Does the starter motor has a relay

[Gilles]

Before I replace the ignition switch I would like to eliminate the possibility of having a faulty relay (if I have one).

I removed the starter motor and it was ok, the ground by the firewall is tight..
.
Thank you in advance

[Smallblock454]

Hi Gilles,

just think what would happen if your starter wouldn't have an relay and you would apply 40 ampere to your pour little ignition switch with that tiny wiring when starting your car.

Regards, Markus

[particlewave]

Yes, it has a relay.

Relay #7 in the rear trunk relay panel.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Yes, it has a relay.

Relay #7 in the rear trunk relay panel.

Particlewave, Thank you!

I never seen a relay box on the rear trunk (Cayman), but I know that underneath the rear firewall cover lives the engine ECU, could the relay box be on the same area?

Yesterday, a friend with much more mechanical experience than me, mentioned that the electrical problem I am having could be caused by a bad relay, that could be sticking and for this reason as soon as you try to start the car you hear a loud click on the back, and the lights dash and all everything goes dark (no power anywhere) until you reconnect the battery again.

Marcus, I am sorry but I am electrically challenged, and have a very difficult time diagnosing electrical issues… and being honest, this time I am terrified to damage something else

[Smallblock454]

OK, Gilles,

what car and MY do you have? It's a 987 Cayman? Did you check your owners manual for infos about fuses and relay boxes?

Maybe this will help: Porsche Workshop Manuals > Boxster S (987) F6-3.2L (2005) > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information > Locations

Regards, Markus

[particlewave]

Gilles, you tricked me.

You were supposed to get your ignition switch yesterday...what happened with that?
The relay panel is near the ECU/DME.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Gilles, you tricked me.

You were supposed to get your ignition switch yesterday...what happened with that?
The relay panel is near the ECU/DME.

Particlewave,

No, unfortunately after replacing the switch with the new one the same results:

Connect the battery, and everything gets powered, radio, lights windows, etc., But, when you try to start the engine, you only get a clacking (mechanical) noise from the engine's area and you no longer have any power, like not even having a battery...

Until you disconnect/connect the terminal on the battery and all the electrically powered components are ok...

I already removed the starter, checked the cable connections with the exception of the one on the "splitter Y" in front of the engine (cannot find it), we tested all of the relays except one with an ohm meter that my neighbor kindly showed how to use

I am running out of options or ideas, and with the tail between the legs (broken ego)... I may have to tow it to a specialist..

Thank you all to provided suggestions, it's greatly appreciated

[Gilles]

the only thing left to check is the power distributor, that according to the repair shop is on the passenger side footwell are (which I can't locate yet)

[particlewave]

The clack is the solenoid/bendix being actuated. That same action makes a contact within the starter to tell it to start spinning.

If the motor coils are toast, you can get the symptoms you describe. Did you fully test the starter to make sure that it is activating the solenoid and spinning the motor?

Edit: didn't your engine die while driving before the symptoms started? That would point to something aside from the starter.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by particlewave

The clack is the solenoid/bendix being actuated. That same action makes a contact within the starter to tell it to start spinning.

If the motor coils are toast, you can get the symptoms you describe. Did you fully test the starter to make sure that it is activating the solenoid and spinning the motor?

Edit: didn't your engine die while driving before the symptoms started? That would point to something aside from the starter.

Actually I took the starter to a specialized alternator/starter repir shop because they had one unit in stock but check it and turned ot to be ok, they told me that with 90k miles it will be a good idea to repair/refresh, but they told me that my problem was somewhere else.

The car was runing just fine and I stall it leaving a shoping center, no symptoms or noises whatsoever.

Right now, the starter does not even turn the engine...

[particlewave]

Sent you the info for locating the current distributor...

Still sounds like a bad main connection to me. Have you had a close look at the battery terminals and post clamps to make sure they are nice and shiny, with no corrosion or oxidation?
I'm sure you have...

Have turned the crankshaft to be sure that the engine isn't seized?

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Sent you the info for locating the current distributor...

Have turned the crankshaft to be sure that the engine isn't seized?

Actually, I was telling my wife that this could be a possibility.....

I will turn it by the nut on the front pulley.

[911monty]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Actually, I was telling my wife that this could be a possibility.....

I will turn it by the nut on the front pulley.

Gilles; DANGER WILL ROBINSON Only use the crank bolt once you have removed all the spark plugs...I'm pretty sure the bolt will turn before the engine does.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by 911monty

[/COLOR]


Gilles; DANGER WILL ROBINSON Only use the crank bolt once you have removed all the spark plugs...I'm pretty sure the bolt will turn before the engine does.

Actually, the engine does turn pretty smooth, the only Y split that I found was on the top front part of the engine and checked that the 17mm nut be tight, the connector looks pretty clean.

A member of the Cayman site mentioned that according to his dealer service dept. that loose connectors (at the computer end) are common on the Cayman and Boxter, but here you don't hear much.

I am trying to find a lay out of the main wire harness, so I can try to follow at with a multimeter.

PS: I had turned different engines by the crank pulley (carefully and slowly) and never had an issue

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Gilles

the only thing left to check is the power distributor, that according to the repair shop is on the passenger side footwell are (which I can't locate yet)

Particlewave, this is the "power distributor" that I was trying to find, it is located high on the passenger footwell, the manual tells you to pull it down into the floor (slides down) but this box is firmly secured up there... lol

Just need to find is out how to lower this box, so I can check the fuses inside.
But is starting to rain so this will continue tomorrow as I don't want to have the windows closed to keep the interior dry.

Thank you!