Lock Woes Part 2

[dulmer]

Didn't get any suggestions for my last post, so thought a video might help. This only occurs on the passenger door, after I have locked the doors. If I try this on the driver side, no noise, no unlock. If I lock the doors on the driver's side, it only works if I triple lock. However, several hours later the car unlocks itself. It's driving me nuts. Really hope you guys can help me out.

https://youtu.be/A5DakZUvGY8

[itsnotanova]

I've never seen or heard of that problem before. It looks like you have a door lock on the right side which probably means you have the M531 immobilizer which also means you'll need a different door mechanism than one with a M535. You'll need to confirm that by unbolting your driver's seat and taking a look.

[particlewave]

My guess is a bad door latch micro switch. Sounds like the car isn't getting the "door safe" signal, so doesn't want to lock unless you force it.

No way to know without testing every switch or replacing the door latches.

[magno_grail]

From the repeated locking/unlocking sound it might be the aftermarket immobilizer is interfering with the ECU unlock. Any way to disconnect the aftermarket unit?

[dulmer]

Thanks guys. A previous owner did install aftermarket keyless entry which maybe is messing things up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dulmer]

Particlewave, you may be onto something. Received my MaxiDiag today, and lo and behold, fault code 46, which could mean door switch?
The other thing I forgot to mention is that neither window drops when the door handles are lifted. Also, the passenger side regulator was replaced before I bought the car (though already it is getting noisy, so must've been a used part).




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[particlewave]

Yep. The synch code means that one or both of the door latch mechanisms have faults and are not both locking and/or seeing "door safe" when the door is closed. Do the windows fail to drop when either inside or outside door handle is used?

It could still be an immobilizer or wiring issue, but the door latches are the obvious answer.

I would also remove the aftermarket keyless entry until the problem is solved because it very well could be contributing or causing the problem. If you want to keep using an aftermarket keyless entry, thoroughly test the unit you have or just replace it. The $13 unit I use has excellent range and has worked flawlessly for years, so a decent one is not expensive.

[dulmer]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Yep. The synch code means that one or both of the door latch mechanisms have faults and are not both locking and/or seeing "door safe" when the door is closed. Do the windows fail to drop when either inside or outside door handle is used?

It could still be an immobilizer or wiring issue, but the door latches are the obvious answer.

I would also remove the aftermarket keyless entry until the problem is solved because it very well could be contributing or causing the problem. If you want to keep using an aftermarket keyless entry, thoroughly test the unit you have or just replace it. The $13 unit I use has excellent range and has worked flawlessly for years, so a decent one is not expensive.

Yeah, neither window drops from inside nor outside door handle. The funny thing is that when I first went to look at the car, the driver window would drop. Once he got the passenger door regulator "fixed", neither of them drop. I'll remove the aftermarket keyless this weekend, and maybe open up the immobilizer to see if there is any sign of obvious damage. Thanks for the help!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[particlewave]

No problem

It wouldn't hurt to check inside the door (both?) to make sure nothing got unplugged when the PO did the regulator.

[dulmer]

Originally Posted by particlewave

No problem

It wouldn't hurt to check inside the door (both?) to make sure nothing got unplugged when the PO did the regulator.

Yeah, good call. Will give it a look!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk