cheapest adjustable toe links

[feedback]

I'm looking to set up my rear suspension and I need to adjust the toe on the rears. I figure I may well end up with something like Tarett or SPL links for bump steer negation, but I came across these.

https://www.demonspeedmotorsports.com/Rear-Adjustable-Toe-Links-Porsche-GT3-Cup-9971-S-7TL.htm

I have a couple of spare front outer track control arms which I believe they used in the GT3 rear arms.
I cannot think of a good reason why they will not work but this is my first 986 build and I know nearly every avenue and combination of parts has probably been used by people here.

[Quadcammer]

may work. alternatively, you can just buy the megan racing ones. They are around $180-$200 complete and you won't have to source the heim joint spacers and the like

[feedback]

I was looking at them but these showed up in a separate search
https://www.vividracing.com/torque-solution-rear-toe-link-kit-porsche-996-997-cayman-boxter-9813-p-150724394.html
And with $20 off it was a no brainer. I really wanted solid links and the ability to adjust bump steer but my budget is being consumed in the body panels and roll cage.

[Robert986]

Originally Posted by feedback

I'm looking to set up my rear suspension and I need to adjust the toe on the rears. I figure I may well end up with something like Tarett or SPL links for bump steer negation, but I came across these.

https://www.demonspeedmotorsports.com/Rear-Adjustable-Toe-Links-Porsche-GT3-Cup-9971-S-7TL.htm

I have a couple of spare front outer track control arms which I believe they used in the GT3 rear arms.
I cannot think of a good reason why they will not work but this is my first 986 build and I know nearly every avenue and combination of parts has probably been used by people here.

Looks nice, do we believe those are ok quality?

Also, is it really beneficial to use toe links with the "bump steer" feature om a 986?

Finally, do "we" fint the torque solution ones better than tarrets cheap ones? https://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-981-718-products/986-987-981-718-suspension/986-987-981-718-control-arms/996-986-987-rear-t-control-arm-pr-996tlnk-detail.htm


Edit: I ment to quote the link to the Torque Solution ones!! ��

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Robert986

Looks nice, do we believe those are ok quality?

Also, is it really beneficial to use toe links with the "bump steer" feature om a 986?

Finally, do "we" fint the torque solution ones better than tarrets cheap ones? https://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-981-718-products/986-987-981-718-suspension/986-987-981-718-control-arms/996-986-987-rear-t-control-arm-pr-996tlnk-detail.htm

Robert, if your car is lowered I would recommend using the bump steer kit and IMHO Tarett makes great products
.

[Robert986]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Robert, if your car is lowered I would recommend using the bump steer kit and IMHO Tarett makes great products
.

Thanks, after engine tuning, this winters project is Öhlins R/T so it will be lowered. My question is really, would the linked Tarett (without bumpsteer) or the "Torque Solution" (bumpsteer) be the way to go? A y diff in performance or perhaps quality? Anyone know?

[Boxstard]

Originally Posted by Robert986

Thanks, after engine tuning, this winters project is Öhlins R/T so it will be lowered. My question is really, would the linked Tarett (without bumpsteer) or the "Torque Solution" (bumpsteer) be the way to go? A y diff in performance or perhaps quality? Anyone know?

Apple to orange… you need to decide on bump steer or not. If you are going to lower it, I’d suggest one with bump steer. Mine is 2” lowered and installed RSS bump steer adjustable rods front and back, huge improvement.

[feedback]

I think you have to first see where your car sits and see if you need the adjustment. I will be on or close to the bumpstops when I need it to have maximum contact and alignment. As everyone seems to get different readings at minimum and max spec I would decide when you get the car setup and if you cannot tune the alignment then buy whatever adjustable parts you need then. If I need to get LCA’s I’m going to simply go with the SPL pro series, but I’m hoping I can get away with top plates and stock adjustment.

[Boxstard]

Originally Posted by feedback

I think you have to first see where your car sits and see if you need the adjustment. I will be on or close to the bumpstops when I need it to have maximum contact and alignment. As everyone seems to get different readings at minimum and max spec I would decide when you get the car setup and if you cannot tune the alignment then buy whatever adjustable parts you need then. If I need to get LCA’s I’m going to simply go with the SPL pro series, but I’m hoping I can get away with top plates and stock adjustment.

