Circlip seating for piston #5 and #4, respectively.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/V_21589343966.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02/IV1589343994.jpg

All pistons are back in their original positions with new rings.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1589344090.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1589344119.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1589344149.jpg

Wow, every time I visit this thread I'm more impressed!

Looking forward to the first start up :D

Thanks, yeah, I`m looking forward to it too, as you can imagine :) Still lot of things left to do.

Got some gaskets and other stuff from Pelican. Time to move on with the engine.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590646809.jpg

New crankshaft seal.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590646831.jpg

I don`t have the insertion tool, so I simply used the old seal and a spacer made of two used bearing shells to drive the new seal in the engine case with the pulley and its bolt.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590647250.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590646927.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590646975.jpg


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590646993.jpg

The original waterpump looks like new, so I decided to put it back in with a new gasket.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590647030.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590647065.jpg

Same for these chain guides, they have very little wear. They should be fine with new chains.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590648209.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590647106.jpg

Just a couple of random things for today, such as
cam chain and rails are fitted with the sprocket:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590803504.jpg

Oil pump went back on.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590803539.jpg

Pick up screen and oil return lines with air- oil separators are cleaned, reassembled and bolted back on.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590803588.jpg

At least one side of the engine is sealed now, so now I don`t have to wipe the oil puddles off the floor so often.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590803616.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1590803639.jpg

I could allocate some time recently to work on the heads. If you follow this post from the beginning you may remember that timing got messed up in this car and pistons contacted the valves in bank 123. However, the valves looked perfect, no visible damage whatsoever. So the heads were rebuilt and ready to go. Yet, it`s been a long time since I lapped the valves and reassembled the heads, just enough time to get paranoid about it. What if the valves somehow got damaged due to the impact from hitting the piston head even if it`s not visible and will get stuck in its bore and seize? Very unlikely, but I wanted to sleep well, so I ordered new valves from Pelican, lapped them and reassembled the head. Again.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592363990.jpg

I checked the seating with this classic method when you pour gas on the valves and see how long it takes for it to leak down. After an hour it was still in the chambers, so it should be ok.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592364059.jpg

Then I inspected the heads for deterioration/possible warpage. I placed a straight edge on the cleaned surface and tried which is the thickest feeler gauge that I can slide in between the straight edge and the head. The thickest was 0.03mm. In the shop manual this is exactly the highest tolerated value for a freshly resurfaced head. The tolerance for a used head that you still can put back on is 0.05mm. So that`s great, no need to take the heads to the machine shop.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592364083.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592364100.jpg

I inspected the head bolts. These are stretch bolts, so you must replace them if they are stretched over their limit, i.e. they won`t be able to produce the same clamping force any more. There is no specification about this in the shop manual, but it is also not stated if these bolts should not be reused. So I ordered one brand new bolt and compared its thickness and length to the used ones. There was no significant difference between them, so I concluded they should have one more round. Yes, I`m cheap, I know.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592364139.jpg

I had good results with this brand so I went with this.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592364159.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592364181.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592364292.jpg

Looks like a few bubbles got trapped during the casting procedure. Another day when the quality control guy was on vacation. Luckily it`s not a critical spot on the head.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592364329.jpg

Now it starts looking like a flat engine, or as they call it where I came from, a boxer.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592364371.jpg

Nice job! Please keep updating your progress.

I usually pour the gasoline down the ports; gives the gas more head pressure to test for leaks.

Lookin sharp. :D

Thanks! If you pour gas in the ports, isn`t it difficult to tell which valve is leaking?

Thanks, there`s a few more things to add, I`ll upload some pics soon.

I took the engine off from the engine stand and placed it on the workbench to get access to the rear side. It`s getting very heavy now and I almost managed to drop it when one of the straps snapped. I`ll double the straps or switch to some heavy duty chain from now on.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592804990.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592805009.jpg

IMS flange is refitted with new O-rings and a bit of sealant.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592805025.jpg

Time to fit the tensioner. There are three tensioners in this engine, they are all alike, but not the same. They are identified with the number of rings, 1, 0, or 2, hard to mix them up. Pretty thoughtful.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592805041.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592805068.jpg

New O-ring and aluminum gasket.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592805106.jpg

Now to the rear main seal. I needed a tool here so I went to a local hardware store to find something I can use.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592805122.jpg

And I found this. (Without the holes of course.) It`s an end cap for some PVC drain tube, exactly the same size as the RMS. This is my lucky day..

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592805140.jpg

After cutting it to size, it worked perfectly using the flywheel bolts and the old seal as a guide.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592805234.jpg

Hopefully it won`t leak.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592805315.jpg

They leak slowly. You can see the moister coming from the leaky valve and then you can investigate further.

With new laped in valves you shouldn't have any issues.


Looks like you got it covered though. Should be a fun reliable engine :D

Nice work! I could never get that deep into a motor. I've Thought about doing a ring job on a Subaru motor, but when I saw what's all involved, I just decided to change the bottom end. I just do head gaskets and timing belts. haha. That gives me great appreciation for what you're doing!

By the way, is that a ball or roller bearing you chose for the IMS?

Yeah, I can understand that :) It`s time consuming and lots of things may come up along the way that you didn`t think of. But at least then you know what you put into the engine, so you can only blame yourself if it falls apart :) For the bearing: actually, both. A roller and there`s a ball bearing behind for trust control. There are more pictures of them if you go back a few pages.

Oh, well, we`ll see that :)

I just read it. Pretty impressive! You should sell the kit for $1800 ;)


Also, I see you went with open bearings. You're confident they'll get enough lubrication? Don't take it the wrong way, I'm just trying to pick your brain in the event I decide to change mine.

Lol, just simple bearings I had machined to size. Actually, I made the groove for the circlip myself with a custom made grinder :)

Yes, I`m pretty confident. The IMS literally swims in engine oil. If you go back in the thread I posted some measurements about the oil level. Even though the level dropped a lot, the sprocket is still spinning in oil and should supply the bearing with splashed oil. Also, I added an extra oil channel as well that supplies the bearing with oil directly from the back, just in case, it`s pictured too, if you go back to that section.

Don't sell yourself short. It's a pretty ingenious solution. ;)

I'll have to check it out.

I worked a bit on the valve lifters last weekend. I`ve never seen or heard this car run, so I can`t tell if they were noisy. I didn`t want to reassemble the heads with bad lifters because pulling them out with the engine in the car seems a huge PITA. (I might still have to do that.) A plausable choice would be to replace all lifters to new ones, but when I realized that this would be over $500 I decided to rebuild them.

They were all in good condition, with no measurable wear. What usually causes problems in these is the check valve, that gets dirty over time and won`t close anymore, so the lifter collapses, resulting lifter ticking and other subsequent problems.

Taking them apart is not difficult but requires some patience and cautiousness so the tiny bits won`t get lost, and you need a system so you don`t mix them all up. This is all the parts you find inside a lifter, in case you were wondering:


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592965135.jpg

You need a tweezer and a little pin to handle the tiny parts safely.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592965186.jpg

I cleaned all parts with gas, then with brake cleaner, then with compressed air. Disassembly and cleaning takes about half an hour at the first one. The required time gradually decreases for the next ones. The 24th will only take a few seconds :)

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592965207.jpg

The oil that came out from the lifter housing was really dirty and used. In a few of them I found some solid gunk too, so I think it was a good decision not to just put them back like they were.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592965224.jpg

This is the seat for the ball, if it gets dirty, the valve won`t hold pressure.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592965239.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592965252.jpg

After they are cleaned and reasembled, time for a good bath in fresh oil. Baby food jars serve well for this purpose, and you won`t mix up the lifters. The best is if all go back to where they originally were.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1592965266.jpg

Camshafts been patiently waiting for almost two years now. Time to go back into the heads!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595395071.jpg

After cleaning everything meticulously, I just spot this piece of camchain guard stuck in the scavanging oil channel. Quite amazing.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595395087.jpg

Lifters back in their original positions.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595395148.jpg

Crucial parts like camshafts are marked in the factory, you just have to follow the signs to avoid mistakes. Intake camshaft for bank 1-3 is shown.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595395193.jpg

Unlike the originals, the new chains are not labeled for timing, so I copy-pasted the marks.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595395214.jpg

Six links should be left between the timing dots on the two sprockets.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595395250.jpg

Compressing the actuator.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595395462.jpg

And securing it with a 5mm bolt. Other engines need left-threaded bolts, mine needed a normal threaded bolt, thankfully.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595395509.jpg

This unit is for bank 4-6.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595395542.jpg

