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It's not too horribly difficult. Obviously you need to be able to get under the car, so you need jack stands or a lift. You'll also be working through the access panel behind the seats. Some bolts are easier to reach from there, some from underneath. I worked on mine at the same time as I updated my front motor mount, tasks that kind of go hand-in-hand. I say that because each job requires removal of stuff that opens things up for the other job.
Timing-wise, do a search. Jake Raby has chimed in on the matter on numerous occasions. He recommends changing the pump out every few years---I don't remember the number, maybe 4-5?? This whether the car is driven few or many miles. The life span of the OEM pumps seems really variable: I've heard of them going up to close to 100k. I've also heard of them crapping out at a quarter of that mileage (ask husker boxster). When people drive them until they fail, it seems like it averages in the 60-75k range. Mine went at 58.4k.
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