2.7 swap

[Aanic]

@truegearhead - I'm much in the same boat here. Looking to swap out my 2.5. From what I'm gathering you used the 2.7 engine, swapped the fuel rail, the crossover and the throttle body form the 2.5, the 2.5 harness and blocked off the crossover valve?

Everything else pretty much plug and play?

@DLLRD23 - Keep us up to date, I'm watching this one with a lot of interest.

[truegearhead]

Originally Posted by Aanic

@truegearhead - I'm much in the same boat here. Looking to swap out my 2.5. From what I'm gathering you used the 2.7 engine, swapped the fuel rail, the crossover and the throttle body form the 2.5, the 2.5 harness and blocked off the crossover valve?

Everything else pretty much plug and play?

@DLLRD23 - Keep us up to date, I'm watching this one with a lot of interest.

Yep that’s it!

[Dllrd23]

Originally Posted by truegearhead

Yep that’s it!

@truegearhead. My 2.5l harness only has 2 oxygen sensor connectors. Do you know if there is a sort of “jumper harness“ that the 2.5’s used. Also the temp(?) sensor is the front oil passage is a different connector. Do you remember if you had to change yours?

[Dllrd23]

Originally Posted by Aanic

@truegearhead - I'm much in the same boat here. Looking to swap out my 2.5. From what I'm gathering you used the 2.7 engine, swapped the fuel rail, the crossover and the throttle body form the 2.5, the 2.5 harness and blocked off the crossover valve?

Everything else pretty much plug and play?

@DLLRD23 - Keep us up to date, I'm watching this one with a lot of interest.

I just bought some silicone reducers for the crossover from Intercooler Pipe Fabrication they were 3.75” to 3.5”. I’ll let you know how they work. Next order of business is figuring out which exhaust to use. The 2.5 would be plug and play but when I went to get it yesterday, I stood it up on end and a bunch of oil ran out meaning the converter (I think only one side as this was a blown head gasket issue) would be full of oil and likely ruined. The exhaust on the 2.7 has the o2s in the wrong location for the harness which isn’t a huge deal but will require some wiring. I just got some mesh loom to update the harness and some cloth electrical tape from amazon today to freshen up the look of the harness. It was fairly inexpensive (200’ of tape 25’ of 1/4” loom and 25’ of 1/2” loom for $40). Researching which IMS bearing to go with right now. That is next after the harness then all should go quick after that.

[Dllrd23]

Originally Posted by Aanic

@truegearhead - I'm much in the same boat here. Looking to swap out my 2.5. From what I'm gathering you used the 2.7 engine, swapped the fuel rail, the crossover and the throttle body form the 2.5, the 2.5 harness and blocked off the crossover valve?

Everything else pretty much plug and play?

@DLLRD23 - Keep us up to date, I'm watching this one with a lot of interest.

Here is what I learned so far. The hardest part of this is going to be the o2 sensors. I am thinking that my solution is going to be replacing all 4 with longer pigtails so that I can use the 2.7 exhaust if for no other reason than to not have to remove the manifolds and rick breaking the bolts. I am confident that I can drill and tap without damaging the head as this is a common occurrence in my job but who wants that aggravation? the reason for the longer pigtail is that in the 2.7L engine harness, you will find all 4 of the o2 connectors where in the 2.5 harness there are only connectors for the upstream o2's the downstream o2's connect to wires that locate up through the trunk and run into the white connector to the right of the ECM and from there go to the ECM. I plan on pulling the o2's and running a scope into the hole front and back to get a good idea of the condition of the catalyst material. You can get a very inexpensive camera that attached to your phone for about $25 from Aamzon.

You will have to change over the coolant temp sensor or swap connectors (which seems a lot harder as you would have to have a reliable wiring diagram and I have already found mistakes in the Bentley Manual). Again not too terribly expensive but it all adds up. About $40 on the high side.

I am changing the AOS, Water Pump, Thermostat, IMS bearing, and Rear Main Seal in the first round of parts. Second round will be spark plug tubes and seals, Spark plugs, I will need new intake gaskets, exhaust manifold to pipe gaskets and bolts, and a new Oil cooler. Figure these should run about $750 (round 1 and 2 combined). Not all of this is necessary but I could not choose which one I would want to do with the engine in the car should save a lot of time in the long run.

My particular car will need some interior work and well as removal of one scratch (with dent) in the rear quarter and a new top replaced before I will call it done. Hope to have it up and running in about 6 weeks. Keep watching and check out some of the videos at a You Tube Channel I just started tonight where I will post videos of the build.