Clutch replacement tool checklist

[san rensho]

I'm diving into changing the clutch this weekend so what are the special tools I will need other than the triplesquare for removing that one pesky tranny to engine bolt, a flywheel lock tool and IMSB replacement tools?

[BoxsterSteve]

You seem to have the basics covered.

Vital for stress breaks:



Brand not as important as quantity.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by san rensho

I'm diving into changing the clutch this weekend so what are the special tools I will need other than the triplesquare for removing that one pesky tranny to engine bolt, a flywheel lock tool and IMSB replacement tools?

1. Go to Lowes and get two overly long bolts of the same size as two of the outside bell housing bolts, but about twice as long. Cut the heads off to make "guides" to assist during reinstallation.
2. Look up a company called Kingsborne Wire Works; for $10 they will sell you the same clutch disc alignment tool Porsche sells for about $50.
3. Either locate the proper RMS installation tool (sells for about $600, so try to borrow or rent one), or make your own out of some PVC pipe and other bits.

[san rensho]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

1. Go to Lowes and get two overly long bolts of the same size as two of the outside bell housing bolts, but about twice as long. Cut the heads off to make "guides" to assist during reinstallation.
2. Look up a company called Kingsborne Wire Works; for $10 they will sell you the same clutch disc alignment tool Porsche sells for about $50.
3. Either locate the proper RMS installation tool (sells for about $600, so try to borrow or rent one), or make your own out of some PVC pipe and other bits.

Thanks

So the plastic alignment tool that comes with the clutch pack is no good?

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

1. Go to Lowes and get two overly long bolts of the same size as two of the outside bell housing bolts, but about twice as long. Cut the heads off to make "guides" to assist during reinstallation.
   

If you take the bolt to the section that cuts and sells chain the can use the chain link cutting tool to cut the heads off the bolts for you.

[san rensho]

Guys

Which one of these is the triplesquare I need.

Sears.com

Sears.com

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by san rensho

Thanks

So the plastic alignment tool that comes with the clutch pack is no good?

If you get one with the clutch it will be fine, but not all come with them.

[specboxCO]

Originally Posted by san rensho

Guys

Which one of these is the triplesquare I need.

Sears.com

Sears.com

Unlikely either of those will work in their current form. The triple square bolt is tricky to get to, and getting a ratchet and socket to it is nearly impossible. I use a cut off hex bodied triple square bit with a wrench to get that bolt out. Then I throw it away and leave that hole empty, for ease of change at the track.

Buy the first link and be prepared to cut it down.

[san rensho]

And,

Any opinions on this clutch kit.

Porsche Boxster Clutch Kit 5 Pc Set - Original EPS: Transmission and Clutch &amp Clutch Kits

[epapp]

Jesus, that is cheap. When I did mine, recommended solely because it is hard and expensive to change again, was a Sachs clutch. Its ~$700 but you know without a doubt you won't be servicing it again in 2000 miles because the clutch disc ripped apart or broke.

[Meir]

Hi San.
i have all the tools you will need for the job.
you are more then welcome to come and pick it up.

[amagalla]

I'd stick with the SACHS kit that came on the car. RockAuto has them pretty cheap and it comes with the tool, and the bearings.

Tony

[san rensho]

Originally Posted by Meir

Hi San.
i have all the tools you will need for the job.
you are more then welcome to come and pick it up.

Meir

Thanks so much for the offer. I was just about to post if someone could lend me/rent me the tools and you beat me to it. A true gentleman.

The plan is to get the trans out this weekend and assess the situation, so I may take you up on the offer next week.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by amagalla

I'd stick with the SACHS kit that came on the car. RockAuto has them pretty cheap and it comes with the tool, and the bearings.

Tony

San, I bought a Sachs Performance Clutch Kit (disc and pressure plate) directly from Sachs and now with the Euro vs USD almost equal it came almost half price that the same ones offered on the USA even with the $45 shipping charges.

PLMK if you want the link for Sachs

[Meir]

Originally Posted by san rensho

Meir

Thanks so much for the offer. I was just about to post if someone could lend me/rent me the tools and you beat me to it. A true gentleman.

The plan is to get the trans out this weekend and assess the situation, so I may take you up on the offer next week.

No problem.
I will send you a PM with my phone number.
If you want, you can even come by tomorrow. I have the 10m triple square cut to size and a special 10 mm long wrench that makes that annoying screw easy to get out.
I can also lend you a transmission jack, RMS and IMS tools if you plan on doing that.
I have done this project three times so I can give you some pointers if you like.
Give me a call any time.

[san rensho]

A couple of questions.

Whats the final word on the depth of the RMS. I'll be installing it with the very expensive Porsche factory tool (thank you Meir) so I believe that will install the seal to the right depth.

Whats the final word on the degree torque of the flywheel bolts. 90 degrees or 120?

Thanks all.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by san rensho

A couple of questions.

Whats the final word on the depth of the RMS. I'll be installing it with the very expensive Porsche factory tool (thank you Meir) so I believe that will install the seal to the right depth.

Whats the final word on the degree torque of the flywheel bolts. 90 degrees or 120?

Thanks all.

If you are using the correct factory tool (9699 and the 9699/2 insert guide), you do not have to worry about the correct depth, the tool will set it to 13MM (measured from the crankshaft flywheel mating face) automatically.



Flywheel bolts are torqued to 19 ft. lb. plus 120 degrees.

[san rensho]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

If you are using the correct factory tool (9699 and the 9699/2 insert guide), you do not have to worry about the correct depth, the tool will set it to 13MM (measured from the crankshaft flywheel mating face) automatically.

Flywheel bolts are torqued to 19 ft. lb. plus 120 degrees.

That was quick! Thanks.

[Gelbster]

There may be little twist to your question. It depends if the c/s is marked by the old seal. If the engine is a total rebuild,it is not an issue .
You don't want the new seal to be positioned exactly where the old one was(and was leaking).The new seal needs an unworn,smooth c/s surface to seal on.
Then there is the sealant/no sealant issue.The latest PU seal is no+sealant.
JFP is the expert on this whole subject.
Research diy,PVC coupling for inserting the seal if your fabrication skills are very good ?
Per JFP.Get the correct 5/6 speed tool!
http://www.clutchtools.com/index.php?productID=40066
http://www.clutchtools.com/index.php?productID=40065

[DennisAN]

If I'm not too late...

The $300 LUK clutch kit for the 2.7l is the SAME as a Sachs kit....LUK just boxes up Sachs parts.

I got mine from RockAuto for $300 shipped with their discount code. The Sachs parts bear the same part numbers as the OEM ones removed from my 2000 base 986. It also has the OEM bearing mfgs. plus the alignment tool and pack of grease.