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schoir · 05-02-2012, 11:06 AM

First, you should check to make sure you have not hit a "dead spot" on the armature of the convertible top drive electric motor. Apply 12 volts directly to the motor to test it and use a multimeter to check whether you are actually getting the 12 volts at the electric motor from the switch on the dashboard through the wiring harness.

Then, double check the two fuses that you checked visually by using a multimeter there as well, as one of them also provides power to the double relay. Those fuses should be B6 (supplies power to the convertible top double relay) and D3 (supplies power to the convertible top drive electric motor).

Also, make sure that you have cleaned any corrosion off the contacts of the fuses and of the double relay.

If the three above items (the two fuses and the electric motor) check out, then the most likely suspect is the other one of the two microswitches that are located in the latch receptacle in the windshield frame.

There are two microswitches in the latch receptacle assembly. There is one on the left side of the assembly (has a large plunger that juts out when the latch is open). That one controls the 4" window drop that occurs immediately when you pull down the latch to open the top. There is another one on the right side of the assembly, and that is the one that activates the convertible top double relay.

My guess is that the latter switch is faulty/intermittent, even though it may appear to be intact when you visually inspect it, and sometimes even when you test it with a multimeter. Specifically, take a close look at the solder joints where the leads attach to the plug. This can be hard to detect, so check it with a magnifying glass for hairline cracks in the solder joint and for corrosion. If necessary, heat up the connections with a soldering iron and flow a tiny bit of solder onto the suspect joint(s).

Also, believe it or not, the temperature (sun light, A/C blowing on it, etc...) can affect it to the point where the connection is broken and then re-established.

To gain access to the microswitch you have to remove the latch plate at the center of the windshield frame. Pop out the two little black plastic "eyes" by carefully prying them off with a very small flat blade screwdriver or borrow one of those "orange sticks" that women use on their fingernails to pry them out. Remove the small torx bolt that you will find under each one of the two eyes. Remove them and then pull down the latch plate carefully until you can see and access the wires for the switch and for the light. Unplug the wires and the latch plate will come off. You will find two fragile retaining clips that attach the switch to the underside of the latch plate. These are easy to break, so use a pair of small needle nose pliers to pull them off, very gently. You can reuse these if you are careful by squeezing the cross sections that are located at the center of the clips until they are flattened.

Please keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

05-02-2012, 11:06 AM	#4
schoir Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Freeport, New York Posts: 471	First, you should check to make sure you have not hit a "dead spot" on the armature of the convertible top drive electric motor. Apply 12 volts directly to the motor to test it and use a multimeter to check whether you are actually getting the 12 volts at the electric motor from the switch on the dashboard through the wiring harness. Then, double check the two fuses that you checked visually by using a multimeter there as well, as one of them also provides power to the double relay. Those fuses should be B6 (supplies power to the convertible top double relay) and D3 (supplies power to the convertible top drive electric motor). Also, make sure that you have cleaned any corrosion off the contacts of the fuses and of the double relay. If the three above items (the two fuses and the electric motor) check out, then the most likely suspect is the other one of the two microswitches that are located in the latch receptacle in the windshield frame. There are two microswitches in the latch receptacle assembly. There is one on the left side of the assembly (has a large plunger that juts out when the latch is open). That one controls the 4" window drop that occurs immediately when you pull down the latch to open the top. There is another one on the right side of the assembly, and that is the one that activates the convertible top double relay. My guess is that the latter switch is faulty/intermittent, even though it may appear to be intact when you visually inspect it, and sometimes even when you test it with a multimeter. Specifically, take a close look at the solder joints where the leads attach to the plug. This can be hard to detect, so check it with a magnifying glass for hairline cracks in the solder joint and for corrosion. If necessary, heat up the connections with a soldering iron and flow a tiny bit of solder onto the suspect joint(s). Also, believe it or not, the temperature (sun light, A/C blowing on it, etc...) can affect it to the point where the connection is broken and then re-established. To gain access to the microswitch you have to remove the latch plate at the center of the windshield frame. Pop out the two little black plastic "eyes" by carefully prying them off with a very small flat blade screwdriver or borrow one of those "orange sticks" that women use on their fingernails to pry them out. Remove the small torx bolt that you will find under each one of the two eyes. Remove them and then pull down the latch plate carefully until you can see and access the wires for the switch and for the light. Unplug the wires and the latch plate will come off. You will find two fragile retaining clips that attach the switch to the underside of the latch plate. These are easy to break, so use a pair of small needle nose pliers to pull them off, very gently. You can reuse these if you are careful by squeezing the cross sections that are located at the center of the clips until they are flattened. Please keep us posted. Regards, Maurice.