Header installation - Need Help!

[RandallNeighbour]

Originally Posted by dcporsche99

Just wanted to say thanks to Randall for the post on how to fix the front and rear truck lid. The other day they both stopped working, but THANKS TO THIS FORUM and Randall's post, it's back in working order.**** :dance:

Huh? Are you sure that was me? I don't remember posting anything about front and rear trunk lids not working

[dcporsche99]

Hi Randall,

Yup, it was you unless you have a twin!

Here you go and I quote, "Also, if the car sits idle for over a week, the key remote is not "seen" by the car and you'd have to put the key in the door, turn on the car, turn it off and then push your rear trunk release button."

This actually works to release the inside latches (on the driver's side) for both the front and rear lids too!

I found this under a thread dated 12-13.

[dcporsche99]

Hey Folks,

I had some time today so I did a formal write up for the DIY section. Unfortunately, when I tried to upload the file it was WAY TOO BIG

I have also saved it as a webpage, but then again, I wouldn't know how to put it out there in cyberspace.

For those of you who are interested, at this point, I can probably ONLY email the file to you. So let me know.

Thanks in advance.

[dcporsche99]

I took my car out today for a sweet long ride...and "by the seat of my pants" indicator, I would have to say "WOW"!!! Very, very, very nice!! I can only imagine what it must feel like with sports cats and a new exhaust!!! :dance:

From what I have read, some have mentioned that there's a price to pay for getting more up top, which is losing some down low. Probably the only way to really find out is to run it on a DYNO....but, just from driving today, I didn't feel too much of a difference down low.

Anyway, as many of you guys might have guessed the CEL light reset did NOT work. I figured I would continue posting it in this thread since it appears to be related to the header installation that was done.

Anyway, here are the codes: :ah:
P1124
P0134
P0154
P1115
P1119
P1126

Can I get some help here from some of the more knowledgeable folks out there? After reading all the postings here and on Renntech I am pretty certain that it points to the MAF and O2 sensors?? Is this correct?? Is there anything else from these codes that I should be concerned about?

Thanks in advance!

[RandallNeighbour]

check engine light codes can be found on this page. Bookmark it!

http://www.iwantaporsche.net/BoxsterCheckEngineLightCodes.htm

When your MAF goes or a O2 sensor goes out, it can throw a bunch of extraneous codes from what my mechanic showed me about my own car. I had one oxygen sensor out and he said the PST tool was showing the MAF not working either. We changed out the O2 sensor and voila! the MAF functioned perfectly and did not need replacement.

How many miles do you have on your boxster?

[dcporsche99]

Hey Randall,

Thanks for the reply. My box just hit 60K. So, I know I have to do the 60K maintainence. Since it's not my daily driver I figure I would just do that in the Spring.

Anyway, what do you think if I just went ahead and ordered the sensors, changed them, and then, reset the CEL. If the lights goes on again, then I might try changing the MAF? Since I don't have an Ohm meter available right now to see if the readings from the sensors are within range, I think I would rather just go ahead and switch them out.

BTW, the MAF is in the compartment behind the seats? Is this correct? Or is it accessible from underneath the car? I have a hardtop on and it's a PITA to remove....that's why I'm asking. I read that to troubleshoot the MAF, I would have to remove it and see if the car runs better. And if it does, then the MAF is the culprit. Did I understand this right?

[RandallNeighbour]

Ah, 60k... lots of boxster owners start having problems with sensors at this mileage it seems.

If you replace the O2 sensors (all four), it might solve your CE problem. They may not need it yet, but will need it before the car hits 75k miles most probably. This will cost you about $450 and an hour of your time change them out yourself from under the car (I did it and if I can do this, ANYONE can).

When I did mine it was like I got an instant tune up. Purrs like a kitten at idle, gave me better acceleration and fuel economy, and my bald spot disappeared. OOOPS. Went just a little too far there... I'm still balding.

The MAF is located just after the air filter, which is located directly above the intake hole on the driver's side of the car in the engine compartment. So yes, the hard top will have to come off, the top raised to the service position, etc.

I would not try to clean the MAF though... some have found temporary success with this, but it is still a gremlin that comes back to haunt them.

www.oxygensensors.com has a good deal on Bosch O2 sensors with the correct square plugs on them, by the way.