I measured the resistance of the solenoids with an Ohm-meter. Both turned out fine. This is all the distance that the solenoid`s pin travels when powered on.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595652218.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595652238.jpg

Crankshaft fixed at TDC.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595654120.jpg

Camshafts pulled down and locked at TDC with the locking tool. This tool is not really necessary because the timing can be set simply with a ruler, but if the kit includes it I thought I might as well use it.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595652447.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595652473.jpg

Once timing is set, the camshafts can be held down with this tool that allows for replacing the valve cover.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595652505.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595653759.jpg

Long block is done.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595653712.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595652544.jpg

I`m really happy with this cheap tool set from ebay. It has almost everything needed to assemble this engine. It`s worth every penny (~$80) and saves a lot of time.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595652597.jpg

Real nicely built an ddocumented project :cheers: makes me want to rebuilt my 2.7 my self when it needs that one day (maybe all chain ramps, chain tensioners, IMS, cutch & FW first...), instead of having local indy to do these.

NICE. :cheers:

Now for the nitty gritty; put that thing back up in there and DRIVE. :D

I LOVE this thread!
Well done sir!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Thanks, Guys. Yeah, it`s coming along nicely, I think I`ll be able to put the engine back in the chassis in a couple weeks. There`s still a lot to do though. For instance, I just realized that several parts of the secondary air injection system (SAI) have to be replaced. Looks like everything that has an abbreviated name (SAI, AOS, RMS, IMS, DMF) in this car needs attention at least after 100k miles. Or conversely, they are abbreviated because they frequently fail? :confused: Next time before I buy a car, I`ll look into the forums and if I see too many acronyms I`ll just walk away :D

Sai
 

Ok, so I made the same mistake again, for some reason I thought that the car had been running fine before the timing failed, so everything else should be ok. I was wrong, of course.

Luckily I borrowed a Mityvac vacuum tester for some other purpose from a friend, and I thought I check the components of the secondary air injection system, or SAI, just in case. The vacuum reservoir tested out fine, it holds the vacuum perfectly.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911071.jpg

The change-over valve failed though.. Vacuum should open a diaphragm inside which opens a valve for the air flow. This one here does nothing.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911097.jpg

It looks surprisingly clean inside.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911123.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911147.jpg

Ok, this is where the vacuum escaped..

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911175.jpg

The next component in the system is the check valve. It`s a simple rectifying valve that won`t let the exhaust gas going backwards toward the check valve. I blew some air in it, went through freely from both sides. Not a good sign.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911325.jpg

Inside. Not too healthy.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911197.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911220.jpg

Both the check valve and the change over valve cost over $100 each. Great... After some digging, I found an old thread with some excellent info about the Mercedes SAI being very similar to the Boxster`s. After subtracting the Porsche tax, they came out much cheaper.

Check valve, porsche vs. Mercedes. They look identical.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911368.jpg

Change over valve, Porsche (left, destroyed) vs Mercedes. The vacuum line inlet is rotated 90 degrees and the housing is plastic instead of aluminum, but it`s made for the same purpose in a German car, so it should work. Thanks, Particlewave, for the tip!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1595911244.jpg

Nice work! I'm surprised a Mercedes part is significantly cheaper than a Porsche part!

Thank you! Well, the original parts are made by Denso, and the replacements are MTC, which is a cheaper brand, hence the big difference (3-4 times). But the genuine Mercedes vs. Porsche part pricing seems to be significantly different too for the same part.

Could you post the MB part numbers (check valve and change over valve) you used instead of Porsche? I'm lookin to swap these parts during next winter.

Sure, here are the ebay links:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-R107-W124-W126-R129-W140-W201-Air-Injection-Valve-MTC-000-140-77-60/271827041358?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Pump-Check-Valve-MTC-Secondary-Air-Injection-Pump-Check-Valve-WD-Express/114024716057?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649

I found another one, which seems to be the same exact part Porsche uses, FYI:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-R107-W124-W126-R129-W140-W201-Air-Injection-Valve-Shut-off-Valve/370820859705?fits=Make%3AMercedes-Benz&epid=1911251163&hash=item5656a54739:g:8mUAAOS wgv5ZVnyW

Fantastic, thanks :cheers:

Few more updates for today, new SAI system and a couple more parts back on the top of the engine:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1598331881.jpg

