Water Pump now oil pressure to low WTF
 

Hello everyone, I am new here all around .... new to forum new to Porsche ... new to Boxster .... so hello all.... I hate to be the new guy already looking for answers but I have a real problem and worried I already need an engine . I bought a 2007 Boxster base last year 68k on the odo.... now has 83k it's my daily commuter and fun great running car,I don't drive it hard or race it .... a couple weeks ago the water pump started a leak so yesterday I go to replace it. I am somewhat mechanically inclined but Ford and Subaru mostly in knowledge ( I'm a service Advisor) anyways one of my techs and I took on the task. Seemed pretty straightforward . Backed car up on ramps...secured it... removed belt...and water pump bolts ...go under remove rest of bolts and unclamp hoses ... drain coolant... remove and replace pump and then put everything back ... add coolant ...move off ramp and start car to check for leaks... run vehicle seems to take longer than normal to get to temp . Eventually does and thermostat opens and burping begins.... here's where it gets weird and goes bad ... I get low oil pressure warning that goes away when revving Rpms... I shut off car add coolant and resume burping .... put cap on and go for slow drive warning goes out drives as normal heat starts to work temperature goes up and down assuming due to air pockets back home cool down and add coolant... go to start burping again turn on and idle ... idles about 10 mins .. air purging then low oil pressure light again ... I turn car off then back on rev above 1000 rpms light goes out ... and no heat from vents again assume air pocket ... start car again idle and low oil pressure light again with rattle like noises like Tin can rattling .... oh crap ... shut off car immediately... and crap ... turn key once to start to see if problem reoccurred... and starts with metallic knock rattle then starts and idles ok ... I turn off immediately and now I'm worried I killed the engine... what could I have done in the simple task of changing the water pump that caused this?? Where do I look first ?? Am I doomed? Thanks in advance for any help

How hot did the car get? Other than an over heated engine I'm not able to connect the two symptoms.

During the first burping it never got over 175 but no heat out the vents on a quick road test got no more than 190 and I shut it off cooled down added coolant and drove home no issues ... veh cooled down I went to burp again idling in the garage idle about 10 mins no prob then low pressure light ... I'm lost

Also besides the leaking water pump no other issues were present prior to the pump replacement

With air pockets ,you really have no clue how hot the vital areas became. The knock is a big problem unless there is a simple explanation like very low oil level(unlikely) or totally plugged filter. Running the engine while knocking is a bad idea obviously.
Flailing, I would check the oil level, check for Intermix, remove the filter and look for debris.If you find debris in the pleats, drop the pan and Post photos of any debris here. Differentiate between magnetic/not mag/plastic.
Be cautious. If you resolve it, do the burping on ramps or use Airlift.

Ok went out today added coolant and the knock is gone but still burping my driveway has a steep angle I'm going to burp today and see what happens ... no intermix with oil that's a good sign ... I have air pocket issues I'm going to cautiously burp today and shut off as soon as low pressure light comes on ... ran like a top this morning no noise just air pockets

Maybe it was detonation(heat related) not bearing knock ?

Ok everything seems ok burping in stages so not to leave car idle too long air bubbles coming out a lot of air bubbles.... temp stays normal at 175 ... went around the block temp was stable no noise no knocks drive smooth and like normal except no heat which leads me to believe there is a gnarled air pocket in heater core ... im burping at an angle ... in driveway gonna try to post pic to see if this is steep enough.... how long should this take? Any tips ? The dealer I work at is 50 miles away don't want to chance driving there for a tool ... may have to catch a ride to work tomm and bring the tool home I'm sure one of my Subaru techs have one

See my post 5 and read up Ahsai's coolant refill Posts. Until you use an Airlift you risk the same air pocket in the heater core.
If you elevate the rear higher and run the engine while monitoring everything you may burp it successfully according to others. But why take that risk ? A generic Airlift is $43 on FleaEBy.

Thanks for the heads up it's so appreciated I'm just glad at this point I didn't cook the engine ... reading the internet sometimes is like reading web md when you are sick ... you know how many times I thought I had bone cancer ??!! lol seriously tho I appreciate all the help ... do you think like a harbor freight might have something similar to air lift ? I'm pretty sure one of my techs at work has something like that .. the subies are boxers too although not mid engine ... in the future I am going to get one but need my car for work tomm...

Pack a gallon of coolant for your commute tomorrow !
Will you dare drive to work with the 'burp valve' open ?
Since you like flat 6 engines for commuting , Honda make one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQ_aNJ_y6Nc
& for fun
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJ9d0QnW5ao

Latest update did 30 mins of around town driving and everything worked this was after a huge air pocket surfaced and expelled from the over flow neck .... one more fill and drive tonight then that will decide if I drive or not ... the angle burp worked good ... I don't think my car is equipped with a burp valve since it's a 2007 ... but I will bring a gallon of coolant ... in case the air pocket shows itself ..... this has been an eye opening experience for sure next time I will be more prepared

Glad to hear that you're making progress and that the engine seems ok!

Manually bleeding the coolant system on these cars can be challenging. I struggled earlier in the month at the racetrack to get all of the air out of the system between race sessions.

I am not familiar with the cooling system of the 2007 . If it is the same as the older M96 , it find the black cap near the coolant fill point - with a silver colored wire bail on it. Pull /swing it up to vertical from the stowed/closed/horizontal .
You've been burping it w/o knowing/using this???
I may be wrong so urgently research this ,If a steam pocket develops while you commute , the pressure will vent somehow and the route that steam takes may be very inconvenient

Note that the bleeder valve is under the plastic plate which surrounds the oil and coolant filler caps.

From all I've read the 2007 doesn't have this bleeder valve I researched and my plastic surround is solid ... with that being said 2 days of burping and I think I got most of it out just did I drive on the freeway 85 mph for 30 mins and ran like a top .... gonna check it in a couple hours and see where the level is the level seems to be holding also .... I think I'm ok ....

Deleted!

I misread your post (thought it was a 97)... 2007 might not have a bleeder valve... (sorry!)

Jmaze:
I also have an '07 (Cayman) and my car does have a bleeder valve on top of the coolant tank, perhaps the Boxter has it on a different location..?

I am having the same exact problem as the OP. I am going to try to angle the car forward and refill. Only thing that scares me is the "engine oil pressure too low" warning. Any advice as to why that happens when changing coolant?

Dumb question -- but is there any chance coolant was added to the oil by mistake?

Drain the oil, or at least pull the oil filter and look to see if there is intermix.

If it overheated at all -- there is a freeze plug in the heads which if that goes -- instant intermix.

Mike

When adding coolant, you may want to use a coolant vacuum refill tool... like this one.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1518131315.jpg

Getting a coolant system as long and snaky as the boxster's burped well is a real PITA. I have to admit to throwing in the towel and letting my local dealer do my coolant refill and burp for this very reason. In the Bentley manual there is a very specific procedure to doing the burping, and I believe it is in Wayne's 101 Projects book as well. Sounds like you are getting it sorted, just be careful and keep an eye on it.

+1 ...... I bought a similar unit for about $60 CDN when I replaced my left side radiator due to a small leak. Refill was simple using the vacuum system and I had zero issues.

Might just need to get me one of those! Always a good reason to buy a new tool, right?:cheers: