Linking headlights to interior light

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Boxtaboy

Wait...footwell lighting was provided starting from 2001?....how come I don't have any??!!

Optional, IIRC.

[Boxtaboy]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Optional, IIRC.

Ah,...darn!

[Meir]

From the picture it’s hard to tell the diameter of the bypass pipe, but if the pipe is 1.5" you can go with the 2" valve and use a reducer. I personally don’t like the electric version of these valves, but it can be done with both.
2.0" Electric Exhaust Cutout Downpipe Kit E-Cut Catback Valve Manual System | eBay
If you look at the link I posted before, the guy shows in detail the hookup of the vacuum system and the electrical portion of the control.
Not too complicated.
I started with 2” -1.75” reducer so the bypass pipe is 1.75, and the valve is 2”.
2” is the smallest valve I could find. I’m currently straggling with the 180 degree U pipe that I will probably have to fabricate, or change the plan and go with 2”-1.5” reducer and 1.5" piping.
You can see more about project here:
General piping question
I still need to work on my fabrication and welding skills so I’m learning.

[geraintthomas]

Originally Posted by Boxtaboy

Wait...footwell lighting was provided starting from 2001?....how come I don't have any??!!

Footwells were an optional extra I put them in myself but door handle lights were there already.

[Meir]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Yeah, thanks to you, too.
I'm sure we confused some people, haha

Ger: I think your best bet is to follow Meir's lead. You can buy the timer circuit pre-made and once he posts wiring instructions, it will be simple. My only question is what would happen if you don't lock the car; how long does the "consumer switched off" circuit stay active if the car isn't locked? I've read 10 minutes, 2 hours, 10 hours and indefinitely. I've never checked.

The lights will go off after 20 seconds.
Didn't wait to see when the cluster turns off as its not relevant.

[geraintthomas]

Any news on this?

[geraintthomas]

I've obviously wired in my footwell lights to the parking light feed that comes out of the fuse box, and that's all fine. If I just tap my DRL's into that, it shouldn't be too much for it should it? They're low power LED's. I could use a relay that inverts the polarisation to use a switched ground, like mentioned on the previous page of this thread, and seeing it's just the DRL's that would be coming on along with the courtesy light, it shouldn't be too much for it to handle?

I'm not on about what I wanted before, as before I wanted ALLof the parking lights to come on with the courtesy light. I just mean the DRL's by themselves this time. Then I could wire them into the parking lights like normal as well.

Sound feasible? Using the feed by the fuse box?

[drewman75]

Hi Geraintthomas. Did you make any additional progress on this? I'm looking to do something similar with my courtesy lights, except rather than power on parking lights, I want to power on LED footwell lights and have them fade with the courtesy. Would be interested in knowing where you tapped the courtesy lights? Mine is a 987, and I have something labeled as an orientation light. Not sure how that may play into it. But anyway, was curious if you were able to tap from somewhere under the dash, or if you ended up going up the pillar.

[geraintthomas]

Not done anymore on this, still waiting for the others to reply