EDIT: Yes, I've checked the fuse... The box is working, most of the functionality on the immobilizer side (the smaller plug) is still there, and the rest of the stuff controlled by the bigger plug seems to be working. That's my headache right now. There was corrosion on pin#4 (immobilizer control)

Here's today's news.. More to come tomorrow.

Yeah... The weird thing is when I had some time today (had very little.. hopefully sunday will be better) ... I went over the board again (noticed some corrosion on the PCB I hadn't previously noticed) ... The car still wouldn't unlock the trunks (I now have the cable hanging out of the front so no more frunk access loss)

To the point.. I could hear what sounded like a relay click in the trunk when I tried to start the car this time (remember, still no actual unlock on the trunk cables.. pretty sure immobilizer locks those)


I don't believe I was hearing this audible click before (both in the key switch and in the rear of the car) but still, no start.


I am really going to try to go after it tomorrow. I am back to the university on Monday with 21 credit hours (and I work in a lab) :ah::ah::ah::ah::ah::ah:


I've never had issue with this car. This sucks. Hopefully I can fix it without spending a ton of cash. I have worked on cars for most of my life, and some pretty high-profile performance related cars at that... but I am at a new house and don't really have the amenities I am used to having when doing automotive surgery, and cannot currently even get the thing into the garage.

This literally could not have happened at a worse time. (My civic just toasted an alternator and I am replacing the radiator tomorrow as well, noticed a small leak) ... so I am without a car until something gets fixed. I can hoof it to classes, but my research lab is a 30 minute drive away, and my work is time-sensitive.. This whole situation shook me real good. I just wish this damn thing was easy to bypass. If someone really wanted to steal it, they'd just drag it away on a truck anyways.

One thing I will tell people from here-on-out is their first mod should be to put a couple extra drain holes in the cabin... should be the first mod to these cars, especially below this computer... What the hell were they thinking putting something so sensitive in a literal BOWL with no drainage underneath the seat? (oh, and i'd mention that drilling the holes is in no way an excuse to not keep the normal ones cleaned out... but they can be overwhelmed, and water apparently will find it's way into the cabin regardless of what measures you take short of keeping a cover on the car or in the garage. (I am now convinced my garage roof will somehow start leaking the second i park this car in it) :D:dance:


It seems like I'm close, but really need to be thorough and just hope it decides to cooperate. I don't think this thing is actually BROKEN BROKEN... It seems like these cars just have a million reasons to not want to start.

My buddy has a durametric with one vin left on it. I'm hoping he might be able to stop by tomorrow.


Thank you to those who keep trying to help, it's appreciated more than you know. I will follow up tomorrow.

Hmm... I'll try to trace it tomorrow. Do you have any experience with this diagnosis?

One other thing i noticed... my steering wheel doesn't lock.

So the three problems No steering lock, no start, no frunk/trunk unlock (keyfob opens rear.. using cable to open front)

One thing i noticed is i think the transponder coil is actually working now. it makes an audible click in the dash and in the rear of the car when i turn the key... I do not believe it previously was giving me that much.


I was really tired when I was working on it today, should have put a meter on the battery to make sure it wasn't draining again (there has been some parasitic drain during this.. i'm guessing when the alarm kept chirping)

Hi hazard
Check this thread for opening the front trunk. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/62706-how-open-hood-when-battery-good.html
I have the same problem with mine I had about 10 to 15 litres of water under the front seat from blocked drains. My board was like yours and had corrosion on it like yours. I cleaned it with alcohol and it still had the same problem but mine would start but key buttons would not work. So I removed the seat again removed the board and sent it out to a company here close to Ottawa and I received it yesterday. I will try to install it today if it can stop raining and will let you know if it works.

For reference, this eBay auction has a good picture of that module:
1998 Porsche Boxster Steering Column with Ignition Switch and Key | eBay

What I do know is that the interrogation to the transponder in your key passes through that module. That connection is required for the car to start.

a little corrosion on one of those connectors under the seat may still be the problem. I had to replace the entire connector on one of my cars, too much corrosion.

I hope all of this effort resolves the issue. If not and you go to getting a new unit, get with Woody on here for used parts and also get the drivers door lock so it will match the new key too.

Best of luck, sir! That is a lot of water! We've been getting a LOT of rain lately here in ohio from the coastal storms in the gulf moving up north...


I was able to get access to the frunk two days ago. i now have the cable hanging out of the front so i can open it at will while still being able to close it.

@78F350
My ignition switch is giving he "click" in a couple places when i turn it.. i think pin #4 on the unit might still be having issues.. I am goign to go over the plugs again more thoroughly in a few.

it seems like it's getting all the way to "just need the go-ahead" to start and that signal isn't getting there. I think pin 4 (immobilizer control) has something to do with it.. but just a hypothesis at this point.

If it is not solved today I am going to phone a friend for a durametric call. I don't want to use up his last VIN slot on his unit, so I'm trying to eliminate everything i can think of before doing that much.

Is a Durametric going to be of any help though?

I would hope that it might show some faults.


Going to replace the ignition switch Monday... I think I pushed it past its limits doing the key jiggle for hours over the past few days... key got stuck a few times. Best to get it out of the way, though I don't think this is the cause (hey, one can hope, though..)

I have a Durametric, I will plug it on later and see what it tells you.

Got it started!


Somewhere in between charging the battery, disconnecting and reconnecting multiple times, trying to start the car, and cleaning up the wiring multiple times, I must have blown fuse D1

It was not blown yesterday. Replaced it, car fired right up and ran like hot dog**************** for a while. Drove it for about 10 miles with varying rates of cruising/partial throttle/flogging and eventually the whole powerband came back. car feels fast for some reason (probably because it's not 90 degrees with 90% humidity for the first time in a few weeks)


Now that I'm here, any clue how to get the trunk/frunk levers to start behaving again? I don't want to have to keep a cable dangling around for every time i want to get into the front.

I can live with having a running car for the time being :D :dance::dance::dance::dance:

:cheers:

I'm letting it idle for a little bit... then a much needed checking of all the drain holes and then to the car wash.. poor car looks like poo right now, but she's runnin!

What year is your car?
Can you open the fuel door?