986 rear toe problem

[thejack]

Hi Gents,
I have always had premature tyres wear, especially on the rear of my 97 986 but now I decided to go and check why. I had all the shocks replaced along with all rods. But the alignment is very bad as I'm not able to go over 1.5 mm toe in on the right side. Left is good. The car is a LHD. When it comes to move the eccentric bolt on the right side, it looks there's no more room to get it less than 1.5mm out, and even if I move the camber to 2.2 degrees, there's no way to get other than 0,9. Car hasn't had any accidents, is on its original springs (180k miles by now) and shocks (bilstein b4). Someone has gone though this and solved? If so, how did you do? thanks in advance.

[husker boxster]

Good chance your LCA bushing has gotten old and mushy. You might want to consider these on all 4 corners.

https://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-981-718-products/986-987-981-718-suspension/986-987-981-718-monballs~bushings-/lower-control-arm-monoball-bushing-996-001-detail.htm

And while you're ordering from Tarett, these will eliminate the eccentric bolt and all that foolishness.

https://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-981-718-products/986-987-981-718-suspension/986-987-981-718-control-arms/996-986-987-rear-t-control-arm-pr-996tlnk-detail.htm

[thejack]

I was thinking about them. But I have replaced all the rods and arms on all four corners and this make me think that they aren’t the source of the problem.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by thejack

I was thinking about them. But I have replaced all the rods and arms on all four corners and this make me think that they aren’t the source of the problem.

If you've replaced "all your arms", does this include the rear control arms, the rear trailing arms, and the rear toe links?

If you've replaced all of those with the correct parts, and you still can't get your rear toe in spec, then your car's been wrecked before. :shrug:

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[thejack]

Well, that's surely not the case. The car has never been wrecked before.

So, I can't figure out where things started to go bad. I also checked under the car for the subframe but it looks good at a visual inspection. No signs of hit or scratches or visible bent parts.

I have also loosened the Alu subframe bolts to see if I could shift it one way or the other but got no result. Now I'm stuck there and have no clue how to solve this.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by thejack

Well, that's surely not the case. The car has never been wrecked before.



So, I can't figure out where things started to go bad. I also checked under the car for the subframe but it looks good at a visual inspection. No signs of hit or scratches or visible bent parts.



I have also loosened the Alu subframe bolts to see if I could shift it one way or the other but got no result. Now I'm stuck there and have no clue how to solve this.

Well husker gave you a sure-fire way, below. That would definitely get your toe in-spec. But it doesn't help figure out why the factory parts won't.

Either you've got the wrong parts someplace, or something is worn / bent / improperly installed.

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[safesaxbdd]

I have the same problem, but my car is also LHD and the problem is on the Left rear tire! I can't get it to go over 1.7mm toe in on the left side! Were you ever able to figure this out?
Thanks!!

[husker boxster]

When the LCA bushings wear out, your fav alignment shop will not be able to get your car into factory specs. The factory bushing is rubber that ages or wears out with heavy track duty. I wore the right front out on my CSS by driving at Kansas Speedway. The transition from the bus stop to the banking took it's toll. The Tarett bushings are a much more robust and better design, as is all their stuff.

If you've looked at the factory rear toe arms, toe is set by an eccentric (egg shaped) bolt / washer combo. When turning the bolt, it adjusts the toe in or out depending on where the egg shaped edge sits. Very easy to knock this system out of alignment. The Tarett toe arms use a turn buckle that is locked into place by two nuts. Much more robust.