there is indeed a dead spot on the motor. You can also sometimes revive an electric motor by smacking it sharply with a very small hammer. That used to work really well on MG Midgets fuel pumps

.

Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

05-17-2012, 07:24 AM	#11
schoir Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Freeport, New York Posts: 471	Here is how to check the fuses, which, in this case are B6 (which allows power to go to the convertible top double relay) and D3 (which allows power to go to the electric motor): Remove your fuse panel cover, which is the one located to the left of your left ankle as you sit in the driver's seat. Locate fuse B6, which is the sixth fuse from the left in the second row down from the top row of the fuse panel. Do the same for fuse D3 (fourth row from the top, third fuse from the left). If you look very closely at the fuse panel, you will see that the rows are numbered as well. Pull out one fuse and examine it to see if, across the top of it, the wire conductor is not broken (i.e., it is one intact piece of wire that bridges across from the left terminal to the right terminal). It's as simple as that. Here is a photo showing the fuse panel and its location. For reference, you can see the "dead pedal" at the right of the photo. (BTW, you can use that little yellow tool that you can see in the bottom right hand corner of the fuse panel to pull out the fuses). This second photo shows the location of the relay tray. The double relay in this photo can be seen in the top right corner. For reference, you can also see the top of the fuse panel at the bottom left of the photo. Also, by pulling the fuse out and reinstalling it, that sometimes cleans off a little bit of the surface corrosion that can build up on the spades and that will sometimes make the connection. Applying that same principle, locate the convertible top double relay (your "SmartTop" relay in this case). That one is located in the relay tray which is above that same fuse panel. It's the only double relay in the tray, so you can't miss it. Then pull the relay off and push it back on a few times (to clean some of the surface corrosion). If that doesn't work, pull the double relay off and give it a couple of whacks against a hard surface (similar to what people used to do with cigarette packs, but instead of smacking it against your hand, do it on a hard surface). That will sometimes revive a relay that has some very mild corrosion inside that is preventing contacts from opening or closing. If neither one of the above work, if you have your old original relay, try inserting that one in the place of the SmartTop relay and see if you get any results. If all of the above yield no results, apply 12 volts directly to the convertible top electric motor (located just forward of the the third brake light, in the convertible top well) to test whether there is indeed a dead spot on the motor. You can also sometimes revive an electric motor by smacking it sharply with a very small hammer. That used to work really well on MG Midgets fuel pumps . Keep us posted. Regards, Maurice.