Changed Motor Mount @ 95k

[rick3000]

The creeper has been my number one best tool for this service, and I almost didn't buy one. I thought cardboard would be fine, but my dad said I would regret not having one. He was right, it has made everything that much easier. Also, there is no reason to worry about using jack stands. I purchased some Esco's, and they have given me way more confidence than my old HF stands. The car hasn't moved a millimeter, even when I was battling the engine carrier bolts.

I hit the center of the old mount out in two hits, then I got a small hacksaw in there. Hammering the old mount out, wasn't what I was expecting when servicing my precision german car.

Also, Pelican Parts sells the insert only for $34. However, make sure you have someone who can press it in/out first, because if they charge you like they did to hancock1701, maybe buying the entire assembly makes more sense.

Hoping my original Q's didn't get lost in my original lengthy post:

I'm curious what people's thoughts are on using locktite, torquing the studs, and the direction of the rubber/foam stops?

[jakeru]

I just used the original rubber side disc-like shaped pieces (well, after cleaning them up a bit) - they were in good shape and crammed onto the new 987 mount protrusions just fine. So no foam pieces in on my mount install.

Immediately after I installed the front mount, and for probably a couple days, I marveled at how smooth the clutch worked and all. Before there was a shutter/shaking, especially noticeable when engine was cold. Now (seems after my wife drove it) it's come back some.

I'm wonders if perhaps the alignment of the mount isn't as good as it could be, and if it settled a bit somehow. Any thoughts on how to align the mount to the body? There was substantial adjustment where the four nuts/studs clamp the bracket to the body. I seem to remember set letting it settle he it wanted to, and tightening it up. It was nowhere close to how the bracket set on the original mount.

I did get the mount pressed in the right side up (like it is on the 987 mount assembly).

[911monty]

Originally Posted by jakeru

I just used the original rubber side disc-like shaped pieces (well, after cleaning them up a bit) - they were in good shape and crammed onto the new 987 mount protrusions just fine. So no foam pieces in on my mount install.

Immediately after I installed the front mount, and for probably a couple days, I marveled at how smooth the clutch worked and all. Before there was a shutter/shaking, especially noticeable when engine was cold. Now (seems after my wife drove it) it's come back some.

I'm wonders if perhaps the alignment of the mount isn't as good as it could be, and if it settled a bit somehow. Any thoughts on how to align the mount to the body? There was substantial adjustment where the four nuts/studs clamp the bracket to the body. I seem to remember set letting it settle he it wanted to, and tightening it up. It was nowhere close to how the bracket set on the original mount.

I did get the mount pressed in the right side up (like it is on the 987 mount assembly).

I also noticed the amount of adjustability while installing my mount, so what I thought was when the car was built maybe they used some method to align the engine to the body?? I know expecting a lot... SO I just tightened the nuts on the original score marks on the brace.

[hancock1701]

Originally Posted by rick3000

Also, Pelican Parts sells the insert only for $34. However, make sure you have someone who can press it in/out first, because if they charge you like they did to hancock1701, maybe buying the entire assembly makes more sense.

Suncoast Parts has the whole assembly for $140, and I didn't know about it. If I had, I would've gone with the whole thing too. But in my case, I went down to Sears Auto Center and asked them if they could press it in for me, they said yes, should be about $30. Great! When I got the thing out and took it down to them, they told me they didn't have any adapter big enough to press it in. Then I tried Pepboys, press wasn't woriking. Tried O'reilly, they could, but would have to send it out, takes about a day.

So yeah, the whole assembly would be a safer and less annoying approach if you don't know anyone with a press.

Oh, and to one of your questions, I couldn't get my torque wrench in there, so I got everything to snug, and then add another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The car still hasn't fallen apart yet.

[jakeru]

Torquing properly without getting a torque wrench onto a fastener is not a problem if you have a similar fastener you can get a torque wrench onto. Then after using the torque wrench, use a hand wrench on the torqued fastener to get a sense of how much force you need to press with your hand on the hand wrench to make the torqued fastener move (just a little bit), and immediately duplicate that force on your difficult-to-reach fastener.

As I recall, all the fasteners for the entire motor mount job called for the same torque setting so it's very easy to apply this technique to torque everything properly.