With 2” lowered, I got 1.7 deg camber, maxed out with stock mount/ LCA, while 2.6deg rear as minimum out of stock LCA all the way in. You need adjustable rear toe arms at this ride height to get zero toe, and bump steer spacer keeps the arm parallel to LCA.

Front bump steer rods made noticeable difference for me, steering wheel is more stable over rough surface with little kick backs, and it feels really smooth from turn-in through the corner, that may also come from zeroed out toe front and back.

For now I’d live with stock LCA and see how my tires wear for my driving, but if you lower the car beyond 0.5” (Euro M030 spec) then you probably be better served with adjustable toe arms, if not with bump steer feature.

[winter.k]

I bought a set of the cheap ones on eBay (TopSpeed, Godspeed, junk)... They rusted and squeaked horribly after a year or two so I searched for a replacement. I thought that Tarrett or Rennline options were most reasonably priced options from a quality vendor. ~$375.

After a closer look I realized that most of the components are off the shelf, but the expander bolt and spacers are custom. The rod ends are TRW and the heim joints are from FK Bearings. So I ended up making a project out of it and made my own set.

[Boxstard]

Originally Posted by winter.k

I bought a set of the cheap ones on eBay (TopSpeed, Godspeed, junk)... They rusted and squeaked horribly after a year or two so I searched for a replacement. I thought that Tarrett or Rennline options were most reasonably priced options from a quality vendor. ~$375.

After a closer look I realized that most of the components are off the shelf, but the expander bolt and spacers are custom. The rod ends are TRW and the heim joints are from FK Bearings. So I ended up making a project out of it and made my own set

Nice work! This has to be the least expensive option, and I was thinking of the same using individual components sold plus stock tie rod. But I ended up with the whole rods with bump steer kits as my car is 2” lowered. If your car is lowered to the point that stock rod with elliptical bolt can’t get the toe right, I guess you may experience bump steer unless the joint at the hub carrier is lowered that the stock tie rod won’t.

[Robert986]

Originally Posted by Boxstard

Apple to orange… you need to decide on bump steer or not. If you are going to lower it, I’d suggest one with bump steer. Mine is 2” lowered and installed RSS bump steer adjustable rods front and back, huge improvement.

You are absolutely right I guess I tried to put in two questions in one sentence.. ;-)
So if I just start with the first one...

-When I´ll be putting on the Öhlin R/T coilovers the car will be lowered (within reason) I take it there is consensus in the need for adjustable rear toelinks, but is it a fact that I would gain from using the Bump-steer-compensated ones? More money, but will they matter?

[feedback]

The rear can be steered just as well as the front. Except the rears are anchored, if you change the angle of the LCA you change the relationship of toe. The front you correct with steering, the rear has a set ratio of deflection. You ‘may’ compensate enough with the eccentric bolts and resetting the toe angle with adjustment. But beyond a certain point you run out of adjustment, the chassis side is a fixed point so now you have to go to the other end to make adjustments. If you want to make sure the rear has minimal change in steering then you need to do what ever needs to be done to minimize the ratio of change the rear gives. People have gotten away without bump steer correction, but without knowing the spring rates they are using and shock valving, it’s impossible to say if you need it or not.

[Boxstard]

Originally Posted by Robert986

You are absolutely right I guess I tried to put in two questions in one sentence.. ;-)
So if I just start with the first one...

-When I´ll be putting on the Öhlin R/T coilovers the car will be lowered (within reason) I take it there is consensus in the need for adjustable rear toelinks, but is it a fact that I would gain from using the Bump-steer-compensated ones? More money, but will they matter?

Bump steer feature works for me, pavement is rough out here and I used to get steering wheel kickbacks over bumps but it definitely feels solid now with it. Honestly I can’t tell effect on the rear as I did wheel alignment to dial toe and camber at the same time, but it feels a lot smoother through corner. It’s more money but not that much more.

With your coilovers you can adjust the height as low as the lower control arm and the toe rod stay in parallel, and you could get by without needing bump steer feature?

[Robert986]

Thank's all, great input!

Was looking at those torque Solution arms linked..

1, To me they look bump steer compensated, but they don't say so. Anyone know?
2. Any thoughts regarding the qualite of those arms, are Tarett better?