|
Hi Marc, happy to help in any way I can! For the belt routing, I have run the car a bit, but only on the lift, so time will tell. If you use the stock wire from the battery to the starter/alternator connection, make sure you route it properly! I was careless and it was rubbing on the belt, luckily it only rubbed the outer plastic wrap, not the cable, but if I hadn't noticed it, it could have been quite bad. If it comes to it I'll put an idler pulley where the AC compressor or PS pump was. Luckily my buddy is a welder/fabricator.
Lowering the engine and trans was accomplished through 3 things, first my buddy made some spacers (6mm if I recall correctly) for the front engine mount, and for the trans I used the 986/987 mounts from PRG Products which are stock replacement, but if you flip the bushings it will lower the trans. The last thing is I massaged both the plastic intake manifold (took off a bit of the edge with a reciprocating tool) and the firewall (with an air hammer) to get a bit more clearance as I didn't want to lower the engine more than I had to. Which reminds me, I also put on a Mantis deep sump oil pan, which lowers the pan a fair bit, so I wanted to minimize the drop. I did not modify any of the bracing in any way, and did not see any clearance issues.
For the cooling, I do track the car occasionally so I want the best possible system. From looking at your pictures, my tubes down the middle of the car appear to be the same as the ones you installed, I just added the third rad into the mix, along with the lower temp thermostat.
Can't wait to get it on the road, I am very close, just finishing up refitting the rear end body pieces, and some wiring, although the wiring is not crucial, just some future stuff I want to do. Throw the seats back in, wheels on, and test drive! Once the weather co-operates, of course, still minus 5C here today.
|