Yes indeed, and eventually you could end having issues with the head gasket as well.. Vision Motorsports use steel liners on their race engines with good results, but these engines usually get disassembled and refresh after the race season or every other season and that seems impractical (and expensive..) for a street car.

I know, Husker, I know...anytime I read ANYTHING from you that even remotely suggests that you might be willing to part with 'Punkin,' I KNOW I have to keep reading...cuz the other shoe is bound to soon drop! :cool:

What kind of mileage you got on her these days? (My patience...it's NOT without limits! :rolleyes:)

Punkin just turned 73 w/in the week. Sydney is at 68. They own 2nd and 3rd place on my list of yrs of ownership. I had a 79 Mustang Pace Car for 34 yrs. Punkin is at 13 and Sydney is at 8. There are a bunch of cars in 4th place at 4 yrs and several at 3 yrs. Plans are to keep accumulating miles and yrs on these two. I got a compliment 2 wks ago at a fun run saying Punkin looked brand new.

What types of issues with the head gasket have those guys had?

I have zero real world experience with sleeving, so I only know what I can access online. But a quick trip to the fountain of knowledge shows at least one builder (vac motorsports) who routinely sleeve bmw alusil engine with flanged ductile iron sleeves with success in builds much more demanding than an NA m96.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to knock raby or ln from an experience standpoint, but their prices are absurd and it seems like those are the only 2 guys who ever come up in engine discussions without any talk of the rest of the vast world of engine builders.

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Sydney is at the doctor's office and will be starting her 2 mo (hopefully) heart surgery. Now that I'm past the sticker shock, I'm looking forward to the results.

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Sorry Paul, I didn't answer your question from earlier. I think it will be a couple of yrs before Jake's new process is commercially viable. My initial thought on going with the 2500 mi engine was in conjunction w/ Jake's new system. I'd put the 2500 mi engine in, then wait 2 yrs and have my original rebuilt with the new liners. Then I'd be able to keep my original engine (vs exchanging it for one already rebuilt). And when my engine was done, I could pull the 2500 mi engine and sell it. This process would have gotten me back on the road in short order, rather than getting in line with Raby or L&N and waiting 18 mo. Since EvoSpec can get me turned around in 2 mo (hopefully), I can live with that as down time, esp since I have Punkin to drive in the summer mo.

It will be worth the wait, with the 3.8 and some goodies like a tune and headers your HP should be in Cayman R or GT4 zip code! Here's to hoping LN's platers can move it through asap!

SLM was down a mechanic last wk, so work has now begun on engine removal. They hope to ship tomorrow. Thu I go in to look at peripherals like clutch, etc to see what we want to replace.

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Husker, hopefully you can save a little extra money for an OS Giken LSD, you are going to love it.. :-)

Maybe if my PowerBall #s come in tomorrow.

The peripherals could add up. The clutch has ~30K mi, meaning it would prob be good for a while but prob won't make sense to put it back in now that everything is out. I have a 2nd gear synchro that may be going out (3-2 downshift can crunch), so that will be looked at. That fix could be another $5K. Who knows what else we'll find? Keep your fingers crossed for me on Thu. :cheers:

Thankfully the clutch and flywheel look good and don't need to be replaced.

Here are some pics of the missing engine and pile of parts. Talking to the trans guy on Mon.

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The local Porsche repair shop didn't work on trans, so I was still out in the cold. However, a thread in the General Discussion appeared and it was suggested to have CMS in AZ do the work. I did some research on them and found a 2nd trusted source who highly recommended them, so I contacted them with a detailed description of what my trans was doing. I immediately got a response back from Roger saying the following items should be replaced:

2nd gear synchro
engagement teeth on 2nd gear wheel
1st/2nd shift sleeve

He had the parts in stock for $1330. I asked how much he would charge to do the repair and he said $600. I had SLM drain the trans fluid and ship my trans to CMS. It just left Thu. Roger said it would probably take 2 wks to make the repair.

Happy to get the trans fixed up for approx $2500 or less. The CSS should be in tip top shape when she's done. Haven't heard an update on the engine. Early Aug would be the 2 mo est they gave me, so even if everything is going on schedule, there's a few wks to go.

While I wait for the engine to return, I decided now would be a great time to spruce up the intake manifold. I've seen pics on several forums where Cayman owners have painted them in various colors. Did some research on how it was done and bought the appropriate heat resistant paint. Here's the blank canvas I started with:

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I sanded the area with a Scotchgard pad, then spray painted the letters white. Put some clay over them and taped off the raised block. Put a light coat of black wrinkle paint on, followed by red. Let it dry and poked the clay out of the letters. Wasn't too happy with the result, so I bought a skinny brush and carefully painted the letters by hand. Taped over the red block and sprayed the top part of the runners in silver. Unmasked the red block, tightened up the letters with white and red, and then clear coated the entire schmere.

The aluminum gas lines were dirty so I spent a day cleaning them. There were a multitude of YT vids on how to clean aluminum. I decided to try WD40 and a stiff brush along with a tooth brush. One rail came out pretty good but the other not so much. I bought some alum wheel cleaner and that helped but it still looked cruddy. Pulled a copper wire brush out of my Dremel box and tried that. It made pretty good work of the dirty surface and I followed it up with the Scothgard pad. Looked good enought for govt work. Popped 6 new fuel injectors in from Pelican and put it all back together again.

It's not perfect but not too bad. Should look fine under the clear engine cover. That's not silver overspray on the pic, it's just the reflection of the light off the silver.

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I'm happy with the results. Now all I need is an engine to strap it to.

Looks really good:cheers:

That is pretty - maybe a clear engine cover so it doesn't go unnoticed?

That is what I was thinking, as the clear engine covers were the reason for dressing up the intake manifolds, these turn out great!

I already have the clear engine cover. Use it for car shows and DEs. It's held in place by 2 bolts, so it's faster to get to the engine and allows me to see anthing that might be going wrong - both good things when DEing. I don't leave it on full time, however, as it lets a nasty whooshing sound come thru more easily.

Diy or bought? Got any pics?

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I bought it used probably 6-7 yrs ago. There were 2 brands available at that time. Think this one is a HIP (or HIPP). Cost around $450.


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very cool, thanks for sharing.

I was deep in the rabbit hole last night and found this. Interesting to see what they'll be doing (or have done) to my engine. Looks like this part of the rebuild only takes 4 min. ;)

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No word yet on a completion date. But still only a tad less than 3 mo.