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Old 05-25-2019, 06:17 PM   #1
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Brake Fluid Change

So, if I drive the P car during spring/summer approx 5-6 months with 1,000 to 1,500 miles, store in winter does it need brake fluid change ~ 2 years?

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Old 05-26-2019, 05:06 AM   #2
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yes every 2yrs... brake fluid is hygroscopic.

You change motor oil annually, right?

Learn to DIY and it's < $20 per (plus one time cost of motive power bleeder ~ $70).

Plus, gives you opportunity to inspect all the braking components

Good luck
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Old 05-26-2019, 08:57 AM   #3
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It also gives you a reason to remove your wheels and give the them a good s=cleaning on teh inside as well as inspect your suspension and other goodies that are hard to get to. Using the power bleeder makes it a one man job and a lot quicker.
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Old 05-27-2019, 04:04 AM   #4
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I change the brake fluid at the beginning of every season. I track the car occasionally and after having experienced boiling fluid once, I decided to not do it ever again.
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Old 05-27-2019, 04:54 AM   #5
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Overkill for street cars but cheap and easy to do if you have a power bleeder.
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Old 05-28-2019, 04:31 PM   #6
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I agree, two years is overkill for a street driven car but its not that expensive if you can DIY it.

I race my Spec Boxster and even then I only change the brake fluid once or twice per year.
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:27 AM   #7
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the "p car"?
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:00 AM   #8
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What you should be doing is monitoring the fluid's moisture content and changing it when it starts to go up; OTC makes a $20 tool that will tell you when it needs to be changed.
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Old 05-29-2019, 06:44 AM   #9
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[QUOTE=Burg Boxster;596178]yes every 2yrs... brake fluid is hygroscopic.

You change motor oil annually, right?


No 3 times a year!
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Old 05-29-2019, 08:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
What you should be doing is monitoring the fluid's moisture content and changing it when it starts to go up; OTC makes a $20 tool that will tell you when it needs to be changed.
Great advice PA; where is the OTC tool available?
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Old 05-29-2019, 10:20 AM   #11
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Great advice PA; where is the OTC tool available?
Anywhere OTC tools are sold, Amazon carries it:

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Old 05-29-2019, 04:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
Anywhere OTC tools are sold, Amazon carries it:

On order from Amazon chose the Dot4 tool
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Old 05-29-2019, 07:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
What you should be doing is monitoring the fluid's moisture content and changing it when it starts to go up; OTC makes a $20 tool that will tell you when it needs to be changed.
Thanks for the tip, JFP. Never knew these devices existed. And thanks for all the expert advice and insights you've contributed over the years.

And I'm not "just sayin....."

TO
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Old 06-03-2019, 02:55 PM   #14
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This tool may save you time and money. It's been 2 years since I changed/flushed the Brake Fluid. I drive the P car in Summer/Fall. The brake fluid tester shows less than 1% water in the brake fluid and is OK. Without this tester, I would've flushed the brake fluid as recommended by the manual.
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Old 06-04-2019, 01:50 AM   #15
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Quote:
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This tool may save you time and money. It's been 2 years since I changed/flushed the Brake Fluid. I drive the P car in Summer/Fall. The brake fluid tester shows less than 1% water in the brake fluid and is OK. Without this tester, I would've flushed the brake fluid as recommended by the manual.
That's exactly why we use them in the shop.
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Old 06-04-2019, 04:12 PM   #16
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Neat device but it won't tell if air bubbles trapped in the line? I guess you must feel that.

After 3 years/ 30K miles of ownership I finally got to flush and bleed the lines with Motul 600 and was amazed how easy to lock up front tires now!
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Old 06-04-2019, 05:39 PM   #17
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Neat device but it won't tell if air bubbles trapped in the line?
I was amazed how easy to lock up front tires now!
Boxtard, you may want to bleed the rear axle again.. :-)
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Old 06-05-2019, 03:07 PM   #18
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Boxtard, you may want to bleed the rear axle again.. :-)
I used 1.5L of fluid for pressure bleeding and pretty confident that rear are fine.

In fact I thought by design brake force is biased to front so that rear never lock up before front...

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