Project update

[redpepperracing]

I didn't think this was appropriate for the DIY project forum, since I'm not really going to explain how I did anything, just what I did. It's been a 2 1/2 year process from when I got the check engine light and determined my variocam pads were worn out to now, and almost being ready to put it back on the road. There was a lot of down time since I got frustrated with the process, and the seemingly daunting amount of work, but thanks to some prodding and lots assistance from my buddy, we got it done, and now it's down to the minor details. It's a 2000 base Boxster 2.7, now with the following mods/upgrades, from front to rear;
- 3rd rad (kit from ECS)
- front and rear sway bars (Eibach)
- front and rear shocks (Koni)
- front adjustable sway bar end links (homemade)
- electric power steering conversion
- AC delete
- 987 150A alternator
- 996 intake manifold and runners
- 987 throttle body
- 987 air intake and BMC filter
- 996 oil heat exchanger
- new coolant reservoir
- new coolant hoses (rear)
- SAI delete
- 160 degree thermostat
- hardened steel oil drive
- 996 oil pressure spring
- new variocam pads (duh)
- new timing chain tensioners and new chains
- new spark plugs
- adjustable trans mounts
- adjustable shift linkage (homemade)
- Numeric custom length shift cables
- BAD shifter

Items to complete: AEM wideband install, custom exhaust, braided steel brake lines, custom tune

And probably some more stuff I'm forgetting. Anyway, here are some pictures:

Front end with homemade grills:


Intake manifold:


Adjustable end link:


Electric powering steering


Short serpentine belt:


Throttle body:


Shifter and cables:

[redpepperracing]

I can't forget the custom coolant tubes my buddy made by welding the stock 986 and 996 tubes together for the 3rd rad conversion:


You can also sort of see the 3d printed hose clamps I made since all of them broke when I took them out originally. Also obviously the power steering lines, which I have not checked for tire clearance yet, fingers crossed...

[Qingdao]

Cool progress, tasteful upgrades.


Your shifter cables..... Did the company that made them give you and option of getting longer cables made?


My next 986 is gonna be a bit longer, and shifter cable length is bound to be one of my issues. I kinda thought about extending the rod section inside the cabin, but I don't think that is going to be long enough of an extension that I will require. I need like 3'.

[redpepperracing]

Yes, Numeric made them for me and I believe they were 2 inches longer than their stock 986 length. I needed the extra length because the 996 intake is taller, so I had to lower the engine and trans, and the stock cables were too tight for my liking. I didn't know Numeric actually made custom cables, I had just sent them an email asking about the cables, and they called me about 30 minutes after I left the message and he told me they can make them any length you need. I believe they charged me $75 for the customization, but he also discounted the cables by about half that so it was reasonable enough for what you get. The ones I got are a bit too long, but I was guessing on what I needed. It's better than them still being too short, so if you can get a good handle on the exact length you need, they can build them to suit your requirements.

[Marc_986]

Really nice to see this project!

And some questions straight away as you know I have some similar features in my car..

- Did you already get a chance to test with this belt routing? My engine will also be without AC and PowerSteering pump, so I guess that is the same as yours. I was considering to put the AC compressor back just to function as an idler. In your routing, you now have the tenstioner on the 'wrong' side of the belt if I see it correctly. Typically the tensioners are on the return side of the belt where there is no load on it, just the tensioner taking up any slack.

- You mention you have lowered the transmission and engine together. How did you do that and did you have to modify the chunky brace between both control arms? My upcoming V8 might also require me to lower, but there doesn't seem much space till I hit this brace.

- Just for my interest; why did you go for the third radiator? I sort of went the other way and focused on increased flow (less pressure drop) to the existing radiators by using the Boxster S pipes and hoses. I used two additional simple radiator hoses to avoind the T-piece going to the center radiator. I actually do have the third radiator around here with bracket, ducting and hoses...

Really interested to hear your experience with all the upgrades when you do have it back on the road. Close now!

[redpepperracing]

Hi Marc, happy to help in any way I can! For the belt routing, I have run the car a bit, but only on the lift, so time will tell. If you use the stock wire from the battery to the starter/alternator connection, make sure you route it properly! I was careless and it was rubbing on the belt, luckily it only rubbed the outer plastic wrap, not the cable, but if I hadn't noticed it, it could have been quite bad. If it comes to it I'll put an idler pulley where the AC compressor or PS pump was. Luckily my buddy is a welder/fabricator.

Lowering the engine and trans was accomplished through 3 things, first my buddy made some spacers (6mm if I recall correctly) for the front engine mount, and for the trans I used the 986/987 mounts from PRG Products which are stock replacement, but if you flip the bushings it will lower the trans. The last thing is I massaged both the plastic intake manifold (took off a bit of the edge with a reciprocating tool) and the firewall (with an air hammer) to get a bit more clearance as I didn't want to lower the engine more than I had to. Which reminds me, I also put on a Mantis deep sump oil pan, which lowers the pan a fair bit, so I wanted to minimize the drop. I did not modify any of the bracing in any way, and did not see any clearance issues.

For the cooling, I do track the car occasionally so I want the best possible system. From looking at your pictures, my tubes down the middle of the car appear to be the same as the ones you installed, I just added the third rad into the mix, along with the lower temp thermostat.

Can't wait to get it on the road, I am very close, just finishing up refitting the rear end body pieces, and some wiring, although the wiring is not crucial, just some future stuff I want to do. Throw the seats back in, wheels on, and test drive! Once the weather co-operates, of course, still minus 5C here today.

[Newsguy]

I’ve thought about those 996 intake runners as well, but discounted it due to the increased height. Does your engine cover still fit?
As far as cooling, you might try that procedure opening the fender liner behind the rads as outlined in the Pelican DIY site.

[redpepperracing]

It fit with the stock shift cables, with the longer Numeric ones I might have to massage it a bit. Hoping not though. I'll look into the fender liner mod as well, thanks!

[redpepperracing]

Originally Posted by Newsguy

I’ve thought about those 996 intake runners as well, but discounted it due to the increased height. Does your engine cover still fit?
As far as cooling, you might try that procedure opening the fender liner behind the rads as outlined in the Pelican DIY site.

An update for you. The engine cover...fits. It is tight, but I think that's mostly the shift cables. I may try and snake a camera up there now that it's on see if I can figure out where it is tight.

As for the fender liner, I did some research and went one better and added the 997 upper brake ducts:



Everything is pretty much buttoned up now, just need to put the wheels back on and drop it off the quickjacks. It will need an alignment since I did all the shocks, but hopefully it's not too far out.

It's been a long 2.5 year process, now if it would only stop snowing...

[Marc_986]

Interesting to see those 997 ducts. Can you tell how they look towards radiator? Stock 986 has some awful plastic 'channel' to direct air down to a small hole as outlet. So you have modified this part, right? The balance would be between letting air into the wheel well (out of the radiator) without risking radiator damage (by stones / stuff kicked up by the wheel.

Especially interested as, so far, I have kept the third radiator out of my plans with the intention of making better use of the side radiators by improving the flow out of the radiators.

[redpepperracing]

Correct, I did modify the rear radiator shroud and wheel liner. Here is an after pic of the rad shroud with the cutout areas highlighted:



I don't think there would be much risk of stones/debris hitting the radiator, I would think most of that would be directed towards the back of the car. If I get ambitious I'll put some aluminum mesh there to protect it better.

Got the wheels on and got it off the jacks for the first time in 2.5 years, I have a suspension alignment booked, so just some final wiring and tuning to finish up and it will be done. Well, who am I kidding, it will never be done, but at least it should be drivable now, assuming I haven't completely cocked something up.