Next is the wiring harness which was in a rough shape with stripped wires, broken connectors, cables completely chewed apart by some critters during the eleven year nap. I pulled this connector for the MAF sensor from a junkyard and soldered it back on the harness:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1598331977.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1598332004.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1598332031.jpg

Rebuilt harness with fixed connectors and resleeved wires, ready to go:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1598332051.jpg

I took the engine off of the stand and put it on my desk so I can tackle the clutch and the flywheel. I fabricated a simple tool to lock the flywheel for tightening the bolts. It has to withstand 25Nm plus 110 degrees turn on those 8 bolts.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1598332090.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1598332139.jpg

After torquing the bolts down I realized that the new clutch set includes a new needle bearing for the transmission`s input shaft. Of course it would have been much easier to replace it when the flywheel was off... Fortunately I had bought a blind hole inner bearing puller for the IMS:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1598332195.jpg

After carefully heating up the bore (I didn`t want to fry the RMS behind the flywheel with the heat gun) and freezing the bearing it went in with not too much hassle:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1598332295.jpg

Kind of getting lost in the details again and spending way more time on this project than required I wanted to prime the oil circulation system and inspect the variocam operation before I put the engine back in the car. I have a spare pump that I was not gonna reuse so I rebuilt it into a pump that can be driven externally with a drill.

I removed the hexagonal drive shaft to disconnect it from the IMS.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1599405806.jpg

And attached a drive shaft onto the other side (and the other gear).

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1599405512.jpg

Drilled the housing through.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1599405547.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1599405570.jpg

Here`s how it looks.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1599405590.jpg

Besides filling the system with oil, it also allowed me to get an insight into how much the oil level drops in the engine when the oil pump runs. After driving the pump for about a minute and re-inserting the dipstick the change in the level is only a few millimeters (on the dipstick). So I`m pretty confident now that the fully opened IMSB won`t be starving oil.

As for the variocam, I`ll upload a new video soon.
Happy Sunday!

I LOVE using heat when installing bearings and press fittings. I started using heat to the extreem to press in ball joints at work last year. I used to just use a ball joint press, but now I just cherry red the spindle and pop the joint in by hand. Then cool the crap out of the joint asap (yes I have melted the plastic bushings in the spherical joint once). It makes for a PERFECT press fit.

Yeah, heat/cooling is a gentle way of assembling parts. When I work on motorcycle engines I just heat up the cases in the oven and just drop the cold bearings in the bores and they slide right in. The less force the better :)

Accessories
 

Accessories are coming together. I spent some time on sorting out the routing of all the cables, wires and hoses. The pictures I took two years ago were very very helpful, much more useful than the notes I made and I don`t remember what I meant with them :D

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600666974.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600667031.jpg

Order in the disorder.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600667053.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600667082.jpg

New gaskets, O-rings, plugs, thermostat, etc. Several rounds from Pelican since I always forget about something. At least now I have several wine vouchers as well...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600667099.jpg

New clutch.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600668181.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600667170.jpg

Cleaning/testing injectors.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600668014.jpg


Cheers!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600667224.jpg

Very nice :cheers:

Thanks!

My engine mount was cracked so I got a new Lemforder insert and took the whole stuff to the nearest shop to get them swapped. They were willing to press it out and press the new one in for $60. I still can`t get used to the Bay Area prices. So I decided to do it myself. It was a huge pain and I spent way more time on it than it`s worth, so probably that was not the best decision, but hindsight is always 20/20.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600920806.jpg

Heating up the aluminum housing as if it made a difference.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600920820.jpg

This is my setup: I went to autozone and rented a wheel bearing puller set that I combined with my vise.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600920835.jpg

There was a great chance that I would break the vise using this meter long extension, but actually it survived.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600921308.jpg

Everything is possible, just have to force it.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600921323.jpg

I`m stronger, told you...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600921341.jpg

For assembling I was gonna save some manpower and dropped the insert in the freezer overnight and heated the housing in the oven before the action.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600921350.jpg

It helped, it was definitely easier, still a hassle though.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600920861.jpg

Time to give it some vibration :)

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1600920871.jpg

I think you are supposed to bolt that vise to a work bench... I could be wrong. LOL


I typically burn the old bushings out in this type of scenario.

Yeah, that vise has been like that since I moved here from my previous place... Maybe once the Porsche engine is off the bench!

If I burned out the bushing I`d end up with a steel cyilinder in an aluminum bore that I still would have to press out.