My full Stereo upgrade...so far

[Gary H]

My aim:
1) Good clear distortion-free sound across the entire spectrum that's easy to listen to and appreciate with the roof down at 85mph.
2) Enough future-proof connectivity options and full integration of iphone/sat nav handsfree etc.
3) Keep everything looking as if Porsche had installed it themselves.
Simple really
I'll tackle point 2 first. I'm about to upgrade the Stereo a Pioneer AVIC double DIN all-singing all dancing unit and have bought a mounting kit made in the 'states that should integrate it perfectly into the dash. I've managed to track down a 'no smoking' hole-filler from a 996 which integrates into the dash perfectly..and will have a USB slot behind it. Coupled to the built in SD slot and DVD (which also plays DVD audio) and the full control of an Ipod from the central cubby not to mention Parrot Bluetooth, DAB, Freeview and Full European 3D satNav...that's all bases covered.
Till that goes in, I've got a Becker Traffic Pro: It's a single DIN unit that matches the dash exactly, but has the added advantage of European Sat Nav, Aux-in for an MP3 player and the best radio Tuner I've ever heard.



So, the Speakers. I've gone with Infinity Kappas for a number of reasons: This isn't a Sales pitch but suffice to say if you're using a standard factory wiring loom and modest power levels, then these are not only reasonably priced, but offer a very good sound.
The current set up is a pair of 4" Co-Ax's in the dash tops, a pair of 6.5" co-ax's in the doors and a single 6.5" Sub. 50Watts RMS into each of the 4 satellite drivers and 150w RMS into the Subwoofer - a CDT Audio 6.5+, chosen because of the sound quality - and quantity that can be produced by such a small speaker in a very small box. (7 litres IIRC)
I've said at the moment because I'm so impressed with the CDT Audio Sub, that I may be going for a 3-way CDT Audio system - 6" Mid Bass in the door, 4" Mid range in the dash and 1" silk tweeter in the A Pillar...
Dash top installs are fairly straightforward if you get a speaker that's shallow enough and can utilise the mounting ring from the original speaker - which you have to destroy to utilise.

Here you can clearly see the difference in the size of the magnet and the tweeter -

(as in there is one). Honestly for a Prestige Marque the standard fit speakers are 'king shocking.

So the bit you need to keep hold is the fitting ring that your 4" mounts to -

- and once mounted:

Once re-fitted, I prised off the Infinity badges from the (unused) grills and stuck them on the dash-top grills a la Bose system.

[Gary H]

The Doors are a little more complicated.
Originally, with the 4 channel Amplifier upgrade, the doors are supposed to contain 5.25" 'sub-woofers' in plastic enclosures:


I managed to get hold of a guy on Renntech who made some custom enclosures from fibreglass and MDF by using an original enclosure as a mould, so I bought a pair and then thoroughly coated them in liquid dynamat and sheet noisekiller.



and then the insides were loosely packed with acoustic wadding -

which males the speaker sound like it's in a slightly bigger box, adding a little 'punch'
As you can see here, one of the advantages of the Infinity Kappa speaker is the tweeter on a pivot and +/- 3dB switch:

and finally fitted back in the door:

[Gary H]

With the Sub, I didn't want to compromise leg room, so had to make use of the left hand corner of the passenger footwell. Marking out the area I could lose with masking tape:

and then covering the contours with packing tape...

for the messy, smelly, unpleasant bit: Making the back of the sub box with fibreglass matting, resin and hardener:

Once that had gone off, I used a series of cardboard templates to fabricate the front of the box:

I then attached a 6.5" MDF Spacer where I wanted the sub to be (ensuring there was enough clearance) and then stretched some cloth tightly over it and stapled it behind. Painted it with Fibre glass resin and added a very thin layer of glass matting. This gave me the shape without adding weight -

and then some P38/P40 for rigidity -

Once sanded, trimmed in carpet and a temporary grill fitted.


Sits securely in the corner. Whilst I'm more than happy with the sound, I'm not happy with the way it looks - it's not stealthy enough so will be re-making a box with the sub completely hidden, firing down from under the dash...

[Gary H]

So, onto the Power. Really handy having the Battery in the front, it means that power runs are kept to an absolute minimum length. Keeping to the ethos that everything would be hidden - I didn't want to use the standard Amp location and decided a false floor would be the way to go, ensuring that the amps (one 4-channel and one 2-channel) were adequately cooled.)
So the component count is very simple: The two amps, a fused distribution block and a 1/2 Farad Stiffening capacitor. There is also a main fuse attached to the boot wall, approx 6” from the Battery.
The components were laid out on an MDF board cut to shape and then the cable runs decided on:

Then secured to the front boot floor:

I then templated and cut out a ‘floor’ from MDF, incorporating vent holes, a handle (made from Velcro) and a slot fan that shifts a surprising amount of air. This was then trimmed in black carpet -

(Can you see the face?!)
The final touch was to attach a luggage net to it and fit

And by filling in the holes left by the removal of the CD changer and amp, and attaching the warning triangle, I think it looks pretty stock:

[Lucky]

Impressive. You've got some good fabrication skillz.

[sparker]

Sensational work! If only you lived in Australia - I would be providing beer and requesting your assistance!!!

Sam