08 Box Base Alternator

[feedback]

Even if the battery was toast the alternator would still push 13.5-14v. The regulator/rectifier is shot but now a days you can’t just buy parts, just swap components. I wouldn’t change the battery until I recharged it and swapped the alternator. The battery can only accept what it’s given. If your alt is only putting out 10.5 the battery will never be more that 10.5

[blue62]

If your going to test the alternator, test it at the alternator not the battery.

You could simply have a bad or dirty connection at the battery, ground points, or connections at the alternator or faulty, damaged wiring. If you want to test the alternator start at the alternator, if it tests good then do a voltage drop test at each wiring connection. Work you way to the battery.

If the alternator is in fact faulty replace it. Then do a voltage drop test at the battery cable connections. If you have voltage drop then find the bad connection or wiring by doing voltage drop tests on the wiring and wiring connections from the alternator to the battery.
If no voltage drop then charge the battery and have it load tested.
By testing this way the entire charging system is tested and proven good or faulty and the faults are found and corrected.

The way your testing you could conclude that the alternator is bad when it could just be a dirty or loose wiring connection. Spendy mistake.

You have a multi meter, go to youtube and watch how to test automotive charging systems, also how to do voltage drop tests. Or google testing automotive charging systems. Also how to perform voltage drop tests.

[Vza]

Ok...Battery tested good ...but ....it wasn't the correct battery for the car so I dropped in a new one. Measured voltage across terminals w/ engine running and got around 10.5 volts. I assume its the alternator or voltage regulator. Will check connections and ground. Any thoughts. Thanks V