Blue boxster resurrection project

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

... For the bearing: actually, both. A roller and there`s a ball bearing behind for trust control. There are more pictures of them if you go back a few pages.

I just read it. Pretty impressive! You should sell the kit for $1800


Also, I see you went with open bearings. You're confident they'll get enough lubrication? Don't take it the wrong way, I'm just trying to pick your brain in the event I decide to change mine.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by piper6909

I just read it. Pretty impressive! You should sell the kit for $1800


Also, I see you went with open bearings. You're confident they'll get enough lubrication? Don't take it the wrong way, I'm just trying to pick your brain in the event I decide to change mine.

Lol, just simple bearings I had machined to size. Actually, I made the groove for the circlip myself with a custom made grinder

Yes, I`m pretty confident. The IMS literally swims in engine oil. If you go back in the thread I posted some measurements about the oil level. Even though the level dropped a lot, the sprocket is still spinning in oil and should supply the bearing with splashed oil. Also, I added an extra oil channel as well that supplies the bearing with oil directly from the back, just in case, it`s pictured too, if you go back to that section.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Lol, just simple bearings I had machined to size. Actually, I made the groove for the circlip myself with a custom made grinder

Don't sell yourself short. It's a pretty ingenious solution.

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Yes, I`m pretty confident. The IMS literally swims in engine oil. If you go back in the thread I posted some measurements about the oil level. Even though the level dropped a lot, the sprocket is still spinning in oil and should supply the bearing with splashed oil. Also, I added an extra oil channel as well that supplies the bearing with oil directly from the back, just in case, it`s pictured too, if you go back to that section.

I'll have to check it out.

[Homeoboxter]

I worked a bit on the valve lifters last weekend. I`ve never seen or heard this car run, so I can`t tell if they were noisy. I didn`t want to reassemble the heads with bad lifters because pulling them out with the engine in the car seems a huge PITA. (I might still have to do that.) A plausable choice would be to replace all lifters to new ones, but when I realized that this would be over $500 I decided to rebuild them.

They were all in good condition, with no measurable wear. What usually causes problems in these is the check valve, that gets dirty over time and won`t close anymore, so the lifter collapses, resulting lifter ticking and other subsequent problems.

Taking them apart is not difficult but requires some patience and cautiousness so the tiny bits won`t get lost, and you need a system so you don`t mix them all up. This is all the parts you find inside a lifter, in case you were wondering:




You need a tweezer and a little pin to handle the tiny parts safely.



I cleaned all parts with gas, then with brake cleaner, then with compressed air. Disassembly and cleaning takes about half an hour at the first one. The required time gradually decreases for the next ones. The 24th will only take a few seconds



The oil that came out from the lifter housing was really dirty and used. In a few of them I found some solid gunk too, so I think it was a good decision not to just put them back like they were.



This is the seat for the ball, if it gets dirty, the valve won`t hold pressure.





After they are cleaned and reasembled, time for a good bath in fresh oil. Baby food jars serve well for this purpose, and you won`t mix up the lifters. The best is if all go back to where they originally were.

[Homeoboxter]

Camshafts been patiently waiting for almost two years now. Time to go back into the heads!



After cleaning everything meticulously, I just spot this piece of camchain guard stuck in the scavanging oil channel. Quite amazing.



Lifters back in their original positions.



Crucial parts like camshafts are marked in the factory, you just have to follow the signs to avoid mistakes. Intake camshaft for bank 1-3 is shown.



Unlike the originals, the new chains are not labeled for timing, so I copy-pasted the marks.



Six links should be left between the timing dots on the two sprockets.



Compressing the actuator.



And securing it with a 5mm bolt. Other engines need left-threaded bolts, mine needed a normal threaded bolt, thankfully.



This unit is for bank 4-6.

[Homeoboxter]

I measured the resistance of the solenoids with an Ohm-meter. Both turned out fine. This is all the distance that the solenoid`s pin travels when powered on.




Crankshaft fixed at TDC.



Camshafts pulled down and locked at TDC with the locking tool. This tool is not really necessary because the timing can be set simply with a ruler, but if the kit includes it I thought I might as well use it.




Once timing is set, the camshafts can be held down with this tool that allows for replacing the valve cover.




Long block is done.





I`m really happy with this cheap tool set from ebay. It has almost everything needed to assemble this engine. It`s worth every penny (~$80) and saves a lot of time.

[pilot4fn]

Real nicely built an ddocumented project makes me want to rebuilt my 2.7 my self when it needs that one day (maybe all chain ramps, chain tensioners, IMS, cutch & FW first...), instead of having local indy to do these.