Engine Oil for 2001 986

[Slate 01]

How does Royal Purple rate?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Slate 01

Good to know, thanks.

Are there any particular brands you do suggest and weight? Like I said I have a 2001 Base with 43K miles and not replaced the IMS. I live in California and we have very mild winters (that is even a stretch, rarely hits freezing, and I actually rarely drive it in the winter, only on trips to the coast). Appreciate any help on this matter.

I would not go any lighter than a 5W-40, prefering a 10W-40 in warm climates due to improved film strenghts. I would also focus on ZDDP content.

There are several brands worth looking at, in cluding Joe Gibbs, Motul, Castrol, and even some of the Shell Rotella's.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Slate 01

How does Royal Purple rate?

Not a fan.....

[Slate 01]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

I would not go any lighter than a 5W-40, prefering a 10W-40 in warm climates due to improved film strenghts. I would also focus on ZDDP content.

There are several brands worth looking at, in cluding Joe Gibbs, Motul, Castrol, and even some of the Shell Rotella's.

JFP, I thought the Shell Rotella Full Synthetic is just for Diesel Engines, is that correct?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Slate 01

JFP, I thought the Shell Rotella Full Synthetic is just for Diesel Engines, is that correct?

Yes. Many diesel oils are very high temp/high shear resistant Group IV oils, with very high ZDDP levels because they do not use cats.

[Slate 01]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Yes. Many diesel oils are very high temp/high shear resistant Group IV oils, with very high ZDDP levels because they do not use cats.

Sorry for sounding like an idiot, but should I use Rotella in my 986 or not? Because I thought you were recommending that I use Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5/40W

Sorry to bug you but I am due for my next oil change and I just want to get it right.

Thank you

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Slate 01

Sorry for sounding like an idiot, but should I use Rotella in my 986 or not? Because I thought you were recommending that I use Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5/40W

Sorry to bug you but I am due for my next oil change and I just want to get it right.

Thank you

Yes, you can use the Rotella T6. You could also use Joe Gibbs DT40, which is another excellent choice.

[Slate 01]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Yes, you can use the Rotella T6. You could also use Joe Gibbs DT40, which is another excellent choice.

Thank you so much for the info

Just ordered my JG DT40 from Amazon.

[BoxsterSteve]

I have my supply of DT40 and NAPA Gold 1042 filter for my pre-hibernation oil change.
Found that the local NAPA Auto Parts can get the stuff for pretty much what I paid when I was in Bristol last summer.

[Flavor 987S]

Unless you do a 200-400 mile engine flush with Joe Gibbs BR30, you won't see any advantages of the DT40 till after your 2nd or 3rd oil change. DT40 just fights way too much with other oil's additive package. Especially Mobil's. The developer of this oil (Luke Speed of Joe Gibbs, and Jake Raby of Flat Six Innovations) will also tell you the same.

The best UOA's I've seen on my water cooled Porsches have come from Mobil 5W50. Second best was Red Line 5W40. I saw no better UOA's from DT40 than I did from Mobil 0W40. This is gleaned from over 100,000 miles and about 15 oil changes.

[Gelbster]

For the IMS geeks among you who follow ED the ex-Timken guy - he is in favor of an xW-50 oil because of load/shear/heat on the IMSB. It may be that the JGDT40 additive package offers the same benefits at a lower (40) number?
But then there is the cylinder bore scoring+cold climate issue to consider.http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/904760-scored-cylinder-failure-for-your-996-y-or-n-tell-us-yr-996-mk1-or-mk2.html
So the best answer may be climate-specific with the hot climate owners having the easiest choices -JGDT40 or 10w-50 or 5W-50 if you take the risk of abandoning the M96-optimized additive package in JGDT40.Foaming is another issue.... it gets complicated

[Smallblock454]

Originally Posted by Gelbster

... it gets complicated

–> just another oil thread on the internet.

Has somebody proven data on oil recommendations over 50.000 / 100.000 / 200.000 miles including
- climate conditions
- driving profile (street, daily driver, garage queen, short distance, racing…)
- additives
- viscosity
- HTHS
- oil change interval incl. oil filter
- oil filter quality
- fail rate
- cause for failure

I personally don't know somebody with that data.

And…

maybe short distances means a distance of 10 miles in the US, but 1 mile or less in Germany…

maybe racing means to drive more than 55 mp/h and a racing on a parking lot course in the US, but full speed over 1 hour on a german Autobahn or 10 laps on the Nürburgring.

maybe there are a lot of causes why these engines can fail. IMS is only one. Also it depends what year the engine is, because there are some technical differences over the years.

maybe ZDDP will help your engine. But shurely any amount of ZDDP will also harm your catalytic converters. Maybe this isn't that bad in the US/Canada because you have 4 catalytic converters (800 cells per cylinder bank) but maybe it's different in Germany/ROW, where you have 2 catalytic converters (400 cells per cylinder bank) to reach emission controls.

maybe some people have an personal interest in selling some products.

So a lot of maybe –****and i'm shure there is a lot more maybe…

Personally i go with:
- yearly oil and filter change (i drive less than 2.000 miles p.a.)
- full synthetic oil
- maximum HTHS
- viscosity that fits climate and driving profile
- no ZDDP or additional additives
- warming up the engine under low load for min. 10-15 miles
- using a standard thermostat
- keeping radiators clean and having an eye on water pump, thermostat…

Personal observation: since using a 5W oil there is only a minimal amount of engine oil between engine and transmission.

And: if the engine fails it fails.

Regards, Markus

[Slate 01]

Okay, now y'all are just screwing with me, LOL!

I'm going with the Gibbs 5/40 (since it is on the way from Amazon).

My car has 43K miles and has shown no signs of metal shavings in it's earl filters. I change earl every 3K and inspect filter meticulously. So far so good, fingers crossed. I don't run around town in the vehicle and only take it out for trips to Yosemite, Lake Tahoe and the coast with wifey. So short little bursts around town never occur, so the low miles on a 2001 are not an accurate indication of how the miles have been absorbed on this vehicle (the garage queen theory of IMS worries).

[Gelbster]

Slate,
Nobody who really knows the M96 mechanically will ever have a word of criticism for you using JGDT40.

[Slate 01]

I do appreciate the interest and advice that I have received from everyone.

[.Jack.]

What's the oil change interval for DT40?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by .Jack.

What's the oil change interval for DT40?

5,000 miles

[Slate 01]

JG is in the house. And so is JD

[Slate 01]

I pulled this from Rennlist, a post by Jake Raby. Maybe just hype but I don't think so:

It has my name right on the label.. Its used in all of our engines and we use nothing else.

I never wanted it released to the public, but it was in March of 2012, before that we developed and hoarded it (not advertised) for our engines. Lake Speed from JGR, Charles Navarro of LN and I have developed this oil from scratch ONLY based upon the M96 engine as our test subject.

I have never seen a UOA from the DT40 with less than 1250PPM, I have hundreds of UOAs from our engines using this oil in my ledger.
__________________
Jake Raby
Flat 6 Innovations
Inventor of the IMS Solution
US Patent # 8,992,089 B2


So if this earl was developed based upon the M96 engine, I have to feel pretty good about using this earl in my Boxster

[BlackBox01]

Okay, exactly what brand and weight of oil are we talking about here?