Belt Tensioner

[achillies]

Today I was inspecting my drive belt and decided to replace since I was in there. I put the 24mm socket on the bolt and when I tried to lever it over the bolt turned like a normal bolt. No matter how I attacked it it just turned. What am I doing wrong? Seem pretty obvious what you do...lever the tensioner to the left (as you look at it).

Thanks
Bob

[harnishclan]

There is a 15mm nut on the back of the tensioner pulley that might be loose. Put an open end on there and use 24 to tighten it. Then try the 24 to move tensioner again.

[achillies]

Thanks I will try that.

[NewArt]

Um, I think the tensioner rotates to the right (clockwise) to release the tension?

[thstone]

Originally Posted by NewArt

Um, I think the tensioner rotates to the right (clockwise) to release the tension?

NewArt is correct. Turn clockwise to release tension.

"To release tension on the belt, simply place a 24mm socket attached to a breaker bar on the idler and turn it clockwise"

Porsche Boxster Drive Belt Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article

[derfo]

Originally Posted by NewArt

Um, I think the tensioner rotates to the right (clockwise) to release the tension?

New Art is correct, I have just removed my alternator to fit a new voltage regulator. To release tension on the belt turn to the right, clockwise.

[achillies]

Yeah he is but it doesnt matter the pully just rotates it doesnt lever the belt. I was looking right at the 101 book instructions and still tried counter clockwise. I will work on my reading comprehension.

Thanks for the replies.

[cesarpeji]

Hey friend, same thin on my belt tensioner, the back nut rotates. did you finally get yours out. how did you do it, so we can replace the belt. let me now the trick. thanks..

[cesarpeji]

I'm planning you put a small vise grip plier on that 15mm nut at the back then when turning the 24MM in the front that back nut will lock at the back as soon as the plier hit that plunger in order for the back nut stop rotating. what had you tried.

[Gelbster]

I have posted on this 15mm nut problem before. The only way to access the nut is to use a very slim 15mm open end wrench behind the pulley .It needs to be exactly the correct length and thickness.
Probably better to remove the entire assembly, replace the pulley+bearing and use red Loctite on the 15mm nut.Let it cure before refitting.
Be careful if you are trying to fit new serp belt. The ultra high quality belts - like Gates may be too stiff to fit when cold. I find the Conti is easier. Whatever brand it must be exactly the correct length. Half an inch too short will not fit. Half an inch too long is sloppy.
Good Luck !

[jakeru]

I had no problem accessing the back bolt head on this tensioner pulley fastener by just using the open end of my trusty Craftsman combination wrench:


Just make the open-ended wrench is fully seated on the bolt head before applying full torque to remove/reinstall this extremely large (24mm?), special nut. By the way if you don't have a (not common) 24mm socket, I found a 15/16" socket fit nice and snugly, and worked very well.

If you end up removing the nut completely, I'd recommend scraping away any old threadlock goober you find, so you can reassemble (and bring up to full torque) with fresh, clean metal surfaces. You want the full clamp load to travel through the metal surfaces, not through old dried threadlocker.

If one ever wants to remove the fastener in the future without damaging things in the process, I'm not sure that the red (permanent strength) threadlocker is a good idea. Blue threadlocker I think is more appropriate for this high-vibration fastener.

[harnishclan]

Originally Posted by jakeru

I had no problem accessing the back bolt head on this tensioner pulley fastener by just using the open end of my trusty Craftsman combination wrench:


Just make the open-ended wrench is fully seated on the bolt head before applying full torque to remove/reinstall this extremely large (24mm?), special nut. By the way if you don't have a (not common) 24mm socket, I found a 15/16" socket fit nice and snugly, and worked very well.

If you end up removing the nut completely, I'd recommend scraping away any old threadlock goober you find, so you can reassemble (and bring up to full torque) with fresh, clean metal surfaces. You want the full clamp load to travel through the metal surfaces, not through old dried threadlocker.

If one ever wants to remove the fastener in the future without damaging things in the process, I'm not sure that the red (permanent strength) threadlocker is a good idea. Blue threadlocker I think is more appropriate for this high-vibration fastener.

Used that same 15mm Craftsman wrench with no problems at all. There is no need for special tools.